Author |
Message |
Plys4fun
| Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 02:31 pm: |
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Just spoke to Al from American Sportbike and told him I was powder coating my rims. He suggested to replace the bearings and not put the old ones back in. Does anyone have any experience with this. I;m just looking for some feedback from other people that have done this before. Jon |
Glitch
| Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 02:32 pm: |
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Listen to Al. |
Plys4fun
| Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 02:35 pm: |
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Anyone know the part numbers? |
Road_thing
| Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 02:50 pm: |
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PLys4fun: Click here to look in the Knowledge Vault! You'll find the answers to most questions about part numbers and common problems and maintenance procedures there. rt |
Whitetrashxb
| Posted on Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 02:53 pm: |
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my bearings got pretty mangled when they were removed.. definately wouldn't want to reinstall 'em. Get new ones |
Court
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 04:50 am: |
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Listen to Al. |
Scitz
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 12:18 pm: |
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I was wanting to know do you have to use the bearing replacement tool if you plan on replacing the bearings. Is the tool only useful if you plan on reusing the bearing I should I use it the help keep from destroying the wheel when replacing? Also I found a link to a website that had ceramic bearing but I haven't been able to find the link again, if anyone know of a place with ceramic bearings please let me know. |
Glitch
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 12:52 pm: |
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Scitz, the tool is to pull the bearings. Ya gotta have it, it kills the bearings, but the wheel isn't harmed. (Message edited by Glitch on March 09, 2005) |
Halffast
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 12:55 pm: |
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The ceramic bearings are at http://www.nrhsperformance.com/newproducts.shtml |
Scitz
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 01:00 pm: |
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Thanks for the info. |
Gusmyster
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 01:23 pm: |
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How often do the wheel bearings need changed? g u s |
Fullpower
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 01:30 pm: |
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front 6005 rear 6006 |
Gusmyster
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 03:35 pm: |
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Not sure if this helps but here is a removal tool on ebay.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4532538314&ca tegory=35557 |
Scitz
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 03:40 pm: |
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Ironmachine.com is selling the tool on Ebay and you can also buy it directly off there site for the same price. I wish they would discount it when they put it on ebay. |
Captainplanet
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 04:07 pm: |
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You also need a press to use the bearing removal tool. One more thing I need for my shop, I guess. |
Scitz
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 04:16 pm: |
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After buying the bearings, removal tool, and press it may be cheaper to buy the ceramic bearings and have the dealer change them. The ceramic bearings cost more but they're said to last a lot longer. |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 09:23 pm: |
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I recently pulled the rear axle out on the shop XB-S and the rear bearing fell out on the ground. Tat had the wheels powdercoated at some point, so I know the bearings got yanked at least once, possibly twice, in the 8,000 miles on the bike. Bearings are press fit into the wheels. It is very important to do whatever you can to minimize trauma to that interference fit when removing and installing bearings, or your wheel is not long for this world. The only way to remove them is by pressure on the inner races. There is no way I would reuse a bearing that had the inner race pressed on in order to separate the interference fit at the outer race/wheel interface. Throw them away. For installation, the bearings should go in the freezer, the wheel in the sun or even oven, and the time to press them in should be minimized to prevent them from equalizing to the same temperature. Every time they go in and out forcibly, the press fit is diminished. I was hoping to get the specs and try to get bearings that had the same ID but a .010 or so over OD so I could salvage the wheel. Buell won't provide the bearing specs, citing liability reasons (understandable, but a bummer nonetheless). But it doesn't really matter, for unless I bought a LOT of bearings, I couldn't get them anyway. I know the NTN bearings in my wheels are C3 clearance, and are made in Taiwan, but I can't figure out if the Orange seal material is special, or just made orange to help administer the Bearing Performance Upgrade Program non-recall. If anyone knows about the seal material, I'd surely like to know too. I've seen bearings from Taiwan, China, France, Argentina, Turkey, and one of the slavic countries in Buell wheels over the years. But I've yet to see a Made in the USA or Made in Japan bearing in a Buell wheel. Sigh..... Al |
Timbo
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 09:46 pm: |
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Al, The ink rollers in our printing presses at our shop have the orange seal NTN bearings on them, so I don't think they are done just for Buell's administration purposes. However, we do put literally millions of impressions on them regularly (multiple millions of revolutions). And they are very similar in size and appearance to the ones in my XB's wheels. When Buell switched to the orange seal NTN's my first thought was "well, I KNOW those last". May just be the orange seal bearings are a higher grade, better rated bearing. |
Chris_mackay
| Posted on Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 11:42 am: |
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That's it then, I'm gonna paint my bike orange so it lasts longer! |
Fullpower
| Posted on Thursday, March 10, 2005 - 08:47 pm: |
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i told you: they are 6005 front and 6006 rear. obtainable at any industrial bearing supply in the country. also probably in stock at the auto electric rebuilder in the nearest small town. |
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