| Author | Message | ||
     Frontline |
I have had my Buell 1125CR since new and have been an avid supporter of Buell since I started at Harley in 08. We supported them fully and still do. I love my bike and i dont want to part but I am going on a big trip. I'm Prepping the bike for a sturgis trip and I want to make it back with the bike. I had questions about the voltage regulator options. Ricks voltage regulator: it doesnt say it is any different than a stock one. just that it runs cooler. The website says MOSFET an electrical term. The shunt style is what we have now charging at full capacity all the time heating it up. Is ricks a different type? I like the idea of ricks if it is better because it can go in the stock location. I dont think I can get the modified rotor in time for my trip so I am planning on trying this voltage regulator. From reading posts it seems the VR is mostly the culprit anyway. If i cant get this sorted out soon I suppose I just chance it and hope it works there and back. | ||
| Shawns |
Shunt..puts excess voltage to ground and runs hotter as you are basically sending 12volts to ground. The mosfet uses the external casing to cool itself. If your not grounding out your stator it should in theory run cooler. The mosfet needs to be in the airflow. Don't know if I have helped you or not. Here is a pic of mine  | ||
| Frontline |
So does the Ricks stator not mount in the stock location? | ||
| Shawns |
I purchased mine from roadstercycle.com. I believe they have one that mounts in the same location as well. I am not sure if it is a shunt style or mosfet? | ||
| Frontline |
SO i did a little more research. I guess the right term is Shunt or series. What you have posted is a series style. I called Ricks and left a message. no answer yet on what type it is. Im not a huge electronics person do they only use MOSFET technology on the series style regulators? Im just looking for the simplest solution in a short amount of time. | ||
| Shawns |
If you are referring to this one http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/part/10-017H/M DlCdWUxMTI1Q1I= I would go with a shunt style. The series style has cooling fins and a the cast is a heat sink. I don;t see these features on this model. | ||
| Frontline |
I am referring to the Ricks 10-017H. I thought I read that this is an improvement to stock and goes in the stock location. I dont really know thats why I am asking here and what peoples results have been. | ||
| Shawns |
That's going to be a shunt style. I would gather the electronics are better and the regulator itself will run cooler. I could have sworn there posts on people using them. Being that it's the same style as the factory, I do not believe it will help your stator run cooler. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Frontline, that is the right question, we are misusing terms here. I posted some details previously, but the clarifications never stuck, and I don't want to sound like "that guy" always correcting everyone when everyone involved knows what they mean. I can build a shunt or a series or a switching regulator out of a MOSFET. So describing it as a MOSFET regulator isn't saying much. A series regulator is like inserting a resistor inline between the source and the destination. Upside is that it is less load on the generator (stator), downside is that it dumps massive power out the regulator. A shunt regulator takes "extra" power from the source and just shorts it out to ground instead of delivering it to its destination. Upside is less power out the regulator (it is throwing it elsewhere, not eating it). Downside is more abuse on the generator (one of the things that has to eat the power being thrown away). A switching regulator is like a transformer. The source power is converted to AC, manipulated with a series of coils and capacitors, and set to another voltage level without any power being eaten or thrown away. Best of both worlds, easy on stator, easy on regulator, but big and more complicated and more parts to fail. | ||
| Panshovevo |
The output of any alternator (or generator) is AC until it is rectified to DC. All types of regulators convert AC to DC. Why does the switching regulator convert to AC? What does a switching regulator do with the excess current? There are a certain number of electrons put into motion by movement of the rotor magnets around the stator that have to go somewhere, then return through a ground path. They can't be dissipated into thin air. The heat they produce can be, but not the electrons. Edited to say I'm new to the discussion, but don't understand how any regulator can make a permanent magnet alternator run cooler. They put out the same amount of current per rotation regardless. (Message edited by Panshovevo on August 26, 2015) | ||
| Dannybuell |
Can someone make me a forward bracket or template. I do not have the tools, to fab metal. Thank You in Advance. | ||
| Jolly |
I just bought an 1125R, so have joined the dark side from the Tuber world... the bike had an issue with the dash shutting off that I figured was related to the regulator over charging....well, with the help of an expert here...so I guess technically "I" didn't figure it out... anyway... The bike already had the EBR rotor fix and supposedly a new stator... I bought the Ricks Stator and it is a newer version that is mosfet technology but it does not have the cooling fins and bolts right into the stock location. according to "Rick's" the stock shunt style run hotter because they allow the stator to run at full output demand and then shunt the excess to ground, so, the stator runs hotter and the regulator runs hotter as well as it processes the extra voltage. the mosfet is more of an "as demanded"(?) style regulator and there both the stator and regulator run cooler...not an electrical engineer but I do have some electrical experience way way way back in my background, enough to basically say, yeah ok that makes sense.. however now I am confused as well as I think more about it, the rotor spins around the stator and produces an x value of electricity by the simple design of it...its not something turned off right? anyway, my new Ricks stator does not look anything like the heavy models in the pictures above....and does bolt into the stock location and supposedly runs cooler with the mosfet technology.....I spoke to Rick's at length once I learned there was a different version of their regulator as I wanted to ensure I had bought the correct model and I apparently bought an updated version? as I have only owned an 1125R for about two weeks, I may be the newest person here!.... Plugged it in and everything seems to be working......without intermittent shut down of electrical components.. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
I am new to my 09 CR as well, and when I got the bike the stator was shot, which I believe was the second on. I replaced the stator and regulator with Ricks Hot Shot units, the regulator is a MOSFET. All worked well for about 500 miles, the last time I had the bike out the voltage was sloooowly dropping, and right before I shut the bike off was at 12.5 volts. Went to start it today, dead...have a brand new Shorai battery that is now on the charger, but I wonder what could have went out. Is it normal for a just over month old stator or regulator to go out? Used to get 13.6-14.4 volts when they were new. Am I correct in thinking that I can test the stator for Ohms resistance to see if it is still good? Less I digress, I didn't see any cooling fins on the stator or regulator when I got my new ones, looked just like the old units...I wan and say they are made in Taiwan too...  | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
Oh and Jolly, if you are referring to the fins on the above photo I believe that is a CE 605 (if memory serves correct) that's what I'm gonna upgrade my bike to this reg over the winter,hopefully won't have to do another stator with it | ||
| Shawns |
Battery shouldn't go dead sitting overnight. I would check for a draw. If your stator meters fine, you should be good (in theory at least). Rick's regulators look like stock, the difference is in the components inside. | ||
| Panshovevo |
12.5 volts is dead for a Shorai Li-Fe battery. Anything below 12.88( < 20% charge) resting state voltage requires their special cell balancing charger to recover, according to their web site. (Message edited by Panshovevo on October 21, 2015) | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
Yes, when I put the battery on the charger both lights were alternating back and forth indicating it was below 25% discharged....gonna pull the stator plug and see what it says. Anybody know the Ohm specs that the stator should read off hand? | ||
| Shawns |
0.1-0-.3 ohms. Is factory specs. I believe the ricks stator is a little higher | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
Tested my stator and it was .4 ohms on all phases, while idling it was 20 volts, and 56 volts at 5k rpm. As soon as the bike warms up the voltage at the battery drops like a rock. Talked to Ricks and they said the stator was in spec, gonna send my reg/rec to them to test. It's either that or a fan draw when it kicks on at temp.....my money is on the reg | ||
| Panshovevo |
Did you check the AC leg to leg voltage at 3000 rpm? That's where the manual says you should have 45-55 volts. Doesn't say anything about voltage at higher or lower rpm. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
I checked all 3 phases at idle and 5 k, that's where Ricks says it should be tested. The stator is putting out plenty of volts per the technician at Ricks, their staters are supposed to put out more volts than stock | ||
| Panshovevo |
Hmmm, it would be interesting to see what it does at 3000, where the factory test is supposed to be done. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
39-40 volts at 3k, which is hard to do with the race ECM, e revs want to shoot to at least 4k | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
Does seem odd that the manual would have you check at 3k, at no point during riding is the bike ever at 3k unless accelerating. But I went with the mfg of the staters advice on how to test the stator.....actually paused the game to go out and test it by the way! haha | ||
| Panshovevo |
That's interesting. Thanks for doing it, I appreciate it. Edited to add that I got some info on regulators and permanent magnet alternators from the former owner of Spyke and Compu-Fire today, but haven't had a chance to read it all yet. If I learn anything helpful from it, I'll post it here. (Message edited by Panshovevo on November 01, 2015) | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
So I got a call from Ricks today stating that they had my reg/rec hooked up for about 6 hrs on their test bench and it never dropped below 14v. When I talked to the guy the first time he mentioned maybe the fan had a short and was pulling too many volts, makes sense I guess since the volts at the battery don't start to drop until the fan kicks on. Has anybody had this happen before? | ||
| Shawns |
With mine the breaker went bad. Replaced it and it seems ok. | ||
| Oldog |
For your reference >> The metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor (MOSFET, MOS-FET, or MOS FET) is a type of transistor used for amplifying or switching electronic signals. << The roadster and compufire units turn off the alternator for part of a cycle of the ac wave. I hope that this helps too. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
The breaker? Is this different than the fuses? | ||
| Shawns |
The installation kit for the CE605SB comes with a 30amp auto resetting breaker |
