| Author | Message | ||
     Dwolk |
Got some new spark plugs at the advice of my dealer, the hotter plugs would reduce some minor low-end hesitation on my new 2004 Lightning 12XBs (two months old--2000 miles.) Is it me or is it really hard to change the spark plugs . Reading the maintenance manual, flagging pages, going back and forth, removing and noting where all lines connect up, the rear being more involved than the front...am I missing something or will this take several hours? Has anyone noticed improvement with different spark plugs? Any advice or direction would be appreciated. | ||
| Daves |
You can change the plugs in about 15 minutes. Take off the side air scoop, 3 torx bolts. The front one is easy, the wires are tough to get back on, a long 90 degree bend needle nose pliers are great for the job. The rear one, take off the seat, get a 10" or so wobble extension and a swivel, feed it thru the frame get it on the plug, turn just enough to loosen it and take the plug out with your fingers or just the plug socket. You do not have to take off the airbox and all that other stuff. Might want to be careful running hotter plugs. Pistons are a real job to replace! | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
What Daves said. You CAN change the plugs in 15 minutes. You probably won't the first time you try it:-). Took me and Gerry about an hour the very first time. But Daves instructions definitely do work. I would be somewhat hesitant to use hotter plugs in that motor, or any air cooled motor: they usually run hot enough. Daves got me some Denso Iridium plugs which are working just great in my race kitted nine. I think I would try that first, if you think fouled plugs really are the problem. Like Dave said, pistons are a lot harder to replace than plugs, ( not that I have tried it:-). | ||
| Typeone |
I've had my plugs in and out three times lately and Daves process is the one I use too. Yesterday's swap only took about 30min 'cause I yanked the plug wire off the coil. wires can be tricky but with the right tools its an easy job. As for hotter plug in your 12, i definitely agree with the two posts above, that sounds a little sketchy to me. Regarding plug types... I've run the stock H-D 10R12As, Buell Pro-Series and now running NGK DCPR9Es (Aprilia uses this plug stock, helps in locating them) while i'm waiting for my NGK DCPR9EIXs to arrive which is the iridium equivalent. I dropped down to a 9 series (1 heat range cooler than stock) trying to help with my ping that wont go away. Nothing changed after i installed them yesterday. Back to checking the static timing again. ugh. I exchanged a few emails with Al at American Sport Bike the other day who also runs the NGK DCPR9Es in his Buells and has never had a fouling problem. I would settle on the 9Es but figured I'd try the Iridium for the hell of it since I already bought them. | ||
| Cruisin |
If I remember correctly, NGK DCPR8EIX is the iridium equiv. to stock, the 9 is one heat range cooler. And although it doesn't look like it's been mentioned - use anti-seize and di-electric grease. | ||
| Dwolk |
I want to thank everyone for their comments. The help and information is really appreciated. Thanks again. | ||
| Daves |
Hey, it's what we do around here! | ||
| Dwolk |
A follow up question. Buell sold me: Buell® Pro-Series Performance Spark Plug 32822-01Y. The description reads: "Patented Split "V" Side Electrode resists fouling and improves combustion efficiency. Triple platinum for extra-long life. Fine wire center electrode for easier starts." When Daves} and Gentleman_Jon say that pistons are a lot harder to replace than plugs, are they referring to plugs like these? | ||
| Daves |
Nope, those will be fine | ||
| Dwolk |
Thanks. |
