| Author | Message | ||
     Sparky |
Ya, mine rolled off the stand while idling too. Now I park it with the bars full left. The bike's more stable that way. When mine fell the bars were turned full right. In that position it doesn't take much force to move the bike forward. Maybe wheel chocks're the answer?  Sparky | ||
| Jrh |
I let my M2 sit + idle for a good 3 minutes hoping it would fall over but it just wouldnt,think somethings WRONG with it?Does Buell make a "fallover"kit that might help??? | ||
| Blake |
Riglar,  Real nice... Using a discussion board sponsored in large part by Sport Twin to try to undercut their very reasonable prices. Think of doing business with our sponsors as helping to keep our forum going, cause I guarantee that without our sponsors, this board would be no more. jrh, Whoa! You better have that warranteed asap!  | ||
| X1glider |
Perhaps a membership fee is in order to keep the site running and take some of the burden off of the sponsors. I'm sure that with the number of members, even 1 buck a year might help some. Free things are great and I choose to use the T3 internet at work instead of paying 44 bucks a month for a cable modem at home. I'm not patient enough to use a 56k modem anymore, especially since I was never able to get more than 28k and I'm home long enough to shower and sleep, so $44/month would be a wate of money. I have no idea what it costs to run a web site but I doubt the profit from the $1700 I spent with Sport Twin and ASB makes much of a dent. I'd spend a buck. Sure, $1 sounds like I'm a cheap ass but my thought is that a whole bunch of posters and especially lurkers might disappear if it was more. Still waiting for those www.badweatherbikers.com stickers that were discussed in the past but never transpired. I seem to remember hearing that profits from those would go to the site. Besides the X1 race bike is looking kinda plain. | ||
| Two_Buells |
I bought my seat from Sport Twin. and I'm looking forward to buying more stuff from them | ||
| Darthane |
Well, I haven't gotten the dyno sheet scanned yet (when I will I'll post it in the Knowledge Vault) but here're the numbers. My XB9R with Pro Series race kit pulled 82.7HP and 66.2FT/LBS. The curve on it is exactly what's shown on the Buell website. Pulls hard at 2500, and tapers off, then LEAPS up at about 5000. Max torque was at about 5500RPMS. For reference, my buddie's X1 with Vance and Hines, Race ECM, and a Forcewinder pulled 86.7HP and 74.2FT/LBS. And I whupped his ass at Milan dragway later in the day, but I think I'll post that disaster story in the Tale section. Out of 7 bikes in our group, 3 went down with minor to serious problems (not mine, thank God!). Two of them couldn't drive home, and the third required a bit of work. Nothing like 43% casualties! Bryan | ||
| Darthane |
 I'm in the foreground on my 'bolt, that's my friend on his X1 on the far side. To be fair, he ended up with, shall I say, minor mechanical difficulties, but you'll have to read the Tail section post for details on that. | ||
| Darthane |
Crap...can't edit it now. The story is under Dragway Disasters here in the Quick Board. The Tale Section looks to be more for big BRAG events, so I'll leave it out of there. And just to clarify, that picture above of me and the X1 was BEFORE his bike started acting up - it's our first run together. Hehe... Bryan | ||
| Mitchelob |
Regarding the high number of reported tip-overs due to the XB9R sidestand. My local dealer has 3 XB's on the showroom floor. 2 have been there for awhile and after looking at them, I can see how they could easily fall. The one that they just received though has a stand that is noticeably different(10-15 degrees further forward). Perhaps this has been fixed by the factory? | ||
| Darthane |
Tip overs - As noted before, and bearing repeating - as long as the wheel is cranked over left (into the 'locking' position), mine is quite stable, even at idle. Reading all the tip-overs made me a bit nervous, so I've done some 'testing', parking it at a variety of angles on various grades. Even turned on and idling, as long as the wheel is turned left it's never started to tip. I don't, however, tempt fate and leave it alone for long periods of time sitting at idle.  Bryan | ||
| Mitchelob |
Once, in 30+ years, I have had a bike fall off it's sidestand while idling. Fortunately the bike never hit the ground, unfortunately my truck door caught it doing $600 in damage. This sucks! Having a new XB hit the grond I'm sure really sucks! Will Buell be offering a warranty fix for the bikes currently in service that have this potential problem? I'm betting they will. If they have indeed fixed this problem on units currently in production, then the number of bikes in service in need of this fix should be quite small in comparision to the Showa shock fiasco. (It looks as if fixing this at home would be simple enough just in case Buell doesn't make the fix for you, I would wait to hear the official word from BMC before taking a grinder to the stop though) Until then, there seems to be some good advice offered here in preventing a tip over. My M750 that won't start or run unless the sidestand is up has me in the habit of never starting the engine unless I'm astride the bike. Should I purchase another Buell (XB9S is looking real good to me!!) I'm sure the engine will never have spark meet petrol unless my arse is square in the saddle... | ||
| Sarodude |
FWIW, I have it on questionable authority that Buell is looking at the XB kick(over)stand problem and a possible redesign of somethingorother. Ask no questions as I have no answers. -Saro | ||
| Mikep |
Re: Tipovers, I read a few reports, and simply went out to my XB and filed away on the side stand stop until I was happy. I also do not leave the thing idle while on the side stand. mikep | ||
| X1glider |
It's abosolutely ridiculous to have a bike fall over when the sidestand is down and the bike is running. How are we supposed to let the bike warm up before we take off to wherever. They should fix this problem. My morning ritual is start the bike to warm up, get a cup of coffee, do the 3 S's, suit up, go. I quit counting but I think it is 4 people on this board that have had this problem. | ||
| Mikej |
"It's abosolutely ridiculous..." Some would say it's absolutely rediculous to leave a running bike unattended. 'course that depends on your neighborhood I guess. My 3 S's take a might bit longer than it takes the bike to warm up, add in a cup of coffee and getting dressed and it's way past 30 minutes. In anything but winter in Wisconsin (October to May is sometimes winter here) from start-up to warmed up should be less than three minutes. Full tilt boogie riding may take an additional 10 minutes warm-up ride to get the gears and lube warmed up as well as the tires. | ||
| Davegess |
I had a suzuki 400 bandit that would not roll off the stand but would go over on the other side with only a very slight push. I never left it on the stand in my garage, I always used teh center stand. My wife refused to ride it until I ground some of the stand off. My XB seems fine with the wheel turned left but it is very marginal with the wheel straight ahead and down right scary with the wheel cocked right. I have been leaving it in gear. | ||
| Mikep |
How to warm up ICE: Start. Idle for ~30 seconds. Ride or drive gently for ~1 mile. Done. mikep J | ||
| Blake |
"How are we supposed to let the bike warm up before we take off to wherever." Dude, you live in Houston! Your bikes are warmed up before you even put key to ignition.  Besides, what benefit does it provide to "warm up" a modern fuel injected engine? I know, you are going to pass on the myth about not taking off until the heads are warm to the touch. I think that is an old shovel-head trick. All that said, a bike should NOT fall over if left idling on the stand. Can someone take a picture of the stop that needs filing to solve the problem? | ||
| Two_Buells |
In winter I let my bike idle for about 30 seconds and take off. I do wait a few miles before I drop the hammer...... | ||
| Chainsaw |
Rotating the engine down on an XB... Has anyone ever done this? I'm thinking about jet-coating my exhaust. Service Manual says the engine has to be rotated down to reach the rear-most header bolt. Does anyone know how much time and effort is really involved in this? I'm a reasonably competent shade-tree mechanic (I have rebuilt a 350 truck motor and one jet-ski motor) but I lean towards the lazy side (if it ain't broke...) Someone please tell me how easy it really is! | ||
| Blake |
As I understand it, the engine needs to be dropped to change the spark plugs. Seems then like that operation should be covered in the owner's manual. | ||
| Bud |
What is the problem with the fitting off the racecan on an XB?? I don’t have the manual , but it seems straight fore ward to mount it?? The idler is in the way, yes , but can’t you overcome this problem white some flex tools?? Otherwise get the tension off by lower the schok pre-tension and removing the schok. While it’s hanging in straps off course. It seems when you lower the bike far enough the tension should go off ?? Otherwise there should be a good chance that you can remove one stud form the tensioner bracket and swing it away ?? Gr. bud | ||
| Two_Buells |
pull the rear axle 1/8 of the way out and the wheel will move forward, do not remove wheel, belt tension will loosen enough to remove the idle pulley assy. of course the bike should be off the ground with a swingarm stand or hanging from some straps | ||
| Chainsaw |
Blake: The manual does cover the process, I'm asking if any of my peers here have accomplished it, and what trouble or advise they might have. The engine does NOT need to be rotated down to get the rear plug. It requires a 6" extention and a flexible joint, and the manual advises the use of a small piece of fuel hose to aid in the initial hand threading of the replacement plug. | ||
| Mikej |
"As I understand it, the engine needs to be dropped to change the spark plugs. Seems then like that operation should be covered in the owner's manual." I thought an anony came on and said the plugs were accessable from the airbox. I could be wrong. | ||
| Darthane |
Bud, The race kit came with instructions for mounting the muffler, but I didn't pay the slightest bit of attention to them (I used the service manual), so I'm not sure how good they are. The manual says to take the idler pulley off. No, you can't swing it out of the way. The nuts must be removed and the whole pulley slides off the bolts. Mine was machined wrong and took me a half hour to work it back and forth off the bolts. Hopefully it's just mine and not a Firebolt-wide problem. You can probably get at the rear clamps with some flex tools without removing the pulley, but getting them back on again would be a nightmare. It occurred to me (after I'd reinstalled it, of course) that you may be able to simply put the clamps on the other way and avoid the whole mess in the future (nuts on the left side of the bike). Lowering the bike will not remove belt tension on the pulley. Remember, the pulley is there to All told, doing it by the book, if my idler pulley weren't machined wrong, it's probably an hour process to remove the old one and install the new one and torque everything down. Not that difficult, really. Bryan | ||
| Mikej |
I haven't looked that closely at the production one, does the idler pulley plate not have a square recess for a wrench in it to help relieve tension on the pulley bolts to aid in removal. Seemed pretty slick on the prototype version. Might be something for the aftermarket folks to look at making . | ||
| Bud |
Bryan, Thanks fore the input, I hope the kit arrives here end of the week, then I’ll will have a go with it this weekend If I can get the hose clamp off with a flex joint I’ll let you now, I’ll mount it back-on with the nuts on the left-side Mikej, It’s a fixed idler pulley ,there is no spring tension on the thing so a square hole in the brace is useless. Gr, bud | ||
| Mikej |
Bud, The hole was to allow you to pivot the plate around the front bolt and get the rear bolt into place against the tension of the belt torque. Fixed plate on the prototypes as well, just made for a nice assembly aid, and you didn't need to loosen the rear axle shaft. This is from memory of what was shown and said during the tour last summer. Now if someone would come out with a single-sided swingarm, coupled with a quick-change pulley assembly and a variety of pre-calculated belt lengths, one could sort of come up with a competitive alternative (if you ignore the cost) to a chain drive conversion. Pivot the idler pulley, remove two retainer screws from the front pulley, remove 6-8 retainer bolts from the rear pulley, slip off the belt and pulleys, slip on the alternate gearing pulleys and belt, snug up all the bolts, swing up the idler and snug it down with the bolts, go race/ride with the new final drive ratio. Probably just a daydream though, and probably cost prohibitive. But if somebody does it I want a cut of the action. | ||
| X1glider |
The last time I talked to Henry Duga, he said they are working on a chain drive conversion to sell to us self financed racers. It appears a new casting needed to be made. Then there was the issue of a new chain tensioner with a sprocket instead of a pulley and some spacers and such. All I know is, it won't be cheap. I like your idea of quick change pulleys Mike. |
