| Author | Message | ||
     Ndbuell1125r |
Hey all! I have a 2008 1125R and I have noticed oil pooling and then some drips on the ground after a ride. It does not continuously drip, but it is enough to warrant concern. Also, my oil level is not dropping ect. I have posted some pictures to possibly find a solution? The pictures are from the ground UP perspective, so UNDER the engine and by the weep. There is also a picture of the left side area, where oil seems to go to. https://imgur.com/a/2NpTF1W Thank you! Chad | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Possibly cam cover. My recommendation would be to degrease and clean it really well. Then go for a short ride to see where is wet. It's going to be quite hard to really pinpoint with all the residue in place. | ||
| Pwillikers |
You may have overfilled it and it is leaking by the stator cover grommet where the stator wires come out. | ||
| Torquehd |
degrease and clean it really well. It's hard to tell when gritty oil is all over the place. Sometimes after a good cleaning (brake parts cleaner works great), you can fire the bike (or truck) up and just let it sit and idle and identify the source of the leak. Seems like going for a testdrive usually blows oil all over the place. Unfortunately, sometimes you CAN'T replicate the problem at idle. | ||
| Willmrx |
It looks to me, you need at least, the seal for the mainshaft part# X0070.1AMA | ||
| Ndbuell1125r |
Is this is difficult fix? Do I need to pull the engine? | ||
| Pwillikers |
I'd suggest not jumping conclusions. Do a proper diagnosis as Torquehd recommends. | ||
| Shoggin |
You should pull the engine and replace that one seal, then put it together and see if that was it. | ||
| Willmrx |
There is no need to pull the motor to replace the main shaft seal. You have to remove the front sprocket/pulley, and then you can remove and reinstall the seal. | ||
| Ndbuell1125r |
Thank you all for the responses! There are ZERO shops in North Dakota that are willing to work on the 1125R (or Buell for that matter). | ||
| Mesozoic |
The 1st step in diagnosing a leak like this is, as several have already suggested, to thoroughly clean the engine and then fire it up under observation, if no leaking at that point, then a short ride is required. The Rotax engine is definitely prone to leaking, for reasons I'm totally unsure of, but I've had to deal with a couple on mine with just 18,000 miles on it. One issue was the clutch weep problem that was easily resolved by installing an Oberon slave unit. The 2nd issue was a pretty significant engine oil leak coming from the water pump/cam cover housing. A small portion of the gasket had failed there, but I was able to seal it up using Permatex Right Stuff without any disassembly. The right way to fix that is to remove the cam cover and replace the gasket, so I picked up all the parts (including an upgrade to the '10 model oil cooled water pump seal), but haven't seen a drop of oil anywhere since Permatex. | ||
| Ndbuell1125r |
So I referenced a BUNCH of posts about oil leaks and such and it seems I have the same issue as the OP in this thread; http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/728720.html?1388829488 When pulling the cover BEHIND the clutch cover/diaphram, do I just drain the engine oil, remove the bolts, replace the gasket and put it all back together and refill oil? Thanks! | ||
| Mesozoic |
No, unfortunately it's a rather lengthy process. According to the service manual: 1. Drain the engine oil. 2. Drain the engine coolant. 3. Rotate the engine. See 3.4 ENGINE ROTATION. 4. With the front cylinder at TDC, install the CRANKSHAFT LOCKING TOOL (Part No. B-48858). 5. Remove the secondary clutch actuator/cover. 6. Remove the oil pressure switch spade connector. 7. If necessary, cut the clamp and remove the vacuum assist line. 8. If necessary, remove the P-clamp and cover fastener. NOTE The water pump cover can be removed without removing the coolant hoses. 9. Remove the water pump cover. 10. Remove the 15 cover fasteners including the one securing the vent tube support and the one with a sealing ring adjacent to the water pump. 11. Remove the cover and gasket. | ||
| Ndbuell1125r |
   Is this a main shaft seal oil leak? Chad | ||
| Mesozoic |
That's a good question. Dean Adams seems to have taken apart a disproportionately large number of these engines, hopefully he will chime in. I had a very similar leak except mine was gushing from the bolt hole 2 above your topmost hole. After a thorough cleaning to pinpoint it, I purchased all the required parts (see forum post: https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?54132 -MY-2010-upgrade-oil-cooled-water-pump-seal) However, I wanted to ride the bike because it was new to me at the time, so I used some Permatex Right Stuff gasket maker and smeared it into the recess between the engine case and the clutch cover housing, directly at, 2" above, and 2" below the leaking bolt hole. I packed it in good using a gloved finger and them removed any excess visible gasket maker thoroughly to the point where the application of it is not visible. The end result is that I'm still riding the bike and it's not leaking a drop after riding it thousands of miles. I still have all the parts and just waiting for an excuse to overhaul the engine. Perhaps this method will work for you too. | ||
| Ndbuell1125r |
Mesozoic, Would you have a photo or two about what you are talking about? I think I understand, but... | ||
| Allanflstfi |
This is the main shaft seal leaking Currently working on mine oil from the same place |
