| Author | Message | ||
     Fred_is_not_me |
I have replaced the stator and rotor only in the 1125cr. I still seem to have issues with charging as the dash light eventually disappears and the speedometer stops working. Could be unrelated, but it sucks running around on this machine thinking your bike is going to overheat and fail on you even after the change. The purpose of this post is the ask the following question  : Do we have a definitive answer on whether you should "undo" the HD fix only after you update with new stator and EBR rotor? I would like to be able to run this bike at lower rpms on long highway rides and not have to worry about the battery being drained. I'm also using a Shorai battery so it is tiny and tons of maintenance. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Did you replace the voltage regulator? Shindengan SH847; series V/R instead of the Ducati shunt V/R currently on the bike. And yes, you can remove the Harley fix. | ||
| Fred_is_not_me |
I didn't do voltage regulator. Is it a necessity? I know we can remove the Harley fix , but is that the best practice considering the fixes I have done? | ||
| Trendkillkustoms |
The CE 605SB regulator is what I have, and have read several articles on them. Only downside is the size and necessity for constant air flow, so on these bikes, it is necessary to mount them external of the body. I did like most and made a custom license plate/regulator bracket under the seat. There are threads in the archive with photos of the unit and mounting. I so far, knock on metal, have not had any issues with it. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Replace the V/R; series regulators handle excess charge and heat much better than the stock shunt type regulator; you should check out the charging sub section | ||
| Joe7bros |
Here: Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum Last post to this section was 04/27/2018 | ||
| Stevel |
For those uninformed. Automotive alternators have V/rs that control the excitation current that builds the magnetic field that generates current in the alternator windings. The net result is that the automotive alternator only makes the energy required. On a motorcycle, the magnetic field of the rotor is generated by permanent magnets. So, the alternator is always making maximum energy required or not. The shunt regulators (standard)regulate by dumping the excess energy to earth in a load parallel to bike system, hence the word shunt. A series regulator controls the energy from the stator coils by controlling the duty cycle of the stator coils' connections by switching them into and out of the circuit. This allows the net energy of the alternator to be controlled, but not its peak current. Peak coil current would be the same as in a shunt system, but because the coils are not always in circuit, the average energy out will only be what the bike system needs. Yes, the switching transistors do get warm, but no where near as much heat has to be shed as with a shunt regulator. So not only do series regulators run cooler, they extract less horsepower from the crankshaft as well. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Stevel--What is the best voltage regulator to replace my stock one? | ||
| Stevel |
All the series V/Rs are good, but many use the Shindengan SH847, even me. | ||
| Panshovevo |
An anonymous tech person at EBR told me that anything other than the stock rectifier/regulator will give you problems...that was over a year ago, and I haven’t looked at the EBR parts pages to see if they still exist. I bought a rec/reg on Amazon for under $85 that looks identical to the original, and has the proper connectors. I installed it on the ‘08 R model, but haven’t put many miles on it. I bought an SH847 for the ‘09 CR, but as the bike is apart for upgrades, haven’t installed it. | ||
| Panshovevo |
The EBR parts pages are still up, for anyone who didn’t know. http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/ | ||
| Deanh8 |
So if I have the EBR rotor mod and my bike also had the HD fix, what are the pros and cons of leaving the HD fix in. | ||
| Robertl |
If I remember correctly the HD fix disabled/bypassed 1 of the circuits in the charging system which reduced the heat in hopes of saving the stator or just extending its life some. The whole point of the updated charging system in 09+ was to address the weak charging system. The "fix" is more of a temp hack. The best and only real solution: rotor upgrade, new stator (unless the miles are really low it is already partially damaged), and removing the fix. Test or replace the rectifier if needed. Some will argue but TwinCycles and EBR will confirm the solution. Others, often with low miles or a new stator, get by just fine with the series regulator because it does work better and reduce heat. Probably depends a lot on riding style and outside temps. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
OK, someone remind me why the 08s are ok electrically, but the 09s suffer from burning up stators? | ||
| Joe7bros |
Fresno, HD decided the 1125s did not suit their clientele and the bikes needed to produce more juice; only they failed to account for added heat from the greater stator output. Also, I believe all post 2008 bikes suffer from stator failure. And for Robert, if you have updated the stator/rotor/voltage regulator, you should remove the HD fix, otherwise your charging system will not put out full power. | ||
| Froggy |
09s had insufficient cooling to the stator at RPMs most people ride at on the street, causing them to burn up. The EBR rotor fixes that. | ||
| Froggy |
Joe, the early 08s had problems with bikes becoming discharged. There was a handful of reasons for this including a bug in the instrument cluster firmware. As part of a shotgun solution, Buell put a bigger/higher output stator in for the 09s. Having a 09 doesn't automatically mean you will have stator issues, those that keep the RPMs high (usually track riders) won't have the issue as the cooling issues only happen at lower RPMs (typical cruising speeds) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Thanks for the info guys. I knew this at one time, but since I have an '09 collecting dust in the garage I wanted some clarification. PS, my '08 was an early one and it had the mysterious battery discharging instrument cluster. I remember Blake and I got into serious arguments over that one. Good thing is I got an '09 cluster on warranty, which is slightly improved IMHO with the gear indicator. (Message edited by fresnobuell on August 16, 2018) | ||
| Robertl |
Don't quote me on this one, but I think they added a 3rd winding to the stator. That "fix" bypassed the extra winding; therefore, reducing output and heat. It wasn't just the 1125s that were impacted. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
So does this mean the "fix" effectively put the electrical output back to the '08 spec? I was under the impression the "fix" wasn't totally effective, so were there other factors that caused stators to fail post-"fix"? | ||
| Coastrambler |
That's sort of it. '09 stators have 3 windings connected together in a delta pattern. That is the end of each connects to the end of another at each end. This makes it a 3 phase unit. The '08s were 2 phase. '08s had marginal output for a street bike. The additional output from the 3 phase units helped with any added stuff, like heated handgrips. They also overheated. Both themselves and the voltage regulator. So, HD put in their "fix". It opens one of the three output leads. This cuts out 2 phases. Not ideal, to say the least. Best fix, IMHO, is a series regulator. | ||
| Oldog |
rambler I believe you are wrong, the early stater is 3 ph, they did not burn up because of their lower output. | ||
| Froggy |
All 1125s are three phase, the 2008s were 32 amp, the 2009s increased that to 37 amp. The "fix" drops you down to a single phase setup by occasionally disconnecting one of the three legs, leaving only one phase functional. This cooled off the stator by reducing heat output, but also reduced the power output which caused other running issues. | ||
| Coastrambler |
oldog You're likely right. I only really know much about '09s, unfortunately. Even with the increased output the system was still almost OK. I had 18.000 miles on a stock setup. Dealer repair did not even put heat sink grease between the VR and its mounting pad. When that VR failed I installed a series VR. Forget how many miles that's been now. Sometimes think of adding a hour meter. Run time is also of interest. |
