| Author | Message | ||
     Torquehd |
Second time my rear wheel bearing has gone bad. I thought, when I purchased the last one in 2012 they had already superseded to a better bearing. I used the search tool and found a few people running ceramic bearings. I'd considered this the first time but decided to stick with OEM. Wish I had the money to get a 2010 wheel. Any fresh views on the subject? | ||
| Desert_bird |
Same bearings, wheel and drive train as the XBs. Perhaps some knowledge there: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/807104.html?1495485729 As I wrote, In my experience, the least torque necessary when tightening the axles is one way to ensure these bearings don't tear themselves up. DB | ||
| Stevel |
These things are NOT plug and play. When changing out a wheel bearing make absolutely certain that the inner races load up at same time the outer races do when tightening the axle. It is possible that the inner spacer may be a little short. Axle nut torque should not load the ball race interface. This force should be absorbed by the inner race/ spacer interface. | ||
| Torquehd |
I miss tapered roller bearings. You can set the end play, you can pull them apart and clean and re-lube them and inspect the races, they have larger contact area/wear surfaces, the axle torque process is less fussy because they're designed for some sideloading, and in my experience they just last longer. I'd gladly take the extra ounce or two per bearing in exchange for all of the advantages. PLUS - tapered roller bearings on a steering stem mean you can adjust them! I'd love for my 1125 to have a tighter steering head bearing adjustment. | ||
| Torquehd |
The closest tapered roller bearing I can find is 30x55x17. That's 4mm wider than the stock. So (I assume) you'd have to turn down the shoulder on the left side of the axle shaft, the shoulder on the right side of the swingarm, and run shims to set the end play. Any machine shop could turn down the axle, but milling the swing arm down almost sounds like more trouble than it's worth. | ||
| Torquehd |
Going to call the local HD dealership tomorrow to see if they still carry them. If not, where would you get bearings from? You can buy SKF 6006-RS on Amazon but I feel like that's a crapshot way of doing it. Are they good enough to run as wheel bearings? I'd hate to find out the hard way leaned over in a corner or on the interstate. | ||
| Torquehd |
Local HD dealer said, "Nope that's a buell part. They don't make them and nobody has them. No way to get them". Called SPHD. "yep, we've got a bunch of them in stock, they can ship today!" | ||
| Blower1 |
SKF bearings are good quality and so are NSK. 6006 2RS is standard metric bearing which is easy to find from any bearing shop. Buell original bearings are not from the best possible bearing maker. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
KoYo brand...see attached scroll down to a link/discussion of different brands...most Ball bearings are now made in China...KoYo I believe is still made in Japan...and is used by Toyota. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/651540.html?1382144373 hth | ||
| Panshovevo |
I put SKF bearings from the local NAPA store in the rear wheel of my ‘08 when it needed them. I could have bought bearings with the same part number from EBay or Amazon for $3-4 dollars each, but I have much more faith in an SKF bearing made somewhere other than Asia. I paid dearly for them from NAPA though. I didn’t check the price before ordering them, and it cost me. $45 EACH! Next time, if I can’t get them for a reasonable price from Amazon, I’ll get them from a bearing store up the road 20 miles or so. (Message edited by Panshovevo on October 10, 2017) |
