Author |
Message |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2016 - 09:06 am: |
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Bike sat for a few months and now idles high, around 2,200-2,500 rpm. It will eventually settle down but after 30 seconds or so. Runs fine otherwise. Has the EBR race ecm but was modified with the lower more street friendly idle. It normally idles around 1,100-1,200. I don't think it's bad gas, I've put a fresh tank through it. Also performed TPS reset. |
Tbowdre
| Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2016 - 11:44 am: |
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Check the electrical attachment at the clutch lever... happened to me. If its connected then it is most likely the Idle controller at the throttle body that needs to be cleaned |
Skntpig
| Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 03:53 am: |
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The electrical connection to the clutch is not connected. I have a brembo master cylinder. This was my trackbike before. Odd thing is that it worked for a while without it. What does that switch tell the ecm and can I bypass or jump it together? |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 07:28 pm: |
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Clutch switch basically tells the ECM to bump the RPM's up a little so the bike doesn't stall when starting out from a dead stop. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Saturday, December 03, 2016 - 09:44 am: |
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I don't have the old switch. Do you think it closes the connection when the clutch is pulled in and disengaged or does it open the circuit? Thanks for your help. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Saturday, December 03, 2016 - 11:12 am: |
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When clutch switch (OEM part) is closed, it bumps RPM up via the ECM. If you have the race ECM, then the idle is normally higher than stock ECM. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2016 - 08:13 am: |
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I have the race ecm but it is the second version that does not bump the rpm. The clutch switch may not be the issue. |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Sunday, December 04, 2016 - 07:06 pm: |
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I would get the bike up to operating temp, then do another TPS reset. |
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