| Author | Message | ||
     Brokengq |
I really need help from someone more knowledgeable than I. I was riding last season when my water pump seal blew, and it's taken me over a year to get the funds together to fix it (it's been a rough year). I finally got it fixed and the water pump is working great. During the repair, the clutch side cover has to come off, so the clutch needed to be bled thoroughly after it was reassembled. I finally got it all back together, and was ready to ride, but now my bike won't shift into 1st or 2nd?? The clutch feels great, and I triple checked my bleeding procedure to the manual. I can pop the bike down into 1st but it immediately kicks it back into neutral. Same with 2nd. What's really scaring me is that it does it with the bike off too. Like it's just not quite fully seating into gear. Engine rotation had to be performed to pull the clutch side cover (my 4th run at a rotation), and I've tried going back over everything to make sure it's put back together right, I don't feel like I'm missing anything. Can anyone give me any kind of insight? It was running beautifully before the water pump blew. I really want to get it on the road. Things I've tried: More bleeding of the clutch. Adjusting the spherical nut on the diaphragm. Correcting clutch fluid level (read something about too much fluid can alter clutch performance) (Message edited by brokenGQ on July 25, 2017) | ||
| Scarpent1 |
Did you use the gasket for the clutch cover? I assembled without the gasket and used only sealer. The result was the shifter would not spring return so it would not go beyond second unless I manually pushed the shift lever back to the detent position. I then pulled it all apart and re-assembled with the gasket and it fixed the issue. | ||
| Brokengq |
I reassembled the large clutch side cover that includes the water pump with a new gasket, and reused the original "actuator" cover (the smaller one containing the puck) gasket. However I used a battery powered impact to zip everything back together, so torque could be an issue? Which cover are you talking about? The bigger or the smaller? Maybe I inadvertently put too much pressure on a shaft or something... (Message edited by brokenGQ on July 25, 2017) | ||
| Scarpent1 |
Sorry for not seeing this sooner. It was the larger side cover. The tolerance stack-up on the shifter shaft seems to be very sensitive and too much side load on the shaft binds the shift mechanism. Good luck finding what is wrong. | ||
| Brokengq |
Ok so I finally got to tear it back down today. Spent 9 hours on it. Found that the retainer used for the spring to return the shifter somehow bent slightly and popped the spring off. So I fixed that and it's working as designed. Now I'm facing the same issue you were. The case is binding the shaft. But what's weird is it seems that ANY pressure binds the jaw up. I can put enough pressure on it to bind it with my finger. Is this what you were running into? Did you just following the torque spec in the manual fix it? Gonna pick up a 1/4" in-lb wrench tomorrow. (Message edited by brokenGQ on August 12, 2017) | ||
| Brokengq |
Spent a lot more time on it over the past couple days. I went ahead and decided to reassemble using the proper torques and constantly check whether or not the jaw on the shift shaft would release the pawls. I could consistently get it to shift into first, but due to the engine being rotated I couldn't get it to go into second. I continued to reassemble and once the engine was in the bike I checked for first and second gear engagement. Both would engage beautifully, but the shifter wouldn't drop back down after shifting to second. I triple checked my torque and hoped that it was just because the shift shaft was dry, and after it was filled with oil it would work properly. Wrong. Fired it up and took it around the parking lot. First works perfect, drops down, engages, and the shifter comes back up. Shift to second and the shifter gets stuck in the up position. I tried tapping it down like mentioned above to see if I could get third, but it just pops it back into neutral meaning the jaw isn't pushing downward like it's supposed to after a shift. Feck. I think I'm going to attempt to source a new shaft and just replace the assembly. I've attempted torquing and retorquing so many times now I just don't think it's going to make a difference in the least. I think when the retainer bent it somehow screwed the jaw up too. With the engine off if I shift to second and rock the bike back to put pressure on the trans I can get the shifter back into the neutral position, but it feels like it grinding against something on its way down, not a smooth movement at all. If I can find a shaft I'll replace it soon. I'm a little too fed up with the bike to tear it back down right now. | ||
| Ace117 |
Brokengq i believe the shift shaft is the same on the 1190. I recently inherited a bin full of shit shat assemblies among many other thing from the EBR liquidation. Shoot me a pm if you are interested in a new assembly. | ||
| Scarpent1 |
In my case I was able to push down to the return position and then shift to higher gears. If you are using the oem gasket and torques then it must be something else. I don't know if there is any way to test it when you have the cover off. I hope you find the problem soon. |
