| Author | Message | ||
     Typeone |
I just threw some new bars on my 12S, Azonic CR Lows, and ran into a small snag I didn't think about... the little nubs that hold the plastic housings in place for the signals, horn, start, etc. On the stock bars there are little guide holes to keep these in place... not so on the aftermarket of course unless you drill them. I just shaved off the 'nubs' but I'm wondering what others have done to prevent shifting over time. I've got the hex bolts cranked down pretty tight but they're just plastic, probably not good to torque them down too much. My bike isn't back on the road yet so I'm not sure if it will even be an issue (due to vibration) but still curious how others with aftermarket MX bars have secured the controls. | ||
| Thansesxb9rs |
Drill the holes in the new bars. | ||
| U4euh |
I ran a line of electrical tape tha was just as wide as the plastic housing. Wrapped about 3-4 times gave me enough that when tightened, i could really feel the difference. Shouldn't be no problem if you choose to do this. I like my controls tilted farther forward than those little "dots" would allow, so I had to cut em off also. | ||
| Typeone |
Thanks guys. U4euh, that's a good idea, I started thinking along those lines too like a thin strip of rubber with an adhesive backing but the electrical tape should work just as well. | ||
| Scitz |
By removing the nub you risk the possibility of the controls twisting. I bought by XB9R and the nub on the throttle control was broken. I was able to ride but the control would slip and I would have to twist it back, was bad when I would throttle down from a wheelie and the controls would twist forward. I suggest using a small screw where the nub was at and then drilling a hole in the bars. The screw head will act as a new nub. | ||
| Typeone |
Thanks, Scitz. That is definitely plan B. She's still not back on the road but i know that i will feel much better if i take that route. both methods are easy enough to implement. Seems people have taken both approaches and had success. I feel like it will be hard to line up the screw with a mark for new hole properly but maybe not. Unfortunately I have to keep my bike away from home in a storage unit so i can't play... appreciate the input though. | ||
| Outrider |
Scitz...I like your screw idea. I went the tape route after grinding off the locater pins and it works great. Although I didn't have much slippage with my aftermarket bars. FYI, replacement left and right switch pods with wiring harness will cost you less than $50 at your local dealer. I bought a spare pair in the event I swap back to the stock or other pre-drilled bars. Well, that's what I tell folks. Actually, I dropped the starter pod and all the little brass things popped out and I wasn't sure if I could get it back together without a schematic. Turns out I was able to get the original working properly and now I have a spare set. LOL |
