| Author | Message | ||
     Duanelr |
I've heard of rear OEM wheel bearings failing so I took the preemptive measure of installing new All Balls bearings. Fast forward 18 months, maybe 12,000 miles, and my original belt breaks. I replace it, ride on it for two more months, then I have a catastrophic wheel bearing failure.WTF? I was in the outback of Eastern Oregon and stranded. Why why why? Questions: Is it worth seeking out a three-bearing-rear-wheel? Is there a better bearing than All Balls? What precautions should I take when installing the new belt? (you know, so that it's lined up and not putting excessive tension on the bearings)  What you can't see in this picture is that I'm 150 miles from home and in the middle of nowhere. (Message edited by duanelr on July 01, 2019) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
This story is so familiar I had to double check it wasn't my thread a few months ago! I had the same bearing failure shortly after a belt change as well. I managed to ruin my rear wheel, which really sucked. roI heard All Balls bearing suck balls. Hopefully you didn't damage your wheel as your picture looks eerily similar to the one I took of my destroyed wheel bearing. I heard bad things about All Balls bearings. I have a set of new front and rear bearings on the shelf. I ended up sourcing good quality bearing locally and the cost was still less than OEM (quality is better than OEM). Did you have any warning from the bearings failing? I had a screeching-type of noise when I leaning a certain direction. I couldn't figure out the source until the bearing went out. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
some info & P/Ns for 3 bearing wheel...try and find a parts manual on line for a '09 or newer...not only do you have to buy a wheel, but you need bearings and a new axle as well. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/707470.html?1364606689 I've had the same issue on my '08 and noticed it with an initial tire change...used some loctite that "fills voids" to install new bearings (sorry, don't have the loctite P/N) ...as for replacement bearings I used a brand named Koyo...here's and old thread with P/Ns: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/651540.html?1382144373 hth | ||
| Stimbrell |
I replaced my 2009 rear with one of the three bearing wheels, from HD, which I sprayed phantom black, boy did that get expensive fast! I do not know why but these bikes eat the front wheel bearings quickly too. What I do now is carefully remove the seal from the bearings whenever I change a tire and repack the bearing with "Lucas X-tra heavy duty grease", rear you can only access the two outside bearings, so far I have yet to have another bearing failure. I am in the UK so bike sees a lot of rain. | ||
| Willmrx |
I wouldn't even use All Balls bearings on a hamster wheel? Again, you get what you pay for. | ||
| Duanelr |
Thanks for the replies. Are there steps I can take to ensure the new belt will be properly tensioned? How do I stop this from happening again? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
There is no adjustment for tension on the 1125 bikes. I think the new belts are just tight, which puts more strain on the bearings. Old and/or cheap bearings are prone to failure with a new belt. I think it's safe to conclude this with so many similar stories floating around. Your best bet is to buy some above average bearings and keep and eye (and ear) on them. The bearings are standard and can be had at virtually any decent bearing shop. (Message edited by fresnobuell on July 02, 2019) | ||
| Shoggin |
Instead of just blaming the part that failed. Look at maybe WHY it failed. I have found that when you have pre-mature bearing failure you should check the length dimension of the aluminum bearing spacer in the wheel. The go/no-go tolerance is TINY,. One ham fisted mechanic over-torquing the wheel ONCE can squish it out of spec and every set of bearings after that will have excessive side loading. Roller ball bearings HATE that. I have had very good luck with the All Balls brand, but I also change bearings with every tire change. Why not? They NEVER fail in the garage on a warm night when you have free time....  | ||
| Pwillikers |
Do any of you gentlemen have the bearing size information (09 1125CR w/two bearings)? I'll buy the best I can find and keep them on the shelf ready for the next tire change. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Be extremely careful with that. Every bearing change puts wear on the bearing seat - it wears and hogs out the opening in the wheel, where the bearing presses in. Too much wear, and the bearing will fall right in. Or out. I don't know what I'm doing right, or not doing wrong, but I have yet to have a bearing failure - 10k on my CR, not gentle. Nearly 40k on my 06 Uly. I know Uly failure rates are high - I still think that's because it's so easy to load the Uly waaaaaay beyond the max weight rating, more than any belt or power issues, but that's just me. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
The bearings for our bikes are standard automotive bearings. The front wheel uses size 6005 and the rear 6006. I purchased Nachi brand locally, since it's getting hard and expensive to find the Buell KBC bearings. Nice to have a permanent alternative. Nachi is supposed to be middle of the road Japanese brand. I was told they are superior to the Buell KBC-branded bearings (which was the upgrade from the orange seal bearings that were fitted originally on the 1125R.) Nachi 6005 2NSE9 C3 (Front) $14.34 ea Nachi 6006 2NSE9 C3 (Back) $17.89 ea YMMV. | ||
| Zachp |
If you want quality buy these Boca Bearing Company 1420 Neptune Dr. Suite A Boynton Beach, Fl 33426 800-332-3256 Front Bearing (25x47x12)PT# -(MR6005C-2BS/TP/C3 #5 UDL/SRL) 67.46ea Rear Bearing (30x55x13)PT# -(MR6006C-2BS/TP/C3 #5 UDL/SRL) 80.96ea | ||
| Xbuell12s |
Are those ceramic bearings? Do you have details on what makes them hold up better? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Ceramic bearings are better than steel in all aspects but no real advantage in this instance. Unless you do a lot of down hill coasting and trying to save fuel. A better upgrade is 3 bearing wheel. Ceramic bearings are great in skateboards, fishing reels, bicycles etc... (Message edited by terrys1980 on March 12, 2020) | ||
| Tribalreaper |
Ceramic bearings are said to offer reduced friction, lower weight and improved longevity. ... A ceramic bearing is also harder than steel bearings (up to 30%), which improves durability, and they also don't rust so less maintenance should be required. | ||
| Ruans187 |
Didn't know 1125s have the Wheel bearing issue. I thought it was only XBs.  | ||
| Ruans187 |
Didn't know 1125s have the Wheel bearing issue. I thought it was only XBs. | ||
| Shoggin |
Same wheel, same bearing, more power. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Merry Christmas... here's an old post on the subject....scroll down for a second link for discussions on ceramic....hth http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/651540.html | ||
| Shoggin |
Bearings get the blame because it's the part that failed, but thats a bit narrow sighted It makes sense there is a correlation of replacing the belt and having pre-mature bearing failure, not from additional tightness of a new belt (like its was OE without an issue...) but instead, the VERY common practice of over-torquing the axle nut. It only takes ONE ham fisted tire guy to dugga dugga dugga crush that aluminum spacer. Once that aluminum tube is shortened, the outer bearing race contacts the inner face of the wheel hub, then the axle is SIDE-LOADING the inner race. BAM! Early failure. Even at (post) proper torque levels. The spacers are cheap and FWIW I used to have plenty of bearing issues with several Buells and have NEVER had a problem since replacing the sleeve with the SAME BRAND of bearings. Specs and procedure are identical to an XB: 25ft/lbs, (then I spin the wheel), back off 2 turns, 50 ft/lbs. Page 6-52. http://buellmods.com/content/downloads/manuals/112 5/1125_service_manual.pdf Torque wrenches are cheap, 50 ft/lbs isn't very much, and IMHO a person not using one... shouldn't be working on any machine that can strand you. Or kill you. YMMV. (Message edited by shoggin on December 12, 2020) | ||
| 1125rr |
One reminder/suggestion you guys probably know if replacing wheel (or most) bearings, in regard to hogging out the hole: Heat. I've swapped bearings on an alloy wheel where I tried the fit beforehand, when all parts were ambient temperature, and it was very tight...same wheel placed over my electric stove burner for a few minutes (careful of paint of course) and the bearing literally dropped right in. Was very tight again once cooled, that much of a difference. Many machine shops will freeze the inner parts beforehand as well, something not necessary but helps everything go smoothly to leave them in the freezer overnight. The aluminum wheel should expand more and quicker than the bearing, so even heating the hub before removal should aid that process. |
