| Author | Message | ||
     Cupcake_mike |
I've had my 09 CR for a few months, bought from second owner with about 13k. I've put about 1000 miles on it with no problems. On the way to work this morning at 5:15, i'm about 12 miles from home, stop at the intersection to make a left hand turn onto the highway and it dies (the bars weren't turned at the time). Weird, I think, but no CEL or anything so I thumb the starter and it starts right back up, again no CEL or anything, I let the clutch out and it dies again, but this time I get a "Crank position sensor" trouble code across the screen. So, I think "that sounds expensive" and I turn around and walk it over to the shoulder. Cycle the ignition and no CEL, so I thumb the starter again, no problem, fires right up. Let the clutch out and it dies again, but the error code is now "throttle position sensor". I walk it a mile or 2 up the road to the (luckily) highway patrol station to leave it for the day. I try one more time to start it and same thing, dies as I let the clutch out, error this time is "Baro sensor". I called for a lift back to the house and got my car to come to work because my job is essential and there's not a lot of folks that can easily fill in for me on no notice. I have done absolutely no diagnosing other than pulling the seat and making sure no signs of magic smoke have escaped (everything looks normal). Any wild ass guess what I might be seeing? I'm leaning towards ECM failure just based on the assortment of sensor errors I am seeing. The ECM is a race only the original owner installed, even though the only upgrade done to it is a K&N air filter, I am assuming this was done to "fix" the low rpm rideability issues I have heard these things have stock. I have the stock ECM and I will swap that first to see if it fix the issues. Interested to hear if anyone might have some insight, but this is mostly just a venting session. (Message edited by cupcake_mike on June 30, 2020) | ||
| Mhpalin |
Hi Mike try unplugging the wires going into the clutch lever this might help | ||
| Two_seasons |
I'm with Mhpalin, it's a simple fix. Only use was to keep you from thumbing the starter in gear! If you keep your RPM's above 3500, low speed bucking will diminish substantially. Looking forward to seeing your new bike soon  | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
How would you explain the random error codes if its just the clutch switch? I'll try unplugging it tonight, regardless. I wish I had an international bike because it sure seems like the sidestand switch could be the culprit (except for the random error codes). I'm 50 miles away at work, thinking. (Message edited by cupcake_mike on June 30, 2020) (Message edited by cupcake_mike on June 30, 2020) (Message edited by cupcake_mike on July 01, 2020) | ||
| Stevel |
I think you have either a battery problem or a battery connection or ground connection issue. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Tore into it and it appears to be a relatively easy fix. So, the previous owner must've pulled the air filter base plate to look at some stuff and just reinstalled the plate without putting the sensors or throttle body gasket back in place. So, baro, IAT, and everything else that could be smashed against the engine was. Explains why the the ambient air temp, according to the dash, was 235 degrees the last time the engine died! I can't believe that it took this long to manifest itself, as I have ridden it around thousand miles, although mostly it was in cooler temps so who knows, maybe the sensors just finally settled down into the hot recesses of the engine. To add insult to injury, when I went to pick up the bike, the (original) starter on my 64 dodge pickup went out after I had loaded up the bike and was attempting to leave. So, that made for a fun night waiting for a tow truck after working a 13 hr shift. Anyway, I got home and put the bike battery on the charger, fixed the sensors and gasket and stuff and cleared the codes. I ran a few miles down the road with no problems, but didn't want to go further until the starter on my truck is fixed in-case it shits the bed again. -Mike | ||
| Two_seasons |
so...that means you'll be here for breakfast?...on the "new" bike? | ||
| Mhpalin |
Right on Mike great to see it was a easy fix once it was figured out  | ||
| Two_seasons |
Frankly, based on the totality of all this data, I'm of the opinion that the EBR bikes are more reliable. My opionion. You, Erik Buell, are a true innovator. I should have bought that 1190RS that you talked with me about. Thanks for all of your visions, realality of every bike you helped produce. Truly makes my life more interesting! | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Steve, I wish, buddy. I might be able to sneak away for a couple days for homecoming, but no guarantees...it'll be down to the wire. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
so, i was wrong about my issue, it came back, but i figured it out! You know that bundle of 3 wires behind the engine pully that runs to the kick stand sensor, which isn't connected to anything on US bikes? Well, it fits in a little groove in the plastic pully cover and if it isn't in that cover then the wires run against the belt and, even though the sensor isn't used or even turned on in the ecm, one of those wires is a ground that is shared with the ECM and all those sensors i mentioned earlier. This short to ground makes the whole system "wig" out causing the problems i noted above. This is also why the thing ran perfectly with normal coolant temps for 20 min in my shop, but once i rolled it outside, it wouldn't start and temps were all over the place and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. I shortened those wires up (out of the danger zone) and triple insulated them, then rode the bike for 175 miles without even a hiccup. In the midst of this mindf$ck i did buy one of these, really seems unnecessary now that i have the uly and cr back to operable status, since the ftr seems to be the angry drunken love child of those 2, but I'll still keep it   | ||
| Shoggin |
Sweet ride man. I like those! |
