| Author | Message | ||
     Wesbronco |
Okay, I finally bought all my parts, and begun the process of doing the stator/rotor transplant. First I replaced the VR with a SH847 and tested it fine. After receiving parts from EBR, Twin Motorcycle, Ricks, and HD, I finally drop the exhaust, drain the oil, and pull the cover and this is what I see.  What does this mean? Because this is the upgraded rotor that EBR sent me?  The look exactly alike. Now for a bonus, is there anyway to tell if this is the stock stator?   | ||
| Froggy |
For the rotor, we can't see the entirety of the one on the bike due to the angle, but it appears to be stock, the difference is the tiny hole for the oil jet. Here is a closeup of both ends of the hole, one of which you can't see when it is installed.   Take a closer look at yours. | ||
| Froggy |
That stator looks like it is original too. If the output tested fine before removing, you could put it back on, but personally I'd save myself the aggravation and get it rewound, it doesn't look great in some areas, and if it is on its last legs then it will fail regardless what rotor you have. | ||
| Buellrobot |
I just now replaced rotor/stator on a CR I just picked up. I didn't test stator, but the bike wasn't holding a charge very well, even after I replaced the battery (only 2,400 miles on the bike total). The stator looked similarly toasty. Not horrible, but definitely discolored. Replaced it with a new one for peace of mind.I also removed the "fix" harness too, so maybe that was hampering the battery charge? Anyway, now it never seems to go below 13.8 volts at the lowest. And holy balls it's a fun bike, now that it isn't repeatedly leaving me stranded by the side of the road!!! Good luck with yours. | ||
| Wesbronco |
Okay, I got a breaker bar and took it off. All this time I was thinking those big holes in the rotor is where oil came in, but that's just for the allen bolts. Jeez. I compared the rotors, it is very different on the back, plus the original doesn't have that tiny drilled hole, which I never even thought to look for. So don't mind me. Here is where I found it on the new one.  I did't take a pic of the old one, and I just finished oranging my hands and taking a shower but I get it now. | ||
| Wesbronco |
@Froggy My stator is toast. I did the stator test for sure and was getting barely 2v at best on any phase. I'll probably clean my bolts in the coming days and finish putting it back on maybe Thur or this weekend. | ||
| Wesbronco |
So the old rotor had threads for those 6mm allen bolts, but the new rotor does not. How do the allen bolts go in? Or is this whole thing secured only by the new 32mm nut going forward and those six holes are just left open? | ||
| Wesbronco |
Those M6 bolts are sprang clutch bolts. Wtf is a sprang clutch? lol I had to read up on it, got it now. Just when I think I have it all figured out, there is something else that pops up. I'm starting to doubt the threads where people say they aren't very mechanical but had no problems. I mean, how would you even know what this stuff is if you weren't at least a little mechanically inclined? Not complaining, this is quite educational, but I think you do need at least some beard strength to do it. | ||
| Panshovevo |
A sprag clutch is a one way starter drive that will rotate freely in one direction, but lock up in the other. It is bolted to the back of the stator, if I'm not mistaken. | ||
| Wesbronco |
@Panshovevo Yea, I realize that now. I carefully disconnected the sprag clutch off the back and then attached it to the new rotor. I green threadlocked the bolts, and then had a friend come over and hold the bike. I red 272'd the main nut, and torqued it to 220 ft lbs, backed it out, torqued it to 270ft lbs, backed it out slightly (man it was on there), then finally torqued it to 300ft lb. I think it is on there tight. Well, final steps await. I will get to it tonight or tomorrow, depending on my schedule. |
