| Author | Message | ||
     Tatsu |
As I watch another nice day go by, I was wondering what causes the stator to go bad and is there any thing to do to prevent this? It seems most people are loosing their stator around the 18K or 20K mark. Is this a normal thing? I wanted to know, so once I get it fix if there is anything preventative I can do I want to do it. Meanwhile, the bike sits there until I can get it to the dealer for my servicing next Sat. | ||
| Tomzweifel |
Excessive current causes heat that damages the insulation on the windings. The windings short to each other or to ground. On HD's, and Buells of course, the voltage regulators need a small amount of current draw in order to work properly. Usually, that minimum requirement is satisfied by the current draw of the headlight. Usually on a HD if you lose your headlight, your voltage regulator isn't far behind. If the regulator doesn't have that minimum current it dumps the stator current to ground. This can kill the stator in short order. There are some aftermarket regulators that claim not to do this, like: http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup.aspx?GID=5F74F21F-88AA-443C-8A86-3CA7681395 73 ...but I don't know if there's anything to it personally. | ||
| Glitch |
I was wondering the same thing. As I get closer to 40thousand I guess I'll go ahead and buy one to have when this one goes out. Any advise on what the best aftermarket stator is? | ||
| Hogs |
Glitch, 40 grand still original stator ?? | ||
| Glitch |
No, my first one gave out at 20thousand. | ||
| Al_lighton |
My THEORY of what causes the failures of some stators is that the stranded wire that is soldered to the solid stator winding wire is fatiguing at that joint due to stranded wire flex. The sold wire doesn't flex, but the stranded wire is only loosely captured by a metal plate to keep it from rubbing the rotor. I've seen a few stators that fried right at that joint. And it seems that a large number of stators fail in the 20-30,000 mile range. When I have my primary apart on any of my bikes, I clean up the housing with brake cleaner around the metal plate that keeps the stranded wire off of the rotor, and then bond it down with Silicone sealer. I have no evidence that this will work. But after seen a few fail at that splice, I think theory that the wire is flexing there too much is sound. Bonding it down certainly can't hurt. Al | ||
| Hogs |
Thanks for the info Glitch, And thats a good point,can`t hurt Al | ||
| 99x1 |
"...doesn't have that minimum current it dumps the stator current to ground." The tuber Buells have a single phase 22 amp alternator that has a shunt regulator - if the voltage goes high, it shorts the output of the stator (not to ground though). The XB models have a 3 phase 38 amp alternator (3 separate stator coils), so shorting 38 amps (540 watts) is a lot of heat - the XB regulator must run freakin' hot if it is a shunt regulator? | ||
| Fullpower |
yes shunt regulator, stator runs full bore 100% of the time. might as well run auxilliary lamps, heated vest, etc. no reason not to use the electricity, goes completely to waste if you dont use it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'm right there with ya fullpower... (apt name  ) and not only that, but mr X1 has me thinking. If I have a 30 watt extra light on the bike somewhere, that's 30 watts of heat bleeding off the bulb. If I don't, that same 30 watts is bleeding off the stator wires. You know, those same wires that fail after 20,000 miles of heat cycles. | ||
| Tatsu |
I hope the dealer has them in stock. I talked to them to today and he said your clutch can burn out and stink like that too. I don't think it's the clutch. I am able to shift okay. The bike was getting harder and harder to start and all indicators point to the stator. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
In my case, the clip holding the wiring away from the spinning components came loose and shaved the wiring. Tatsu that is definatley the stator, if at all possible, stop trying to start it as you can take your battery with the stator when it completely fails. (Message edited by wyckedflesh on April 25, 2005) | ||
| Tatsu |
Well considering it's smoking when it runs, I haven't started it at all again. The next time I start it will be the to take it to the dealer this Sat. Just sucks cause the weather is nice and everyone is riding and I'm just sitting there in the SUV going damn I wish I had my bike. | ||
| Cataract2 |
How much do stator's cost btw? Was going over 10K service last night and this ran through my head. Though, if mine goes at 20 then it will be a warrenty fix. At 7500 now and will be over 10k before my one year ownership comes around. hehehehehe | ||
| Tatsu |
I don't know. I was looking through the manual and it doesn't seem to be difficult to replace the stator at all. It looks as if you gotta press it out of some type of bearing though. My biggest problems is tools. I just need to go through the tool list and get all the recommended tools. Then I should just strip the bike all the way down and put it back together again. However, I don't have a garage or winter down time. Maybe I'll just get a wrecked XB some how and do it that way. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The following is all tuber experience, but i think it is about the same on an XB... No bearing press for the stator, its a simple job. Pop off the shifter assembly, pop off the primary cover, remove a spring clip and more of the clutch actuation assembly. Then remove the crank nut, and the big nut that holds the whole clutch pack and sprocket on. Once both these nuts are off, you can work off the clutch pack, primary chain, and magnetic cup that covers the stator. It all comes off as one big unit, and leaves really cool prints on your jeans while you support it and put it someplace safe. The magnets will "pull back", so you will have to work at it a little, but no heroics required. The stator then just unbolts. Make sure you spend a lot of time cleaning, locktiting, and torqing the crank / crank nut back down correctly. Many of us (myself included) have had to go back in there and retorque the thing, you don't want it coming loose and chewing on your crank. There are a lot of pieces that come off, and you need a couple BFS (big freaking sockets, a big sears was where I found them), but it is not a bad job at all. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
American Sport Bike has the lockbar to go between the primary gear and the clutch drive gear so you can undo those monster nuts. Remember, the primary gear is torqued down to 190ftlbs...and Loctite is your friend  | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
From the retail pricebook: 29971-02Y STATOR, 38 AMP, THREE PHASE 131.00 |
