Author |
Message |
Buellbud
| Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2017 - 09:58 am: |
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Hello there wise Buell masters. My name is Tim and I'm relatively new to Buells and bike maintenance in general. I bought my current bike (2009 1125cr) knowing that it was mixing oil and coolant and that it was likely they water pump rotary/oil seal. Yesterday I removed the header, clutch actuator and side crankcase cover to replace said seals. The seals were indeed gunked up and in bad condition, and whoever own this bike before had jb-welded the weep hole for the coolant shut. After replacing the oil seal and the water pump seal and opening up the weephole carefully, I proceeded to re-assemble. With everything re-assembled I went to move the bike, however the shifter no longer returned to it's middle position and the clutch lever was very sponge like. I bled the clutch to no avail and now the clutch will not disengage. Is there anything I could have accidentally messed up while simply removing that crank case cover? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I plan on taking the bike apart again tonight but I would love to go at it with a plan. Let me know if I can provide anymore information. Thanks in advance!!! (Message edited by Buellbud on July 19, 2017) |
Willmrx
| Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2017 - 12:21 pm: |
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There is a white plastic spacer that goes on the end of the shift shaft,( just to the right of the #5 line) it maybe missing or is misaligned, or the shift shaft spring may have been moved out of position. For the clutch, my guess is you need to keep bleeding it. |
Buellbud
| Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2017 - 01:00 pm: |
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Thanks, I'll make sure to check that tonight. I think its worth noting that the clutch and the shifter worked fine before fixing the seal, etc. Hence my confusion as to why it had changed. |
Bubba_
| Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2017 - 11:36 pm: |
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if the clutch sleeve isn't seated properly with the notch lined up.. you'll get a boggy clutch action/ wont bleed well (ask me how i know ) |
Buellbud
| Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 11:59 am: |
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Ha, I could guess! Good news! I found the issue. I am a big fan of using gasket maker which turns out to be a big no-no in these engines. Used a gasket instead of gasket maker and that added thickness freed up the shift shaft and allowed the clutch to work after a bleed. Dumb mistake but nothing got damaged and I learned my lesson. First bike over a liter and I cant believe how quick this thing is, super fun to ride. Thanks you guys for your input! |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 05:45 pm: |
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If you've never spent any time on anything with the power to weight ratio, and the torque band of these bikes, don't get cocky too soon. They can surprise you, even when you think you know them...don't ask how I know this... Of course, I don't know what all the original owner might have done to the bike in question. I can see the Power Commander V w/auto tune and dual O2 sensors, and the modified D&D 2 into 1 exhaust, and the CRC fairings and belly pan, and there's a pretty good chance he was racing it. I know that EBR Tech doesn't support a bike with a Power Commander installed, but this one seems to work pretty well on an 1125R. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Wednesday, July 26, 2017 - 11:14 am: |
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Question for those involved, could the bushing shown above ever get into a situation that would prevent shifting altogether? I just did this same repair, but instead of binding the shifter, my bike isn't fully engaging the gears. |
Willmrx
| Posted on Wednesday, July 26, 2017 - 11:21 am: |
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Very possible. The spring could have moved out of place as well. |
Brokengq
| Posted on Wednesday, July 26, 2017 - 11:35 am: |
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Awesome. Glad I finally have a starting point for this issue. I'll tear the motor back out Saturday and see what's up. |
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