| Author | Message | ||
     Trevorxb9s |
I have an other thread going and I hate starting another one, but I am in a huge jam right now. I having a cooling fan issue. It's not turning on. I live in Phoenix, and went for a short ride last night and it should have turned on. I checked the fuse...nothing wrong. Any suggestions? I am suppose to leave Thursday morning for a trip...I would appreciate any help any one could offer... | ||
| Buellman39 |
See if you can unhook the fan and plug it in direct to your battery. If it runs then your head sensor is bad. Also check the fuse. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Trevor I have a spare fan if it turns out you need one. PM me. I also have a spare head temp sensor if you want to try and change it out to see if that is the issue, just don't think I have a socket that will work, will have to look in the garage. | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
Temp Sensor it is I believe...I just hooked the fan straight to the battery and it works. How hard is it to change the temp sensor, and what do I need to know!!!...You guys rock! | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Its located in the rear cylinder head where that square openign with the wire coming out is located. I will check and see if I have a socket we can drill for the wire. Also, check the length of the wire and see if the cloth insulation has worn through against the rocker box cover...if it has, tape it up with electrical tape and take the bike for a ride, just to make sure it isn't shorting out. | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
Have you changed one before? I'll buy a socket we can drill, thats no big deal. My concern is how to go about it, there isn't a ton of room and there seems to be a rubber boot/wire connector over the top of the sensor. By the way, I owe you huge! | ||
| Blackbelt |
If the sensor is the same as my X1, it is REALLY simple to remove... Don't worry about messing up a long socket to remove it.. someone else here on this board suggested something else for me when my sensor went out. Just put the socket on the sensor, and take a Long bladed flat head (large head) screw driver in the socket then use a Vise grip or similar wrench on the screw driver shaft and it should turn out w/ little to no problem. and do the reverse on the install... voila... done | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
You don't remove the wire from the sensor, you use a SOCKET that is slotted so the wire isn't pinched by the socket. (Message edited by wyckedflesh on July 12, 2005) | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Spidey ingenuity there BB?  | ||
| Blackbelt |
you slide the wire up through the 1/4" square slot and then use the screw driver... you don't cut off any wires or anything... I never said squat about removing the wire... just feed the wire up through the socket. That way you don't have to SLOT a socket... and ruin it | ||
| Blackbelt |
I think it was someone like Blake or Crusty that told me that. It was about 1 year ago, so i don't quite remember | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
Its a weird set up way down in there. It appears that there is a boot over the sensor and wire combo. There doesn't seem to be a way to grab onto it with a socket. Anyone changed one of these on an XB or better yet, have a maintance manual saying what needs to be done... | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
You use long nose pliers to grab the boot and pull it up the length of the wire. Its real easy after you take off the heim jointed crossbar that has the ground strap attached. I just did it on my 12. BB I was typing the same time as you so we cross posted about the socket cutting VS using a screw driver in the head of the socket  | ||
| Cruisin |
I haven't done it myself, but you can get a socket that fits this nicely at: http://www.ironmachine.com/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=131 Cory is great...$20 for the socket and free shipping. (Message edited by cruisin on July 12, 2005) | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
That kicks booty...I just ordered one. Looks like I'm gonna have the trailer the bike anyhow. I have the part waiting for me, and the sockets on its way. Thanks for all the info! | ||
| Opto |
Trevor, Did you check for trouble code 14 head temp sensor and 36 cooling fan, this may verify the cause. | ||
| Trevorxb9s |
I actually never road it far enough to get the trouble code. Only a block or 2 with the GF on the back. I noticed the fan didn't come on after I parked. I did disconnect the fan and ran it straight to the battery and it worked. I'm guessing its the temp sensor. Thanks for the info. | ||
| M1combat |
Are you sure it got warm enough to run? | ||
| S1lightning |
How hot was it out when you rode? Did you ride long enough to trip the sensor? Go for a long ride and keep up the momentum so you don't over heat to bad (remember, before we had these funky little noise makers, we just burned our freakin legs off!!), now pull into garage shut it off and see what ya got. If no fan, pull out the ols trusty house fan, box fan whatever, but you really don't have to. The fan in these XB's were just to make the oil last longer as well as better start up's as far as lubrication goes!!! Good luck! | ||
| Fullpower |
you rode 2 blocks, and now your fan is broken? damn these buells. yup better put it on a trailer if you want to go very far. | ||
| Fullpower |
you do not need to remove the engine temp sensor to test its function. the pink/yellow wire in position 9 of the grey ecm connector is directly connected to the ETS.check resistance to ground. at 77 degrees F you should have near 41K, at 104 degrees spec is25.6K and drops to 1042 ohms at 302 degrees F. the cooling fan is supposed to kick on at a a cylinder heads temperature of 428 degrees F with engine running, and 338 degrees with key off. a ride around the block is very unlikely to attain a cylinder head temperature to turn your fan on. | ||
| S1lightning |
Yea what he said (freakin scientist?)  | ||
| S1lightning |
Ya'll Alaskin guys scare me! |
