| Author | Message | ||
     Thepup |
I won a seat cowl for xb9s on ebay for $5.50,wonder if I will get it at all. | ||
| Buellman39 |
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| Thepup |
I won the auction fro ebargainllc,has anyone heard of them? | ||
| Buellman39 |
Yes, its cheap carbon, there was a thread last week about it. Do a search  | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
AHHHHH NOOOOO!  ebargainllc! I tried my CF intake on last night and the rear bolt slot is sealed shut. Can't mount it. And look at how this thing is made!  | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
It's crap.  | ||
| Stavross |
hand layed carbon fibre  looks good not | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
This slot is sealed on the back, can't mount it.  | ||
| Stavross |
just drill it out. | ||
| Black_sunshine |
Grant...That looks like a$$. I have made all my CF parts for my 9s and they were hand layed.(look at my profile under mods). I'll have to admit that the intake was the toughest one but that's just sad. Is it over the original piece or a new intake off a mods? Looks like it weighs a ton with all that bondo. There is no reason that is shouldn't be solid CF.    With CF you usually get what you pay for. Al has top notch CF at www.americansportbike.com Pricey, but well worth it. If you ever wonder about quality with someone selling it on Ebay or whatnot ask if it solid or just a cosmetic layer on top of Bondo, glass or worse, plastic. Also, ask what kinda layup (prepreg or dry) they use under vacuum. Lastly, what kinda resin (epoxy, acrylic or worse, polyester) I use this material everyday at my job and if I can be of help to anyone just ask. (Message edited by black_sunshine on May 06, 2005) | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
I could, but I don't like the way this thing is made. Looks like crap, so not worth my time. I would prefer to just paint the stock one something wild.  | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
OH DAYAM Black_sunshine!  That's Schweeet. Nice work. That's how CF should look. | ||
| Black_sunshine |
Thanks...I put a lot of effort into it. I used my bike as the test subject 'cause I had never made motorcycle parts before. I figured if I can mold it I can make it. | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
Will: I wouldn't mind trying myself. Even just out of fiberglass. Is it tough for firt timers? I've played with fiberglass on boats before. | ||
| Black_sunshine |
It not tough if you have the right equipment. Fortunately, I have all I need here at the office. I use a dry layup on a plaster mold. Liquid acrylic resin is used under vacuum to keep out air. You could hand lay without vacuum but it comes out thick from excessive resin with possible air bubbles. Try it on some scrap/wrecked plastic you'll probably get it on the first try. Sorry Pup...didn't mean to hijack your thread (Message edited by black_sunshine on May 06, 2005) (Message edited by black_sunshine on May 06, 2005) | ||
| Rosko |
got the frame/tank covers for my X1 from ebargainLLC....$88, not $288. Fit good, no trimming, just enlarged holes with a file...hard to justify the $200 difference in price. | ||
| Thepup |
I am painting the seat cowl,so saving $145 works for me.How long did it take to get your stuff from ebargainllc? | ||
| Rosko |
won auction on a thursday, seven days to pay so paid the following tuesday or wednesday, had the pieces the following week on thursday, so two weeks after i won the auction....could have had them sooner if i had paid right away.. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Black_sunshine Nice work ! Would you be willing to make an intake scoop with a divider in it, so you would have positive pressure in the air box. Still let enough pass thru for engine cooling. Maybe a little different configuration on the inlet, to make things work out. The way the scoops made now, I would think it causes a vacuum. Thanks Mike | ||
| Pcmodeler |
I picked up the carbon front fender from them. The style is is different than the stock fender. After some of the comments from other guys here, I was really concerned about the quality but figured one piece would be a good test. The bike is in the shop so I haven't mounted it yet, but the quality isn't too bad. Yes, the backside is nowhere as nice as my Buell or American Sportbike Carbon. The surface has some scratch marks in it from sanding but nothing extremely noticeable unless you hold it a few inches from your face. Ultimately, I plan to get all of my carbon clear coated anyway. Took less than seven days from payment to receive so my overall experience with them wasn't too bad. I look forward to mounting it on the bike. | ||
| Black_sunshine |
Mike.....Do you mean splitting the scoop in half with a divider? The only way I know how to do that is make a flat piece CF and just cut to fit. You could do that with the stock one pretty easily. As far as making a new one. I can only say that the scoop tested my patients and skill. I had to fabricate it 3 times until I got one that passed my OCD standard. I had to actually make one out of plaster and try to copy the same shape as stock so it would fit with no gaps. I told myself never again, but I said that before on numerous "other" things as well. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Yeah, that's what I was thinking about. I'll try to figure something out with stock scoop, I guess. I know how labor intensive and time consuming custom stuff is. Regardless, you did a great job! | ||
| Diablobrian |
Norris, If you have a local supplier for ABS plastic it is very easy to cut, form, and weld or glue for adding a divider to the stock scoop. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Are you talking about abs, pvc, glue? It wouldn't be a problem to get the plastic. | ||
| Diablobrian |
yup, 1/8" sheet abs plastic (most plastic shops have a scrap bin that will have what you need in it). make a cardboard template. cut a little oversize. warm plastic with a heat gun to make it flexible, or warm it up in your oven to 150-175 deg F form it to fit like you like and then glue in place. May take a couple of tries to get the hang of it, but you can prototype pretty fast. If you are just doing non functioning prototyping use expanded PVC. You can work that stuff really easily with a heat gun, but it is far weaker than ABS. | ||
| Norrisperformance |
Thanks Brian Great Info ! | ||
| Koz5150 |
Pcmodeler, Wait till next year. On the front fender, your carbon fiber will be turning shades of green. Keep your eye on it. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Wait till next year. On the front fender, your carbon fiber will be turning shades of green. Keep your eye on it. Because of the resin used or the lack of clear coat? | ||
| Black_sunshine |
UV rays will turn the clear coat yellow/greenish. The best way to stop this is just use a good UV wax and do it often. It will help. Lack of clear coat will actually help the non-yellowing process. | ||
| Koz5150 |
I don't why. I guess the clear coat is the answer. I just know that cheaper carbon fiber parts seem to do this. When you have parts mixed on a bike (good stuff and cheap stuff) it fades at different rates and looks bad over time. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Virtually all CF uses epoxy resins, as polyester resins don't wet out CF cloth well so strength is much reduced. Epoxy resins are not UV stabilized. They will deteriorate over time, the surface can lose gloss, the resins can discolor, and can become brittle, and the surface resin thickness can go away, much like the oxidized surface of a paint job can when buffed out. For aircraft structural applications, they are ALWAYS coated with opaque coatings to block UV. For motorsports stuff, CF is used as much for the look as much as weight savings, so opaque coatings are not common. Given the material properties, a fabricator has two choices: Coat with UV attenuating clear coats, or not. Neither has an overal clear (pun) advantage. On the positive side, clear coating does provide some UV protection to the underlying epoxy resin, and can cover a multitude of sins in the fabrication process, and it doesn't require as highly polished a tool. This saves fabrication cost, but is often balanced by the additional coating step cost. However, clear coats don't prevent all UV penetration and deterioration of the underlying resins, and there lies the rub. As the underlying surface degrades, the clear coat adhesion can become marginal and the clear coat can more easily chip off. Once it chips, restoration is very difficult without sanding and disturbing the cloth itself. American Sport Bike (and Buell) Carbon Fiber is NOT clear coated. We recommend keeping it well waxed with a UV protective, non-abrasive, non-cleaner wax. Wax has UV attenuation properties, and it doesn't chip off and is easily replenished on the surface. Wax doesn't chip or yellow. Another factor in how well the CF weathers is the construction technique. If it is autoclaved, vacuum bagged prepreg, the thickness of the exposed epoxy top resin layer is thin, so there is less thickness to yellow and turn brittle. Other techniques and materials can cause quite a bit thicker of a surface layer, which is a lot more obvious when it yellows. We usd to sell some stuff like that, I turned it off when I took over because the quality just wasn't there. Al |
