| Author | Message | ||
     Dxg |
Replacing my 1125R aftermarket mirrors with OEM mirrors I got from a member here. Unfortunately he is not the original owner. Apparently a previous owner replaced the pivot bolts with plain bolts and nuts and that doesn't work. Tightening the bolts/nuts makes it impossible to fold the mirrors. I'd appreciate any info, pictures, hints, etc. as to what the factory bolt arrangement is so I can try to duplicate. Thanks. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Sounds like that is normal to me, they will only fold with a good bit of force, if no one else has a photo I will post some in the next day or two. | ||
| Dxg |
Thanks. I will wait for photos. Much appreciated. Having measured and observed everything closely I don't think it's a simple bolt and nut. But I would love to be wrong, would make my job much easier. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Here you go, it is riveted not a bolt so you are right.   | ||
| Dxg |
Thank you. It starts to make sense now. Can you tell me if you see a wave washer or similar spring under the shoulder of the rivet, either top or bottom? What you can't see unless you take it apart is that the two discs that form the joint are not smooth on the mating surfaces. They have an indexing feature, raised on one disc and lowered on the other. So in order to rotate the arm (fold the mirror), one disc has to have room to "climb" out of those grooves. That can't be done with a hard tight joint. It has to have some kind of spring loaded slack of about 1/8".  | ||
| Stimbrell |
The spring washer is on the bottom.  | ||
| Dxg |
Great. Thank you very much. For anyone interested, I will attempt to duplicate the OEM setup and post my results. | ||
| Dxg |
Ok, finally got it done and posting results for anyone who needs to do this. I can't imagine why anyone would take apart the factory riveted joint, but at least one person did it (the PO of my mirrors) so perhaps there is a legit reason for it. You will want to use M10-1.25 bolts 30 or 35mm long. Button head bolts are best but any heads that don't stick up too much will work. Use washers on both sides and a wave washer on the bottom. Then use a nylock nut dialed just tight enough to barely be able to fold the mirror. And no tighter. Purple (low strength) Loctite optional. | ||
| Stevel |
The problem with the design is that the disc spring was too weak. In 2009, the mirrors used a stronger spring and that worked much better than the weaker 2008 mirrors, as the wind would blow the mirror out of position. In both cases the mirrors were mounted too far inboard to provide the rider a good rear would view. In other words, they are useless. Only a view view camera fixes the issue. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
I used a regular hex head 1/4"-20 bolt and it worked great. Another mod for these mirrors was to RTV the mirror itself to the housing. This would stiffen it and reduce vibration. The plastic that the mirror is mounted to can be sanded down around the edges to get a little more adjustment. | ||
| Stimbrell |
I went the route of fitting Firebolt long stemmed mirrors and relocating the turn signals to the marker lights. Works well for me. | ||
| 34nineteen |
What I did to help mute the vibration on my 1125CR mirrors was to get pieces of closed cell foam and put it behind the mirrors. It seemed to work pretty well. Not perfect, but much better than before. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
My '08 had the weak spring mirrors. As mentioned previously, they would fold in slightly at speed. I replaced the springs with bolts too. Later, I picked up a set of mirrors from an '09, which had springs that were strong enough to keep the mirrors out when riding but still allow them to be folded in. |
