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Tommymac92
Posted on Friday, August 19, 2016 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A little preface first, my 09 1125r has had the rotor mod done a few years ago and all seemed to be well. This season I did about 4 track days with the bike and today converted back to street use and was taking it to the shop for an inspection ( shop is about 20 miles away)

Bike started up and seemed to be running well but when I got on the hwy she stalled on me as I was slowing down in traffic, I had the clutch in and that's when she shut off, it started right back up and still ran fine.

I got off the hwy and it started doing it at each traffic light, with the fear of it not starting it back up I limped home. Again it ran well on the highway but it happened a few more times on the side roads, always on deceleration with the clutch pulled.

I think one or two of the times the engine light briefly went on but couldn't see what it said with the glare and my sunglasses.

My questions are, any idea why this is happening, and can I do I diagnostic check to see what the code may be as the bike restarted and ran well and no lights were on.

I will be going out in a little bit to check the battery, figure start with the simple stuff first.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Friday, August 19, 2016 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I went itno diagnostic mode I didn't get actual codes but these were the first 4 error codes I got.

Comm error

tps sys error

FP sys error

IAC sys error

there were a few others including sys voltage, something with the coolant fans and I think one for the side stand switch.

Not sure what to make of all of it but for now I threw the bike on the charger and will see how it is in a day or 2.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2016 - 02:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First things first, check for tight battery connections.

then...fully charge and load test the battery.

All those sensors are finicky about voltage.
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Tommymac92
Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2016 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am hoping thats all it is, I threw it on the tender last night and it was full chaged this morning, I will try it again on monday and hope for the best. Mechanical stuff I am fine with but am not good with electrical.

I found the electronic manual online as a pdf and looked at some of it last night thought I may have a stroke LOL
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Willmrx
Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2016 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the state of the clutch in the diagnostic mode, it maybe a defective clutch switch.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2016 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Take the fully charged battery to an battery shop and have it load tested. That will let you know whether you have a good/bad battery.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2016 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way, if you do need a new battery, know that a LI will require an LI tender for it.
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