| Author | Message | ||
     Socoken |
Hey everyone, I did my first track day today, and I might be hooked. I was wondering if anyone had experience with converting their 1125r to track use and could recommend some parts sources, specifically race fairings and spools on a budget. Im sure there used to be a ton of sources, but Im not finding much. Any and all input appreciated. Thanks, Ken | ||
| Nuts4mc |
google at the top of this page is a good place to start your search...but be smart about your new passion...you will crash...repair/spare parts will be costly or non-existent...might want to buy a dedicated (GSXR/636/CBR-RR/R6)track day bike due to the spare/aftermarket parts availability and used parts on ebay....save the 1125 for those special rides on the road. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I got bodywork from Catalyst Composites, been very happy with them. www.catalystracingcomposites.com With that said, not an important piece to start with, they do have just headlight inserts you can get if you want to pull those to get going. Just take the conversion process slow. There are tons of farkles out there, not all will be that worthwhile, the more time you spend you will find what is really needed. My recommendations (sort of in order of importance): Engine Protector Covers - These were CF and made by Taylor Made products, i think there is a version by GB Racing also, worth their weight in gold by keeping the tender bits off the ground in an incident. Good brake fluid - I run the Amsoil brake fluid with great result. Suspension - Do a race shock and fork internals. Opinions on brand choices will be all over the place, my recommendation is to find out what suspension vendor will be at the track that can give you day to day support and work with them. That is one of the best track relationships you can have. Steering Damper - I ran without one for years, had some close calls and would find myself knowing which corners were going to cause headshake and ride around the issue which i'm sure was costing me some time each lap. After adding the damper, it's solid as a rock. Do it. I use the GPR, installation is quick. GP Shift - I started with a kit from Precision Engineering, not sure who still makes them, but it does help. (I never upgraded to a quickshifter, and for just trackday duty, I don't think it's really needed) And then, just ride it. Don't go crazy thinking you need a fully kitted bike for track use. It's plenty capable, put that saved money into you, training and time will make you faster than a piece of billet or CF. | ||
| Skntpig |
+1 what 99 said. Just have fun. Brakes and Suspension are the most important. Catalyst required almost no prep before I rattle canned mine. | ||
| Nobuell |
From a performance and safety aspect, I believe that the steering damper is a must have for track use. After that, definitely upgrade the suspension. Getting with the track suspension guy is a good start. Good suspension can make a huge difference when you learn to push hard on the track. A simple but very effective change will be to install the SBS DS front brake pads. They are the best stopping and longest lasting pads that I have tried. They are only good for track usage. Once you get the SBS pads, getting good brake fluid is required. You will generate a lot of heat so the need for high temperature fluid is required. I run Motul RBF 600 as it has the highest boiling point for a reasonable price point. Get lots of track time. That is the best way to get fast. Let me know if you have any questions. | ||
| Nm5150 |
I have done about a dozen track days on Peggy Red.My first suggestion is to pull everything off the bike you possibly can and buy a used fairing and put inserts in the headlights or buy a race fairing.If you crash you can't tear up things that are not on the bike.Good brake pads and fluid.I use Castrol and it is about $100.00 a quart but it will last all day.Auto Zone brake fluid will not.Good tires.Depending on the track if I don't have good tires they will not last all day.I bought spare rims and put DOT race tires on.Case guards are a good idea and a steering damper is a must IMHO.Water wetter is pretty easy to put in.Just loosen the water pump screw and pour water wetter in until it comes out with the motor running.As you get faster a race ECM and exhaust and GP shift and suspension upgrade will be enjoyed.I have Traxion Dynamics gas charged forks and an Ohlins shock but you can make do with the stock suspension until you get faster and it is expensive.I would also suggest a Knox vest with chest protection and boots that don't let your ankle flex side ways much and has plenty of plastic so if you fall the boot won't dig into the pavement.That hurts.It is also good to have a spare shifter,brake clutch lever and bar end sliders.Don't ask me how I know this.Also if you put after market stuff on your bike take tools and all of the stock stuff with you.It might get you through the day if things don't go your way.I love track days and I hope this helps. | ||
| Panshovevo |
I see a lot of good advice above. I haven't made it to my first track day yet, as I suddenly had a flashback while riding the R model I was planning to turn in to a track bike, and tried to do a loop like I used to do in my Pitts S1-S. (Just kidding...I honestly don't know why it happened...I thought I knew the bike, but it pulled a surprise move on me) Both of us suffered considerably for it. Of course I never tried it at ground level in the little aerobatic biplane. Good thing too...it didn't go well on the bike. I got knocked off by the windshield hitting me in the face (shield open, it was brutally hot) tumbled, rolled, and skidded on my butt and forearms for what seemed like forever. No leathers, but as rough as the old asphalt was, I don't know how much difference they would have made unless they had Kevlar in the critical areas. My CRC fiberglass fairings took a beating...repairable, but I have to decide if it's worth it. The left side radiator is leaking. The tube at the top is crushed partway. I might have a spare somewhere...I know I have one for the right side, can't remember if I have one for the left or not. The swingarm and the point of the frame/fuel tank are scratched/gouged. I don't know for sure if the tank is leaking or not. The rear wheel was binding. I was wondering if the swingarm was bent, as the belt was running off the pulley when turned in a forward direction. Jim Dugger suggested loosening everything and re-torquing. He was right on the mark...as soon as I loosened the pinch bolt and axle, the wheel started turning freely, and it continued to do so after retorquing everything. I just passed my 60th birthday...my birthday present was going to be a track day, but neither I nor the bike was ready. Soon...even if I have to buy another, less powerful bike to start out on... | ||
| Nm5150 |
I would like to add I can get my bike ready for the track in about three ours.My oil filler plug and all critical bolts are wired.I do not count the time to do that in track preparation because I just leave them wired all the time.If you don't want to wire them at least put marks on bolts like pinch bolt on the axels and brake calipers and oil drain plugs with a paint pen so you can visually tell if they have moved after every session.It will come off with nail polish remover. | ||
| Socoken |
Wow, I truly appreciate all of the responses. Tons of great advice and knowledge/experience. At this point, Im leaning more toward buying a cheap track bike thats already mostly setup. I was thinking, why not the 1125? its not worth a ton of money, so no real risk, but I think I like the bike too much. Its fun, it still looks new, and its cheap to insure. I think I want to find a generic/replaceable bike to thrash, even if it is less fun to ride. Thanks a ton for taking the time to post and share experiences and info. This community is the best. |
