| Author | Message | ||
     Panshovevo |
Talking about the '09 CR... I replaced the fuel pump with a new one from St Paul HD a little over a year ago, because of repeated trouble codes for low fuel pressure, and "Live Data" showing 40 KPA (the lowest it will display, far as I know). When running, the pressure fluctuated, but I never noticed a performance issue. I also replaced the IC (with 6.1) with a new takeoff from one of the Ronin bikes. The replacement came with 6.2 installed. The bike has been troublefree for several thousand miles, but recently, I've noticed the display going dark, speedo quitting, and the IC displaying " system voltage ". The bike continues to run, and the lights continue to work. When the IC 'recovers', the check engine light comes on briefly, and the battery symbol lights up, and everything returns to normal. I checked the cables and their attachment to the Shorai lithium iron (I think) battery. All is good there. I usually keep a Shorai charger/maintainer on it when not in use. I pulled the windshield (I put R front and side fairings on the CR) and checked the connection on the back (front) of the IC, it seems to be tightly engaged. I checked the harness leading to it, and the front frame ground, all seems okay. Then, I checked the Diagnostic codes, and live data... Comm Data, not surprisingly, but also PO 0087 (Low fuel pressure) and PO 193 (I think) also a fuel pressure thing. Live data...40KPA. Hit the starter button without turning the kill switch on, and the pressure jumps up to 5xx KPA, and drifts back down. Turn the kill switch on and start it in Diagnostic Mode, it jumps to 5xx, then settles to around 420-440 KPA. Incidentally, after installing a new takeoff rear shock absorber on my other Buell, an '08 R model, the fuel pump quit working. It seems the wiring inside the potting material, where it passes from outside to inside, had gotten stressed and failed. I used the housing from the old CR pump, and the pump from one of the two...(I forgot to mark them and got them mixed up) and a new thermistor, as I knew one was bad, and built a functional pump out of used parts. At any rate, I am thoroughly confused...I'm going to dive into the electrical diagnostic manual and see if I can make any sense of it, but if anyone has had either of these issues before, and can shed some light, it would be greatly appreciated. Subject to edit... (Message edited by Panshovevo on April 06, 2017) | ||
| Coastrambler |
Regarding the IC going dark and getting "System Voltage" indication. My '09 R used to do that. The IC is shutting down in self defense. System voltage is TOO High. I ran with High Beam lites on at all times and did not get this condition when doing so. Final, and real solution was to install a series Rectifier/Regulator. Have had no recurrences since. No more High Beams always on either. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Coastrambler, when your IC shut down, did it power back up after a short time? If it did, did you ever see the battery (low voltage) warning light come on for a few seconds? Thanks for your response. | ||
| Onetuford |
FWIW I was just having the same sort of issue with my R. but this also corresponded with an IC indicated overvoltage, upwards of (IIrc 15.5 volts). Information display read "system voltage" or something like that and then shut off, and would intermittently power back up. In my situation I suspect bad VR...Not that helpful but I'm watching this thread! | ||
| Panshovevo |
I just ran through the Diagnostic process for IC Inop in the electrical diagnostic manual. It leads to replace the IC, but I think I'll wire in a voltage monitor, ride it some more, and see what that shows. FWIW, this only happens in the first mile or two of a ride thus far...this might fit with a voltage level issue. | ||
| Panshovevo |
On the other hand, considering it's intermittent, it COULD be the ignition switch, but I doubt it, because of the timing of the occurrences thus far. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Fortunately, before I got too involved with installing a voltage monitor, I remembered there is one in the IC...Duh! You guys are right...voltage hit 15 volts, IC turned off except for a brief flash of the battery symbol and the displayed message "System Voltage". Oddly, it came back on, showing 15.5 volts before I turned the high beams on, and brought it down to 13.9. Guess it's time for a regulator. Thanks. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Shindengen SH847 series voltage regulator | ||
| Panshovevo |
Thanks Joe. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Got mine from Jack at Roadstercycle.com, ordered the Shindengen SH847 Super kit with STATOR WIRING EXTENSION and a connector and pins from wirecare.com; made for a factory-look install. Connector part # is DTP04-4P, pins are 0460-2-4-12141, and the wedge is WP-4P. You can't crimp the pins without a special, expensive, tool. I soldered mine, no problem so far. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Thanks again, Joe. FWIW, I removed the Shorai Lithium Iron battery from the CR, pulled the AGM battery out of the '08 R and installed it in the '09 CR just to see what would happen. I had a hip flexor cramping as soon as I put my feet on the pegs, and wasn't sure I was going to be able to complete the ride, but fortunately, things happened even more quickly than with the Shorai battery installed. I barely got out of the driveway before the voltage reached the point where the IC shut down. I was still able to control it with the high beams, but I didn't take it up to any speed, just rode a few hundred yards down the road, and turned around at a convenient place and came home. Edited to add I've been busting my butt exercising recently, both to try to get past remaining pain post lumbar fusion (three level) and trying to work off some of the weight I put on shortly before and since the surgery... (Message edited by Panshovevo on April 08, 2017) | ||
| Panshovevo |
Well, I thought I was going to put the Shorai battery back in the '09, close it back up, and ride it today, running the high beams to keep the voltage down. Got the battery in, and fired it up to test it. Ran it at a fast idle to warm it, then ran it up to around 3500-4000 and held it for a bit. I was watching the voltmeter. Never saw over 14.2 or 14.3, but the display blacked out like before. I shut it down and checked the temp of the regulator. Ambient temp. I pulled the three wire connector that connects the regulator to the stator from where it was tucked down under other wiring, and found it was hot, and the insulation on the wires on the regulator is browned. Got the connector separated with some difficulty, and found some burning has happened inside...both sides of the connector are damaged. Going to check the stator next. Guess I'm riding a shovelhead today... | ||
| Nuts4mc |
connector P/N...scroll down http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/724751.html?1388956856 | ||
| Vagelis46 |
I have the same problem...SYSTEM VOLTAGE when I get over 15 volts I keep the high beam always on..... no problem | ||
| Panshovevo |
The stator checks out okay, but both sides of the connector are damaged. I'm going to replace the regulator/rectifier, but I might solder the wires together with something like a Western Union splice instead of the Deutch connector. | ||
| Araignee |
Although the tools for the Deutch connectors are stupidly expensive, an unwanted HD bandaid harness from the classifieds is not (I gave mine away), and you can simply cut the wires at about 2-3 inches from the plugs and solder the SH847 leads to it. Personal experience has taught me that being able to disconnect components can be very helpful. Plus the Deutch connectors are good quality. Jack at roadstercycles can probably help you regardless of what route you take. Be advised that you need a pretty high-wattage soldering iron to work with 12 gauge wire. I originally planned to install the SH847 under the tail near the taillight, but some mock-up work once I'd removed the OEM led me to believe the factory location could work. You basically mount the V/R with the fins horizontal using the original forward bolt hole and heatsink. The rear bolt for the V/R roughly lines up with one of the vertical braces on the rear subframe, so you drill a hole once you like the position you've got. You need to finesse things a bit, but you end up with the new V/R aligned for good airflow, and with adequate space for the plugs and wires on the top of the V/R. You also need to trim the undertail to allow clearance and airflow, but I just kept working at it until everything was clear, using the opening on the other side of the undertail as a guide so I didn't overdo it. If you don't have enough clearance, the undertail will try to pivot on the center mounting bolt on the framerail near the battery, your taillight will be off-center, and things won't line up well. This is something that cost me many hours to learn. A bit of heatsink paste, and you have a solid V/R that barely gets warm, from my experience thus far. You'd never know it was there, and it doesn't get attacked with road grit and rocks as the front mount and to a lesser extent the rear mounts do. If its worth doing, its worth trying to do well. Araignee |
