| Author | Message | ||
     Yahooboy |
I plan on doing the minor work on my bike myself (oil changes, brake pads, etc) What tools and equipment are absolutely necessary? | ||
| Sokota |
1.) The Shop Manual | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Torx bits, allen keys, wrenches and sockets (metric and SAE). These tools will get you through 90% of the maintenance, but really you never have all the tools. For example, I have a BIG collection of tools but had to make a trip out to get the 'exact' sized crows foot for my o2 sensor removal. | ||
| Bruceclay |
Service manual 3/8 drive socket set set of allen head sockets set of combination wrenches 1/2 drive breaker bar with the socket that fits the axle bolt adapter (forgot what size) rear end lift (you can use a floor jack for the front) That will get most of it. you can cherry pick the socket and wrench sizes (after you get the service manual) if you want to try to save space/money and just buy what you have to have at a pawn shop. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Torque wrench is handy. LOTS of Blue Loctite, or the bolts on your chin fairing will vibrate out after your oil chnage. Anti-seize for the axles. Metric allens also, needed for the front brake IIRC. | ||
| Socalbueller |
Bruceclay, How do you secure the front of the bike while using a floor jack? In a few weeks I'll be getting new tires and would like to take the wheels off myself. Right now I am trying to figure out what kind of stand/lift I should get. | ||
| Bruceclay |
How do you secure the front of the bike leave it on the side stand. My floor jack is a little too tall to fit under the lift point on the muffler. Especially after I put the shop rag and a leather glove on it to keep from scratching the muffler. I just lift up on the throttle side of the bars to initially get the jack under there. You don't have to lift it up very far to get the wheel off. At that point you can remove the caliper (wrap it in a rag to keep it from getting scratched), loosen the pinch bolts and unscrew the axle. the axle is reverse thread  (VERY IMPORTANT). If you want to do the shortcut way (it will take longer the first time) you can remove the fender instead of the caliper and with some patience and care you can rotate the fork leg with the caliper on it out of the way so you don't have to take it off. It takes some practice but it can be done. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
All the ideas mentioned above are good. I like a little 1/4" ratchet handle for my torx and allens: it is just a bit handier than a 3/8" set. I might add the Parts Manual as well. This not only gives you the parts names and numbers when you want to order them, but also shows the relationship of the parts to each other: this can be very useful when putting everything back together:-). I order all my Buell Parts from one of our sponsors, Daves, ( Dave Stueve) from Appleton HD. I guess his phone number is one of the most valuable tools I have:-) (920) 757-1651. Many local HD dealers do not stock Buell parts and don't seem to be in much of a hurry to order them. As far as changing oil is concerned, many members report good success using Mobil 1 15w50 engine oil, and Mobil 1 75W95 gear oil in the transmission. I purchase the oil and oil filters at a useful discount from Walmart. They sell a filter the is identical to the Buell filter,part number is: SuperTech St 4967. If you are fortunate, given the reliable nature of the new Buells, you won't have to do much work on your bike. I find that with a little planning, I can do all the routine maintenance on just one day a year: I change oil, filters and tires at the same time every year, and every third year, I plan on changing the belt at the same time. I have a 2003 with the old style belt. The newer 2004-2005 belts should last five years, and the newest 2006 belts do not have a scheduled replacement schedule. ( I am estimating 5000 miles per year.) That leaves plenty of time to use your new tool kit to make modifications to your bike:-) I think I have done about twenty five mods to mine, and that's not a lot compared to what some of our other members have done!! Another one of our Sponsors, Al Lighton of American Sport Bike, is a great source for aftermarket Buell parts, and enthusiastic information. All of the other sponsors are excellent sources of parts,bikes and information according to their specialties. Finally, if you get stuck, the knowledge vault on this site probably has the answer to your problem, and there is a Buell Customer service number 1-414-343-4056. Expect the best. | ||
| Starter |
Just did the work for a 5000 mile service on Saturday morning. Tools required were as follows, Metric and SAE allen key stubs (the bits that fit in sockets and can be torqued), oil filter wrench, oil drain pan, metric/SAE socket set, torque wrench, screwdrivers, cable luber, loctite 272, anti-seize. I think thats it?????? Forgot the service manual. Replaced the oil with 15W50 Mobil 1. Trans fluid with 75W90 Mobil 1. New oil filter. Washed air filter in the sink and re oiled. Cleaned oil from airbox. Adjusted steering head bearings. Removed both axles and coated in anti-seized. Checked the chassis bolts. Adjusted clutch and primary chain tension. Lubed throttle and clutch cables. Cleaned brake callipers. Checked plugs, checked for intake leaks with can of bbq propane. All up 2 1/2 hours work included the 15min to get the oil and filter. Really very simple work that anyone with the service manual and a bit of spare time can do. And the best part is knowing it was all done with plenty of care (Message edited by starter on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Skyguy |
Home made track stands. I use a ladder propped against the side of the garage and and a tie down strap to "lift" the bike for tire removal. Quick easy and cheap. | ||
| Starter |
I use the jack out of my girlfriend hatchback for hte front and a paddock stand for the rear. Never had any stability issue to date. | ||
| Frausty12r |
"And the best part is knowing it was all done with plenty of care" AMEN brother! | ||
| Race_pirate |
Get one of these....they come in blonde and brunette also...  | ||
| Broodwich |
I have noob question. I was told by the salesman at the dealership (I never trust them) that there were no valve adjustments. I also read that in one of the threads about the new Ulysses. Is that true? Can you also tell me what the service intervals are in miles? I heard 1000 then 5000 and each 5000 after that. Is that correct? I'm all for doing the work myself and it sounds like it wouldn't be tough to do. Currently I ride a F650 from BMW and it almost doesn't make sense to do your own service because of all the special tools you have to have. It doesn't sound like that's the case with a Buell. That's good news! I'm considering a new Ulysses and that would be an important factor in the overall cost of the bike. Plus I woudn't have to worry about the goofy kid they hired working on my bike forgetting to put oil back in the bike after a service or something else equally stupid. | ||
| Broodwich |
Oh, one more thing. Out of curiosity can you give me an idea of what it costs to have your Buell serviced at the dealer so I can compare to what BMW charges. | ||
| Lovematt |
Broodwich, I had my Buell serviced at the dealer in Santa Maria for about 200-300 bucks depending upon the mileage up until the 5000 mark. Since then I have done all my own servicing other than what I can't do myself (TPS reset, etc). The main reason I did this was so save money but I also found out that dealer is dropping Buell...they were great about doing the work on the bike so I don't know what that is. I must say I was a little apprehensive about doing my own work but after looking into what all is involved it is not much different then my car. If you keep your reciepts and mark on them what the purchase was for and what mileage + what work at that mileage was done then you have a paper trail. I strongly suggest getting the service manual and going slow at first. Take your time and if you are meant to do it you will know...if you are not sure then you need to get more info or assistance from someone else (like here...I have done this myself). I feel better about working on the bike now and am more confident should something happen...plus I know the work history of the bike. | ||
| Yahooboy |
Even paying the dealer doesn't sound bad at $200-300 a trip. My BMW Rockster ran me between $600-$700 each trip. It really got bad if they did the brakes (ABS makes it impossible to do your own) or had something that wasn't routine to add to the mix. But at $52.20 (through Daves), the service manual is well worth it (the BMW manual was $99). | ||
| Whodom |
Race_pirate, Yea, but those require more maintenance than the bike does!  | ||
| Broodwich |
And they cost way more money, in my experience. | ||
| Captjim |
Brood, Maintenance on the Buell is a dream. Is true, There is no valve adjustment required due to pushrods and hydraulic lifters just like an old V-8 car. The final drive is a belt no lubing there. The '06 models come with a lifetime belt, not even a 25,000 replacement, that's just crazy. The only real dealer required thing is resetting the throttle position sensor (TPS). Even this can be done by the shade tree mechanic if you buy aftermarket software. The service manual is excellent and will guide you through all required procedures. Just follow the rules, use loctite and anti-sieze as stated and always use a torque wrench. The maintenance was one of the main factors for me in purchasing this bike. Little did I know how much fun the thing is to ride. I would adjust the valves and replace a chain weekly if required. | ||
| Daves |
Brood, The sales person was right, no valve adjustments, ever. The first service is at 1000 miles, then 5000,then 10,000 I hear that may be changing with the 06 models? | ||
| Rubberdown |
Lots of cold beer! | ||
| Broodwich |
Thanks guys. |
