| Author | Message | ||
     Coastrambler |
Am getting set to rotate motor. Need access to rear cylinder cams. Am at point of removing the muffler. (Am using Service Manual as a guide) Can't see how to remove front muffler mounting bolts. Left one nut spins and don't see how to hold it. Right side exhaust pipe blocks getting to bolt. Am now looking to remove oil cooler to access these bolts. If anybody knows the drill, please let me know. This all due to an awful banging noise from motor. Can feel vibration in rear cylinder. All started when motor backfired. After that have the noise. Motor does run, low power. No codes. Drained oil today. Found small chunk of metal on plug. | ||
| Willmrx |
You are looking at a major repair on the engine! So you are most likely going to have to remove the engine. So the oil cooler is going to be removed anyways. God speed! | ||
| D_adams |
There used to be a write-up on this that I did probably 10 years ago, had pictures of the entire removal process. 13mm craftsman open end wrench will slide in and catch the nut. If it misses the flats of the nut, turn the allen wrench with the open end wrench pushed against it, it will fall onto the nut. | ||
| Stevel |
You should be looking for a replacement engine. I am afraid the damage in the rear cylinder will require both head and cylinder replacement. No oversize pistons were ever offered for this engine. These are not rebuildable in the traditional sense.............it is not a Chevrolet! | ||
| Willmrx |
I completely rebuilt my 2008 engine last year. I had it back fire on start up causing the timing chain to jump a tooth and Mr piston had some contact with Mr valve. It really isn't that big of a deal to rebuild it. I had to take the cases to a Harley dealer to press in the new crank bearings, other than that, you can do everything and get E bay parts if needed. I have rebuilt Suzuki, Honda, Mitsubishi, Ford, Hodaka, and a Buell 1125r but no Chevy yet, but I am planning on rebuilding my Tahoe at the end of this year, 280k on it. Plus there is a lot of helpful people here to give you a hand. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Dean's pictures on rotation http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/727778.html?1386713255 in this post is a link to a video http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/669669.html?1330437943 hth | ||
| Coastrambler |
Pulling motor out of frame is an idea that had occurred. If piston is toast whole job gets a lot bigger. Will see. Making a Harbor Freight run Monday to get a cheap set of combo wrenches. Will chop one short to get into muffler bolt space. | ||
| Stevel |
Willmrx, I hate it when folks shoot from the hip. I will again repeat myself............there are no oversize pistons or oversize crank bearings available for this engine. They were never made by anyone. You could not have rebuilt this motor. I believe you repaired the motor by being able to use standard size parts. Normally when there is an argument for space between a valve and a piston occurs, there will be piston and bore damage at the very least. Yes, you can buy custom pistons. A CP billet is just under $400 each, a proper forging is only available in Europe and they are around $1000 each. If you have a worn crank, it cannot be reground because there are no oversize bearings. You will need a replacement crank. The only thing that might be available on eBay is used parts and maybe NOS OEM standard parts. That's why I recommended a replacement engine..........because it is less expensive. | ||
| Willmrx |
Shooting from the hip here! But let's agree to disagree. My personal first hand experience, as well as the math on the amount of money I spent on parts for the rebuild, a little over $800 including new pistons with rings. The money is not in the parts for the rebuild, it is in the upgrades,(rotor, stator,regulator, 3 bearing rear wheel), I got two NOS complete gasket set with valve seals for $135 each. Plus, I now have a fresh motor with no worries about what the PO put it through. (Message edited by Willmrx on April 15, 2019) | ||
| D_adams |
Man, so much wrong info there. Not sure what century you grew up in, but I can rebuild just about anything in the 20th century. If parts aren't available, I can either make them myself or have them made to my specs. | ||
| Stevel |
D adams, OK, maybe you know more than I do. Of course you can make most all replacement parts as one off parts. I know this myself because I have done it, but as stated above, these are very expensive, but please tell me where I can buy oversize/custom bearing shells in small quantities? I have been looking for many years now, both in Europe and the US with no luck. Perhaps you know the OEMs for these ROTAX parts? If so buddy, step up, let us know. I have sources for most custom parts, including what I can make myself, I have a machine shop, but I have no source for bearing shells, cam shaft castings and many other items. | ||
| Willmrx |
Why not just get a used crankshaft, cylinders and pistons from Ebay? There are a bunch of low mileage engine parts out there. My engine had about 50,000 miles on it when I rebuilt it, the cylinders and the crankshaft were all within factory manual specs, even with valve piston contact, the cylinders were fine. I now have close to 7000 miles on the rebuild and I ride it like I stole it! | ||
| Shoggin |
I see complete low mile EBR 1190 engines on e-bay for less than $2k all the time. I'm used to engine rebuilds in cars and motorcycles, and I'm not rich but a complete one seems like the easiest, fastest, way to get me out riding again. Then part out the old one, cash win! | ||
| Shoggin |
With pistons/cylinders/crank you're probably half of what a low-mile engine costs anyway, and you'll still have an old transmission and everything else in yours... | ||
| Willmrx |
Has there been any issues with the transmissions failing on the 1125R? And $800 on parts, minus, $2000 on a engine = $1200 in my wallet. The math just worked in my favor,is my math wrong? | ||
| Coastrambler |
Got the cam cover off, nothing obvious wrong there. So. Am now thinking I need a crankshaft locking tool and a cam blocking tool. Want to see if crank and cams are in proper sequence. Am wondering if timing chain jumped a tooth. Anybody steer me to such? | ||
| D_adams |
I have both available if you need them. | ||
| Willmrx |
The same thing happened to me! The bike had been sitting for about a month, hit the starter switch and it turned over a couple of times and then, Bang it backfired! Tried again and it started! But it sounded like there where rocks in the rear cylinder. Bottom line, you are looking at replacing all of the worn or damaged parts. I guess the question is, how much time and money do you want to spend? Just to help you deal with your anxiety level. I must assure you, that there are many people on this forum that will help you get back on your Buell! I know this first hand! | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Just to help you deal with your anxiety level. LOL. I think you probably just sent his anxiety level thru the roof if you are saying his motor is seriously damaged... I have 2009 for sale cheap! | ||
| Stevel |
Coastrambler, Be prepared for a large bill. The motor is hurt and all the advice you receive on this forum is BS and conjecture, including mine. The reason is simple, nobody knows what is exactly wrong until the motor is disassembled. The correct way to do this is to remove frame from the motor, not the other way around. Then put the motor on a bench and then take it apart. When that is done, take pictures and get back to us on the forum | ||
| Willmrx |
Stevel, you just gave me a idea for a tattoo! I am going to get Bullshit And Conjecture tattooed across my chest in MS 13 font! (Message edited by Willmrx on April 24, 2019) | ||
| Shoggin |
A borescope is an inexpensive way to start the diagnosis without a complete teardown. You'll know if hard engine bits were touching each other in an inappropriate manner. | ||
| Coastrambler |
Am taking this slow. Am real low on funds for this. So far under $20, tools at Harbor Freight. And I've 2 bikes that are running right. Borescope idea is good. Will look into it. How hard should it be to turn the crank by hand? Am in 3rd gear and can't get any motion by trying to turn the output pully. |
