| Author | Message | ||
     Yahooboy |
Don't get me wrong, I don't have a problem stopping the bike, but when I test rode a new XB9R (just comparing to my XB9S) the front brake was TONS stronger. The first time I grabbed it, I grabbed it like I do mine, and it about sent me flying! The pad on mine looks new. Is the front brake adjustable, or should I have it checked? Like I said, I can stop...never even felt close to not being able to control the bike...but I wonder if mine is grabbing the way it should. It felt down right soft after riding that new bike. | ||
| Race_pirate |
How many miles do you have on your bike? Brake fluid is often overlooked and should be changed out every year. All you may need is fresh fluid and a bleed.... If your pads are towards the last @15% of there life may be time for those as well. | ||
| Monorad |
While we're on the topic, any recommendations on replacement pads (front). Mine are getting pretty worn. Stock has worked fine for me (NYC traffic = lots of low speed but scary sudden stoppies). If there's something better out there I'd like to hear about it. thx. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Bleed the front brake properly, pull all the fittings and wrap the threads with teflon tape, I was amazed at how much air was slipping past the threads under vacuum. There is an excellent explaination on a really good way to bleed the front brake in the knowledge vault written up by Henrik. I like the stock pads, but several have mentioned better life and response from the Lindel pads that American Sport Bike sells. | ||
| M1combat |
I've got about 10K miles on EBC's HH pads. They seem to work very well and offered a noticeable improvement in feel at the lever. They give a feel that makes you think the rotor is in your hand... sort of... It's a bit difficult to describe. The stock pads were very good as well, but pretty spensive  . I would imagine that the Lyndall's and the Ferodo's work quite well too... | ||
| Lonexb |
what M1 said. | ||
| Kootenay |
Wycked, why do you recommend wrapping the threads of the brake fittings with teflon? I'm pretty sure all the sealing is done between the copper gaskets and the banjos...brake fitting threads are not pipe threads... BTW, the brakes on my Bolt seem strong enough--I can stoppie the thing with ease, and I don't see much need for more stopping power than that! (although I'd probably install aftermarket pads, anyways, when the time comes). | ||
| Buellman39 |
Strong enough to hold the world stoppie record | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Kootenay: I was having a hell of a time getting my front caliper bled, until I read Henrik's instructions mentioning teflon taping the threads of the fittings, particularly the bleed screw. Breaking out the mighty vac, I tefloned the bleed screw, but none of the other fittings, then put the system under 20 lbs of vaccum and ended up with a tiny stream of air bubbles. Tefloned the next fitting, the inlet for the caliper, still a tiny stream, but much less, next one in line was the outlet fitting at the mastercylinder, taped it up. 20lbs of vacuum, and nothing, 30 lbs and nothing. BTW, I replaced the copper washer EVERY time I opened the fitting. So they were new copper washers when I started the bleed, and new copper washers when I finished the bleed. | ||
| Sarodude |
Don't confuse TRAVEL with EFFORT. Hard to do sometimes.... Does your brake require more travel or more effort to get the same stopping power as the newer bike? If it requires more travel, then bleed it. If it requires more effort, maybe your pads are glazed or something. -Saro | ||
| Blake |
New bads will provide more initial bite. As they wear-in they become less bity. And what Saro said. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think Al at American Sportbike (see sponsors) was recommending a killer set of brakes pads... I forget the brand... I just remember I was going to call him when I needed a new set... | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
Al told me lindel's. For the record, I ended up with EBC's and like em'. As M1 said, good feel. | ||
| Kootenay |
OK, Wycked. If it works, do it! (the fact that my mechanical engineering training says it shouldn't make a difference doesn't mean anything--sometimes, ya just gotta try things out!). Just be careful to cover only the threads, though! (for anyone planning to do this...). BTW, the I really like the fact that Buell includes SS braided brake lines...stock! | ||
| Yahooboy |
"If it requires more travel, then bleed it. If it requires more effort, maybe your pads are glazed or something. " I spent about 7 hours on the bike today on a variety of roads. I really thought about the whole travel vs. effort question and here is what I noticed: I have to pull the brake lever over half way back to engage the brakes (regardless of the setting on the dial). There is no initial bite when I apply the brakes but that may just have been the new pads on the bike I test rode...I was able to skid my front tire, but not stoppie strength. Does any of this tell anyone anything? | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
BTW, the I really like the fact that Buell includes SS braided brake lines...stock! At 1/2 the cost of the SS braided line for the '04 Sporty, I know I needed a replacement in a pinch one day. | ||
| Bluebuellxb9r |
Ive gone through several sets o` pads - Ill add my recomendation for the Lindells - really good feel untill they are totally beat ( last trackday for example ). On this topic, has anyone made a move on the master cyclinder ? Trojan Horse has an upgrade one and I was wondering if anyone has tried this. | ||
| Rsh |
Yahooboy, If you have the right tools you can pull the pads in less than 10 minutes, then you can check for glazing and overall pad condition (even wear) and repair or replace as necessary and when reassembled bleed the system. I just replaced my pads today, I am on my second set of Lyndall's on the front and installed Lyndall's on the rear as well. I love that break-in procedure, hello 2 finger stoppie's | ||
| Al_lighton |
Lyndalls are semi-metallic race compound pads that work very well on the street. I highly recommend them. The EBC's and the Ferodo's are both sintered. The Ferodo's are "cryo-processed", for all the good that may do..I dunno, might be great, haven't tried those yet personally. Lyndall guarantee's their's are the best you've used or they'll refund your money. Nice folks, too. You get a little more dust, and might get less mileage, not sure, haven't worn mine out yet, but the feel and stopping power is excellent. Seehere Al | ||
| Tunes |
Yahooboy - If your brake lever is half way back to engage the brakes, my opinion is it's your pads. I checked my front pads last week and discovered they were 3/4 worn. I replaced them and the lever is now out at max... just like when new... and it grabs like nobody's business. I thought I was checking my brake pads on a regular basis... well, I was not looking carefully enough. It was after I bought my bike lift and got the brakes at eye-level that I was able to get a GOOD look. Wow! My rear pads were, let's just say they were "thin." Did I get my money's worth? Yes. Would I cut it that close again? No. I bought the stock pads. They work well and they fit. Opps. Forgot to mention I changed both front and rear pads at 18.5K miles (Message edited by Tunes on July 31, 2005) (Message edited by Tunes on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Bcordb3 |
You never mentioned what setting your brake lever was set on. That can make a difference. | ||
| Frausty12r |
Bcodb3, I think he mentioned he tried all brake lever settings, to no avail it's the same. IMO, it sounds like badly worn pads, if you had air in the break system, the brake lever would feel "spongy". If it's a firm resistance, yet it only engages halfway, it sounds like the pads are worn out an need replacing. Can you still see the vent slits in the factory pads? should be two crevaces viewable from the top edge of the pad looking toward the axle. If you can't see them, it's time for new pads (oem pads have the vent slits in them, not sure about the lyndall's (Message edited by frausty12R on July 31, 2005) |
