I bought a new belt for my '09CR a while back when it had 25,000 miles because that's the recommended replacement interval. On close inspection I was confident that the belt was quite good so I didn't bother replacing it, I just kept an eye on it.
Now at 32,000 miles the fuel gauge sending unit (thermistor) died so, since I had to pull the swing arm off to get to the fuel pump, I decided to replace the belt whether it's needed or not (it's not needed - the old belt still looks quite good but I replaced it anyway).
FYI, as an aside, there's a thread on badweb with instructions for soldering in a thermistor from another model Buell instead of replacing the entire fuel pump assembly on the 1125 when the thermistor dies. This is what I did and it worked very well.
The new belt was really difficult to get on. I had to remove the idler pulley just to get the belt over the rear sprocket, then on and off again with the pulley just to get the threads on the rear axle started. I again replaced the idler pulley, which was a real bitch with the belt quasi-tight, and ran the axle the rest of the way in. The belt is on now and is AS TIGHT AS A GUITAR STRING!
Is this consistent with others experience? Should the belt be this tight?
Here's a very short video of me plucking the belt (guitar string?). Turn up your volume. It is rather quiet.
The new belt has developed some surface cracks of which I'll post pictures. They don't look worth worrying about but I thought I'd post the pics just in case.
thanks for posting this Pwillikers. I'm putting on new tires on my 1125R.. and thought I'd put a new belt on while i was at it and keep the old one as a spare (as some here have recommended). My old belt looks ok. I've never done a belt swap, so I'm afraid I'm no help, but will definitely be following your thread...
Belts in general are tight when new, and stretch with use. If you check the BB&D Ulysses forum you'll find the standard practice of pulling a good used belt off and saving it as a "roadside spare" because they're easier to install when they're pre-stretched. I carry a used belt on my Uly in case of breakage on the road.
The breakage issue doesn't seem to exist outside of the long-travel swingarm / weight-overloaded-because-of-huge-luggage on the Ulysses, so don't go freaking out and carrying a spare belt on your 1125. I have FACTORY belts on both my 1995 S2 and my 1998 S1W; the breakage issue seems to be a Ulysses "feature".
I just did this a couple weekends ago. First time for me changing a belt ever.
I think you shouldn't have taken the axle all the way out. Loosen it 15 turns per the service manual and its almost out, but still partially threaded. This makes tightening the wheel much easier at the end.
I actually had the most difficult time getting the new belt over the drive sprocket in front. And I also didn't realize the idler pulley had a nut on the other side, so I thought I had stripped it when it just spun without loosening.
All in all, I actually thought it was a pretty easy process and certainly would be a piece of cake after the first time.
Mine was relatively tight, but not as tight as yours. I also let mine sit in a warm garage for a day before the job.
Just a thought (as I'm in a similar situation regarding belt replacement), if the belt is that tight I would ensure that you drive it easy for a few hundred miles before really getting into it - allowing the belt to break-in and stretch a bit to aid in durability.
Just a thought (as I'm in a similar situation regarding belt replacement), if the belt is that tight I would ensure that you drive it easy for a few hundred miles before really getting into it - allowing the belt to break-in and stretch a bit to aid in durability.
Good luck! I thought the same thing, but 15 minutes into my ride I couldn't help it. WFO throttle. Damn bike.