| Author | Message | ||
     Kootenay |
I just got my new 03 9R on the road this past weekend, and after only a few hundred km there is a slight oil leak--more of a "seep"--from the bottom of the clutch cover. I opened it up to take a look, and I noticed two things: the gasket is very thin, and the surfaces to which the gasket seals are both covered with the same black, slightly rough finish as the outside of the primary cover (I'm used to gasket seats being machined, or at least smooth). Is this a common problem? Is there a thicker gasket available for the clutch cover? Or would it just be that the stock gasket sat for a couple of years on the showroom floor? I'm thinking of just buying some thicker, softer gasket stock and cutting my own gasket...any opinions on this? Anyone done it? | ||
| M1combat |
The service manual recommends that the gasket be replaced every time you remove it. Probably due to the effects of the wrinkle coat. On my 12 (which doesn't have that coating) I tend to be able to re-use that gasket at least 4-5 times. I would tighten the bolts down just a tad (don't over do it, that metal is reasonably soft). Maybe turn the gasket around as well... | ||
| Buelltroll |
I reused that gasket until just recently (5000+ miles)it DID seep until I changed it. Change it,see if it still seeps,if it does THEN get all mcgyver with it. | ||
| Blake808 |
M1combat wrote- "I would tighten the bolts down just a tad (don't over do it, that metal is reasonably soft)." From my experience the metal is really soft. The service manual says 84-108 in/lbs. I had my torque wrench set to 80 in/lbs and it still stripped out all the threads on 1 of the bolts. | ||
| Hogs |
The dealer tech. here says 4 to 6 lbs. thats what he uses... | ||
| Kootenay |
Thanks, guys. Yeah, I've tightened the screws about as far as I want to (I've got some experience with casing screws). I think what I need is a softer, slightly thicker gasket. Maybe the OEM gaskets have dried up a bit--I'm now noticing another leak from around the primary chain inspection cover (which I've never opened). Oh, and BTW--got any good ideas on how to pry out those covers without damaging anything? I managed to remove the clutch cover just fine, but it did require judicious use of a screwdriver... | ||
| Buell2001b |
i created a special screwdriver for this. you might want to do the same. i used a regular flat head screwdriver that is about 1/4 " at the head. then i filed it one side od the flat head so it becomes very thin. by doing this when i try to insert the screw driver in the gad it slides very easy. then i try to loosen first at 3 or 4 different parts of the cover so it looses a bit. I also user a rubber head mullet and hit 3 or four times to loosen the seal. i worked great. you might also want to use synthetic oil. and make sure the bike is level when you refill. i think that is one main issue why i hear guys complaining about a hard gear shift on the buells. when i had it done at a dealer it was a bit rough, now that i did it it runs so smooth, im sure that they did not stand the bike when they filled it and had it lean instead. | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
I use the last bolt I remove angled so it catches against the top and bottom of the cover as I pull it out. I have only run into the seep issue after the 3rd to 4th removal. I also tend to retighten the bolts acouple of days later. just a slight twist to make certain its snug. | ||
| Bomber |
race kit for tubers recommened using no gasket on the priamary cover, but Yamabond -- been running it that way for two years, now, with no leak, seep or discharge of precious fluids . . . . . kinda tough to remove, though, so be warned | ||
| Kootenay |
Bomber, yeah I know about paste type gasket materials, and for the primary cover I might consider it--but the clutch cover has to be removed to check and change the transmission oil, so it has to be removeable. Same with the primary chain inspection cover--it should be easily removeable, yet not leak. Poor design IMO. Another item--I was checking various fittings, and found the front oil line fitting attached to the oil cooler is crossthreaded. I can't believe it--it came from the manufacturer like this? Or is it suppposed to look like that? The fitting bolt is angled, and so is the oil line where it exits--but the threads on the male part are visible, and straight (ie. angled wrt the bolt--sure looks crossed to me). It's seeping a bit, but very little--I'm not going to touch it until a dealer has looked at it (covering my •••...). | ||
| Daveinm |
I'm starting a new thread about the torque values in the manual. I just got done rethreading the hole for the bolt that holds in the shifter. | ||
| Suprsprt454 |
I just had the same problem. If you go to the dealer there is a updated inspection cover gasket and cover, and there is a updated clutch cover and gasket. I think its 25 bucks each. Or you could use rtv. | ||
| Starter |
Solved mine with a peice of bicycle inner tube cut to the same pattern as the gasket I got out with sissors. Works a treat and has a little squish factor to get a good seal. Can;t get much cheaper and easier. | ||
| Diablobrian |
yeah Starter....simle solutions to simple problems. I love it!  | ||
| Nd_xb |
Had to bring this post back from the dead. I have the same leak now, right at the bottom of the clutch inspection cover and I want to replace the gasket when I change the fluid soon, anyone have the gasket part number? | ||
| Jackbequick |
#25463-94A, GASKET, CLUTCH COV, $1.50 each. I picked one of those up the other day. That may be a Sportster number but it is the right gasket. The clutch cover screws were #943, BUTTON HEAD SCREW, $0.45 each. #41191-74A, SCREW, $1.50 is the primary inspection cover screw (without an O-ring, they were out of those). This looks like it is a polished stainless screw when may explain the cost. The SM calls the clutch cover gasket a "quad ring", it is more square in section than round. I press in firmly on the center of the cover while I put the screws in to keep the gasket evenly loaded. Take the screws down to a soft touch and then go 1/4 turn at a time until they are all tight. I don't go for the full torque value, I go to 1/2 of it and then maybe 10 in/lbs more because it "feels like enough" in that aluminum primary cover. Jack | ||
| Buellballs |
I have the same seepage on my new cityx. 2nd time I took it out to get more break-in milage on it I noticed a moist spot on post ride inspection. only 32 miles on odom. |
