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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through June 24, 2005 » Primary chain question. « Previous Next »

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Cataract2
Posted on Wednesday, June 22, 2005 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, I got my TPS and AFV reset today and when the tech came back to let me know he was done he asked about when I last serviced the bike. I told him just recently and he mentioned that the primary chain sounded loose. I set it to 1/2 inch on cold spec. Was curious if that might be a bit to loose and what kind of noise he could be hearing to make him think it is loose?
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Gearhead998
Posted on Wednesday, June 22, 2005 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I believe that the spec is between 3/8 and 1/2 inch. I just did mine and adjusted it to the middle. Figured that was a safe place. Just my thoughts though
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Odinbueller
Posted on Wednesday, June 22, 2005 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The rule of thumb is better loose than tight on the primary chain, so try it on the outside spec. When you start the bike, check to see if the chain is hitting the primary case at idle after the adjustment. If so, you need to go up one notch on the adjustment. If not, you're good to go.

A tight primary chain can cause some pretty involved headaches latter on down the road.
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Metalstorm
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 01:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

As said in the manual:

free play:

Cold...3/8-1/2

Hot....1/4-3/8


I'd take any advice given by Odinbueller, he knows a thing or two about these bikes
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Phantom5oh
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 03:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

HMMM I adjusted mine to 1/4" of freeplay hot... Should I loosen it up a CH???

Why is loose better?
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Ingemar
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Too tight results in excessive wear, not just on the chain and sprockets, but also on the bearings. It also results in poor shifting, jumping out of gear and a hard-to-find neutral.

Maybe it ruins things more than that, I wouldn't know.
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Cataract2
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I checked it cold today and set it to roughly 1/2". Plus I changed the trans fluid back to Mobil 1 75/90 from Mobil 1 15/50. Shifts waaaaaaaaaay better now. Neutral is much easier to get into.
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Odinbueller
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 10:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The reasoning behind going with the outside spec is that the chain will tighten up once it reaches operating temperature. If you chain is too tight on the cold spec, the chain is going to try and pull your clutch basket & sprocket together, causing premature wear on chain, tensioner, and leaks behind the primary.
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Unibear12r
Posted on Thursday, June 23, 2005 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Too loose and the chain hits the high points of the case (where the bolts go through) and puts bits of (conductive, nonmagnetic) metal in your primary/tranny. I follow the book exact and go 3/8s to 1/2 cold only, three different points on the chain.
Expanding? What expands faster/most as the motor warms, the case distance between the primary gear & the clutch basket or the chain? Also remember that the more the chain & adjuster shoe wear the more loose they become.
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