Author |
Message |
Constant
| Posted on Saturday, August 19, 2017 - 12:35 am: |
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hi fellers my name is simon i from south london been looking around here for a bit i own a aprilia mille for 4 years and love iti been looking at 1125 for the past year cos they run the rotax motor but like a lot of people the stator is putting me off there is a bloke selling one that has ebr rotor and ricks stator mod are these a long term fix or dose the stator start to go again at some point the bike is an 09 thanks for any help all the best simon |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Saturday, August 19, 2017 - 12:47 am: |
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Welcome to the board. It should be a long term fix as long as the regulator holds up. |
Duanelr
| Posted on Sunday, August 20, 2017 - 01:40 pm: |
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Seconding what Terry said. It's a long term fix. Someone has already done the hard work. |
Footstuck
| Posted on Friday, September 01, 2017 - 03:32 am: |
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Hi Simon The only other part of the electrical system to sort is the reg/rectifier. It's tucked within the forward section of the tail extension. I've moved mine to a position under the number plate mount and combined the mounting screws with some spacers to allow airflow over all surfaces of the RR. My first RR went berserk with no damage to the new windings I had recently fitted (though it was a concern!) The problem of inadequate airflow will not go away with the install of a new mosfet RR in the existing position Trust me on that On a 1500 mile ride to Italy an other parts, a spent a fair time riding with my right leg at right angles to the bike to allow air flow back into the air intake cooling duct, as my leg obscures the duct sufficiently to cut down the air flow and cause RR over heat. This caused hi voltage( up to 17v). In my case, I sussed the problem and since re-siting the RR I have had no further issues except having to Chang the cooked battery. To date, I get 14.4v on start up which falls to 13.8 or above for the most part of my riding. The obvious sign of the hi overcharge was that the LCD gauge shut down until I moved my leg position I'm sure that if I had not very quickly Sussed out the air flow issue it would have Cooked the new RR as well as the battery I don't yet know if the new position will be enough to save the new RR as it suffered overheat on 4/5 times during the holiday. I tried to watch it constantly while returning to the uk, but sometimes you have to have your eye on the road I'm off into France and Germany on the 7th for a 9 days of riding, so this should see it one way or the other. West Country windings supplied the MOSFET RR at a cost of £185 I think (I can't find the receipt) I used the Honda type connection blocks as it fried the buell connection blocks |
Footstuck
| Posted on Friday, September 01, 2017 - 07:32 pm: |
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Simon you're not to far away if you want to have a look at where and how i've mounted the RR, PM me, I am registered on the site. I totally agree with the big money having already been spent, but the RR may well mess up the field coils and the connections if not given the air flow discussed. It is by far the easiest part to resolve, as its not stripping any part of the engine its just fiddly All you have to do is start the bike , let it warm up (it will say COLD on the LCD ) when the cold warning goes, press the mode toggle ONCE it will display the System voltage, and this on mine is now 14.2-14.4v after cold warm up, and 13.8 after a 15min run (or there about's). if you are not seeing these voltages post up what you see and someone will no doubt have the answer, or refer you to a previous post. I didn't see these higher voltage until moving the RR to its current(see what i did there) position. Prior to moving my RR, best seen was 14V, dropping to 13.4-13.6v on a run. The problems are all resolvable as long as you can get on with it!! you will be happy!!! I cant believe you can buy such a weapon for the money If i felt i could ride the wheels off it i'd trade up to an 1190. good luck mate |
Constant
| Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 01:47 am: |
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hi nick thanks for the reply what about parts available and servicing |
Constant
| Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 01:51 am: |
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also nick what do you use your bike for commuting long distance or both if i brought one it would be for work and local blasts |
Footstuck
| Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 03:25 am: |
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Local blasts of 100ish miles radius when family life allows, popping over to visit my old mum 50 mile round trip and annual European 8-10 dayer. That's about it. I get a bit frustrated in town traffic with the long first and second gears, so much as its a fantastic bike, my old XT500 raised up and bored out was the tool for the job for many years of London riding. I truly don't want to say anything neg about the bike because I am sure you would love trying to hold on at full bore.and grin after getting it around some fast corners, It has soo much torque you will laugh like a drain when you use it. The only BUT is how much heavy traffic you encounter daily. I would say if you are in town traffic for mote than 15min you will struggle a bit Don't know for sure though because I don't use mine like that. you may get used to it. I can't say how the CR would be, the gearing is slightly different from my R but better for street work I am sure. |
Constant
| Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 10:50 am: |
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hi nick thanks again for answering my questions all the best |
Footstuck
| Posted on Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 05:28 pm: |
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Have a look at this thread from this site It may be the answer to easier town riding There is obviously more you can do to improve the low speed rideability although I thought it not worth while for my needs Maybe I'm wrong http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/813185.html?1503770541 (Message edited by Footstuck on September 02, 2017) |
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