| Author | Message | ||
     Scitz |
I replacing my header and I'm going through the manual to lower the engine but it doesn't really say if you need to remove the throttle cables. Has anyone that has done this before know if you have to remove the throttle cables? | ||
| Buellish0 |
dont have to remove but remove bolts where it is attatched at front of motor AND BE VERY CAREFUL OF CLEARENCE WHEN U TURN MOTOR both at top (carb & front) | ||
| Scitz |
got it, thanks. | ||
| Slaughter |
Yeah - once you've done it, it's much less scary. Unclamp the clutch cable, the intake horn can stay in place, it's OK to let it press up against the frame a little. You can leave everything else in place - just lower it slowly and keep checking to make sure nothing is being pulled or pinched. Pretty easy. | ||
| M1combat |
I needed to loosen the coil. I left the clutch connected, but loosened. Once you lower the engine a little ways, you can pull the clutch cable around the side of the primary case and it'll be fine there. While your in there... It may be wise to remove the oil fittings that are just behind the header collector and re-tape them w/ teflon tape. Basically... What Steve said. Once you've done it, it isn't so bad  . | ||
| Scitz |
I removed the clutch cable by using the adjuster to use all the slack and remove the cable from the handle. I went ahead and removed the intake horn and ignition coil. Wasn't really a hard job just takes time and patience. Thanks for the advice on taping the oil lines. Installing my ceramic stock header tonight and hopefully get it running. I’m going from bone stock to race filter, race muffler, ceramic header, and PowerCommander. I’m going to use the TechnoResearch software to dial in the PCIII. Hopefully I can get it tuned but if not there is a Dynojet Tuner in the area I may have to check with. I’m just excited to see if it makes a big difference or not. |
