| Author | Message | ||
     Jjbanks |
I'm having some issues with my voltage. I have all the stator upgrades, removed HD fix, and a modified Rick's Voltage rectifier/regulator. I usually run a Barker tuned ECM from IDSI, however after being left unable to start my motorcycle a few times, I've recently noticed that my stock ECM runs with ~1 Volt more juice and doesn't seem to drop below 12V even during prolonged idling (like the racing one does). So, my question is this... what should a typical voltage level be? Should it always stay above 14V (mine rarely does)? Or if fans are on while stuck in traffic is <12.5V acceptable? Secondly, does it sound ok that my 'racing' ECM has that much of a difference in voltage (I think it may run the fans more often), or should I contact IDSI (because I miss the performance of the racing ECM)? Any advice would be helpful (and insight on what I should expect from a voltage out perspective). Thank you | ||
| Nuts4mc |
this may help: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/738962.html?1400282130 | ||
| Jjbanks |
Thanks for the reply and the link. My voltage issues sound exactly like the original post... however, I have long ago and happily disconnected (and removed) my HD harness 'fix' (which appeared to be the final solution for the poster). Is there anything else that could be responsible for similar symptoms? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
JJ...the bikes are hard on batteries... 1) how old is the battery? 2) connection clean and tight? 3) the big grey connector under the seat with yellow wires ...how does it look ( melted?, brown/melted insulation on the wires?) 4) connection(s) to your VR...soldered or just crimped? 5) air flow to the VR...sufficient to keep it operating in a "safe" temp ( they do get warm) 6) the ignition switch has been known to self destruct. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/717369.html?1374898861 7) the grounds in the harness are "weak" here's my fix from a few years ago...(scroll down for pix) http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/674577.html?1336678989 HTH (Message edited by nuts4mc on July 24, 2016) (Message edited by nuts4mc on July 24, 2016) | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
The stock ECM is a lot more conservative about when it turns on the fans. I forget what the on and off temps are, but the race ECM by default turns the fans on at 170F and off at 160F (which basically means never, since the coolant temp will never get below 160F once it gets above it). The perpetually running fans are probably responsible for the difference in voltage. However, just to be sure, pay attention to the voltage when the coolant is below 160F (IE for the first couple minutes after cold startup) and see if there is a voltage discrepancy. | ||
| Jjbanks |
First off, thank you to both of you. I am all set with points 1-7. I put in a new battery, checked the starter cable (it was fine, to me it appears like more of a problem for an 'R' than a 'CR', I have a 'CR'), and added the ground wire (thanks for the link & pictures). I think the ground and battery made subtle improvements (and the ground may have helped with a Comm Error), but the bike is still not reliable with a racing/Barker ECM. It runs fine, but the voltage can dip below 12 after a quick start/stop in hot weather and make it unstartable (if stopped). The stock ECM seems to perform a much better and keep things above 12 (but, it just not nearly as fun to drive!). So, it is probably the fans being turned on too much, but don't the majority of 1125 riders have a race ECM? And if so, how can their voltage be reliable? I am under the impression that on a properly running 1125, with any ECM that the voltage should stay above/around 13 even idling in hot traffic. Am I wrong? What else should I try (am thinking of contacting Rick's or IDSI)? | ||
| Jjbanks |
Well, I 'fixed' it... It was my fault. I had 1 of the 3 wires coming from stator going to an empty spot to the VR! It is the result of my retiring things last summer due to a burnt stator wire (which was due to a loose connection). Not my finest moment, but what can one do? I am now getting maybe too high of a voltage (at times going as high as 15.8V)! But maybe that is ok? When cruising, the voltage is like 14.7. Thank you for your responses, sorry for potentially wasting your time. | ||
| Dannybuell |
sounds like vr time | ||
| Ebmachine |
I recommend the SH847 series voltage regulator. I installed mine easily behind the license plate for cooling. It runs at 14.4 volts most of the time and dips to 13.8 in hot weather at slow speeds. The stator runs cooler with a high capacity series regulator vs the stock shunt regulator. It is my understanding that the Rick's Voltage rectifier/regulator is an improved system, but is based on Mosfet technology, which is still a shunt system. From what I read and have experienced, a good series regulator is a solution to the 1125 charging system weakness. Unfortunately, it is not cheap, but around $200. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Eb, just bought an SH847 from Roadstercycles; Jack was very helpful; $216 with the 3 foot add-on and shipping. How did you mount yours - to the license plate holder, did you use the existing slots for the plate bolts? | ||
| Ebmachine |
Joe, I used the existing license plate slots and flipped the cooling fins around toward the rear tire. It runs cool back there and is hard to notice if you are not looking for it. I noticed the coolant temp runs a little lower now. If the stator is running cooler with the new VR, it makes sense that there is a little less strain on the cooling system. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Eb, thanks for the info. That's pretty much my plan for a location. | ||
| Jjbanks |
Sounds like I should e-mail Rick's about my high voltage (as a I stated above, it can reach 15.8V when taking an on ramp). Or have others seen this too (with Rick's or another VR)? | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
15s is where I would start getting nervous. You probably won't risk frying anything until you get to around 17v, but normal is in the mid/low 14s. My '08 peaks at 14-14.1v, but I think that's largely because of the weaker (400w instead of 500w) charging system in the '08s. Unless, that is, I misunderstand how stators and VRs work, and I, too, should be seeing mid 14s regularly. I recently put an SH775 on my '05 Speed Triple--it went from peaking in the mid/low 13s (with voltage dropping into the 12s as the RPMs climbed) to peaking in the mid/low 14s and not dipping into the 13s until the fan comes on at idle. The main benefit of the SH847 over the SH775 is that it's got approximately double the capacity (50amp vs 25amp) and, from what I've read on triumphrat.net, the SH775 supposedly has voltage regulation issues above 10K RPM in some applications, which do not affect the SH847. My Triple's stock redline is 9500rpm and I've bumped it as high as the tune will let me, which is 9900rpm, so no risk of voltage regulation issues over 10K. The 1125R only redlines at 10.5K, so I wonder how likely it would be to have an issue with the SH775. I'd honestly probably give the SH775 a shot on the 1125 if I were to change it, as the 25amp capacity is more than enough, and the $50 price savings is attractive, too. Oh, and the SH775 is very close to the stock sized VR on the Speedy so I was able to mount it in the same location--the 847 is noticeably larger. BTW, Roadstercycle says about its voltage indicator LED gauge thingy: "It has the over voltage warning now at 15 volts to warn guard against killing a Shorai battery or boiling a stock battery, best of both worlds in one unit." The clear implication being that anything over 15v can be detrimental to the battery. I'd get your VR addressed promptly. | ||
| Joe7bros |
So I finally updated my VR to the 847, bought it from Roadstercycle. Took it out for about an hour, temp was mid to upper 80s, voltage never dropped below 13.5, coolant temp never went over 200 degrees, and that was in stop and go in a construction area. The VR is mounted to an aluminum plate fender eliminator; at the end of my ride, the VR was warm, not hot, to the touch. Seems to be a successful upgrade. FYI: I used a Deutsch connector on the stator wires and plugged the new VR into the existing stator harness. The Harley fix harness has been removed, I will be removing the OEM VR next week. I appreciate all the help from the posters on this forum; thank you everyone. | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
18+ blows your headlights out whilst going him at night and its difficult riding in the dark with nothing but that little safety light....lol. Especially when you live out in the country, as I do. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Never went over 14.8, so I should be good. | ||
| Squish |
Joe, Good to hear you obtained a series-VR, installed it, and the bike is working great. John (Message edited by Squish on August 28, 2016) | ||
| Jjbanks |
Just a quick follow-up on my Voltage issue. It appears it was all my fault (as usual). Didn't tighten the battery screws down hard enough. I heard it all about 'make sure it is tightened', and I thought I did, but finally I got out a ratchet and really made for sure. My stupidity aside, I can't say enough good things about Rick's, they helped me through the process and even tested my VR for me. They were really responsive to e-mails to. Thanks you all for you input as well. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good reminder, thanks for sharing the resolution to the issue. |
