| Author | Message | ||
     Coastrambler |
Fired up the new motor (2010 crate motor) last night. Put 70 miles on it today. Felt really good. Had been down a long time. When I got home I reset the gearshift lever. Minor thing. Have CEL on full time. Most likely due to old motor and new motor start up. So. How so I clear the CEL? | ||
| Coastrambler |
Looks like I had a little stutter there. Anyway, just finished putting a 1.2K resister across the "Active Air Intake" leads. ECM now thinks solenoid is there. Initial indication is CEL is cleared. Will take it out for a ride later. Lunch time. On yesterdays ride I got 38.1mpg. Not bad on a new motor. Course I never went over 80 and held the revs down. | ||
| Squish |
Sounds good. | ||
| Exnorton |
I too am on the road again 1125R #234 8 years idle 711 miles on OD first service new tires | ||
| Exnorton |
sorry that was #237 | ||
| Coastrambler |
Regarding the CEL indicator. Noted a fuel pressure then system error before normal other indicators in IC. Checked around. Apparently you have to plug cable into fuel pressure sensor to get it to work. I'd noted the loose connector and thought it was for the stator "fix". Checked colors of the wires with schematic in book. So off with the airbox and plugged. No more CEL. Yahoo. Now gotta break it in. Going through a lot of oil so far, no leaks. | ||
| Coastrambler |
Am pronouncing new motor install done. All runs well. Now it's back to old Buell stuff. Have to top up coolant after every ride. Temp seems to hold. No long miles yet. Am pretty sure there is no air in cooling system. No leaks either. Tach acts odd at times. I idle at zero rpm and needle doesn't go over 3K. Then again works just fine. It did this before too. Any thoughts on the coolant matter? | ||
| Ceejay |
I’ve never even looked at my coolant other than when I first got the bike-checked the level and freeze protection and left it alone for the past 6k miles. Temp readout never shown above 205, and usually around 190. Manual states 3l capacity so maybe you weren’t quite there yet? How are vibrations with the 2010 motor - since you’re still breaking it in you may not have gotten into the higher revs though. I’m curious to find out if the 2010 motors might vibrate less. | ||
| Coastrambler |
Haven't noticed any difference in vibrations. It does run smooth. Have only had a few opportunities to open it up. Power feels really good. Course it was down 2.5 years, so my memories are suspect. The '09 motor had some cooling issues. Nothing like what I'm seeing now. It is getting better though. I remember the 1125 introduction session at Laguna Seca. Watching the factory riders do a few laps, come in and add coolant, then repeat that. They didn't let us civilians ride the 1125's due to on and off rain. So I did a track day on my Street Rod, worked well on the wet track. That's the V-Rod St Rod, not that thing that came out a few years ago. Still have The Rod. | ||
| Ceejay |
I doubt any 1125 will be as smooth as a vrod, and that was probably pretty fun running a bike like that around the course. Thanks for the info. I can definitely feel the cylinder pulses on my 08. Not bad at the 4K rpm I typically ride around at - when I twist it up to 8-10.5k is a different story and my feet will almost vibrate off the pegs. After about two hours my finger tips have the numb feeling and I’ve put lead shot (7-8) in the bar while also having bar ends. Thus the reason I ask, as it might be cheaper to try a newer build motor than to buy a different bike. They are stupid fun to ride, and I’ve yet to see another one in my travels which is kind of neat as well, but if I can’t figure out how to quell the vibrations I’ll very likely end on another bike sooner than I anticipated. | ||
| Stevel |
The vibration you are experiencing is not normal. Your engine is not correctly balanced. If you want to fix it, remove your crank, one piston with rings and a con rod and send them to Marine Crankshaft in Ca. to be balanced. | ||
| Coastrambler |
Yah. That level of vibration sounds excessive. I feel like 1125 and V-Rod are very similar in that respect. Revved the motor up a bit today. To this point I've stayed not much over 4K. I then see coolant blow out on muffler. Getting to higher revs I saw significant coolant coming from higher in motor. Like higher revs gets higher pressure in cooling system. Like a hose is loose or abt to blow. I feel a motor rotation in my future. Will pull airbox and throttle body first. See what I can see. It does pull strong and smooth. | ||
| Coastrambler |
Came across some interesting info last night. An eBay seller selling 2010 1125 water pump says they are upgraded from 2009 unit. Better seals and oiling. So I'm wondering what other changes there are. Do I need a higher pressure cap? And where to find info. Anybody have a link to 2010 motor specs? | ||
| Ceejay |
Maybe I’ll make that a winter project - balancing the engine, but for now I’ll just enjoy it as is. I haven’t heard anything about an upgraded water pump. I was considering switch the cooling system to the 1190 style via parts that LAP has for sale. While I didn’t look at the water pump specifically, many of the parts were “updated” which meant that they had version numbers. I don’t know if they were just new part numbers with same part or same part, new company or new part (revised) but it may be worth it to look into. (Message edited by Ceejay on August 06, 2021) | ||
| Coastrambler |
Am still looking for why it spits coolant. If I keep RPM's low it spits far less. Exhaust is dry, no steam and oil is coolant free. So blown head gasket is unlikely. Am now checking my hoses and clamps, again. Manual shows a "thermostat bleed hose". It connects to back of thermostat case, nothing shows where other end connects. I see nothing about it the writeup. Looking for ideas. | ||
| Stevel |
Richard, I think you're chasing your tail. I'm pretty sure you have a leaking head gasket. The open deck cylinder design is the weakest part of that engine's design. | ||
| Ceejay |
Hey Coast, that bleeder tube is probably the source of your coolant dumping issue. I was just in there for something else and while I couldn’t get any decent angle to photograph it’s definitely supposed to be hooked up. Mine takes a sharp 90 degree bend towards the front of the bike and hooks into a manifold of some sort between the cylinders just below the main feed to the water pump from the cylinders. I hope that makes sense. | ||
| Coastrambler |
Thanks guys. Traced thermostat bleeder hose back to top of right side radiator. Am reluctantly thinking it's a blown head gasket. Major repair. Hate to think a motor with less than a 1,000 miles blew that gasket. | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
3,000 miles on mine and leaking somewhere. Been sitting idle for about five years. Walked in the garage a few months ago and there was a puddle of coolant under the bike. Maybe there is an issue with non use that causes it. Maybe the head bolts need retorqued. | ||
| Coastrambler |
OK, rotated the motor down last week. Found the mechanic had not tightened a clamp on one of the cylinder hoses. Tightened it. Also, had noted earlier signs of leakage from crossover pipe. Put a new clamp on each end. Got the bike back in running order yesterday. Took it out for a 55 mile run today. Made a 15 mile uphill run, mostly in 3rd gear. Ambient temp at top was 90F. Bike indicated 212F for awhile, went to 217 along mostly level 5mi stretch. Downhill run on different road, mostly in 5th or 6th gear, ambient temp dropped to 70F at bottom. Coolant temp was 189F when I hit edge of town. Went up a little going through town. Checked coolant level when I got home. It was same as when I started. Now consider it ready for regular use, at last. | ||
| Ceejay |
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| Stimbrell |
Good outcome, glad for you. |
