| Author | Message | ||
     Zhen13 |
Does anyone know the part number for the drilled rotor for a 09 1125s? I found a charging system rotor listed on LAP's parts list. But not sure it is the correct one. Does the rotor in the 09 direct swap for the one in the 1190? Any info would be helpful, thanks in advance . | ||
| Terrys1980 |
EBR 1125 rotor number Y0533.1B6. I'll do some digging to see if it can be swapped. Found this too if you want a rotor to get drilled without taking the bike out of service. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Buell-1125R-Flywheel-Rotor-/272105251441?hash=item3f5abca271:g:~EcAAOSwYIhWmA~U&vxp=mtr (Message edited by terrys1980 on January 30, 2016) | ||
| Terrys1980 |
OK so the 1190RS shared the 1B6 rotor with the 1125 so I'm sure the 13AZ will work on the 1125. | ||
| Zhen13 |
Thanks Terry, you the man. | ||
| Jc1125r |
Are the 2008 and the 2009 rotors the same part number? | ||
| Mhpalin |
No | ||
| Terrys1980 |
No. If you use a '08 rotor you need a 08 stator and vice-versa. However you can use the '08 rotor/stator in a '09 but can not put a '09 rotor/stator in a 08 without changing the stator cover as well. | ||
| Zhen13 |
What was the difference between the 08 (that did not have heat problems) And the 09?(that did have heat issues) | ||
| Terrys1980 |
In 09 Buell increased the stator size and output amperage. | ||
| Cbi |
So just to confirm, the Y0533.13AZ part number is a newer/later version of the Y0533.1B6 drilled rotor? Getting ready to order some parts, just want to confirm I'm getting the right stuff! | ||
| Terrys1980 |
They will likely get you the same part if you order from AF1 but from what I can tell the 1B6 was the 1190RS part number and 13AZ is 1190RX part number. LAP lists the Y0533.13AZ for $340 | ||
| Cbi |
Thanks Terry. The reason I am unsure is there is also a Y0533.1B7 rotor listed as a "flywheel assy" under 1190 powertrain parts in the LAP file. The Y0533.13AZ is listed under the EBR Direct Web Store, so I would assume this it is the drilled rotor upgrade for 1125 models, which I need. | ||
| Zhen13 |
I just got an email from LAP confirming my rotor order and shipping info. Total with shipping to Illinois was $356.59. I will take some pics when I get it. | ||
| Mrred7 |
So, will the Y0533.13AZ work on my 2009 1125CR and is it the modified oil jet version? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Yes it works. | ||
| Mrred7 |
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Terrys1980!!! | ||
| Zhen13 |
I received my EBR drilled rotor today. It does not appear to be a brand new rotor but likely one of the core exchange rotors. It actually came with a core exchange form. I assume it was included paperwork when originally sold thru EBR. I certainly hope they don't expect a core. I kinda doubt it would have to mentioned at time of sale. Regardless here some pics of YO533.13AZ Rev a     | ||
| Zhen13 |
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| Mustang0 |
Just received my drilled EBR rotor yesterday took less than a day to get it. Just wish paper work part was easier. Like just calling to order parts instead of PDF file. Great service otherwise. Thanks for the right part number guys. | ||
| Mrred7 |
Just received my modified Y0533.13AZ oil jet rotor from EBR for my 2009 1125CR. Looks pretty good. I need to remove the sprag bearing off the old rotor and attach it to the new modified rotor. Do I need any other specialty tool(s) besides the crank locking tool, Loctite 272 and the 32MM deep socket? Any other advice from some of you that have done this would be appreciated! | ||
| Mhpalin |
You will need a torque wrench that goes to 300ft lbs and if you don't have the rotor off the bike yet loosen the sprag bearing first  | ||
| Mrred7 |
Loosening the sprag bearing requires me to remove the 6 allen screws, correct? | ||
| Jc1125r |
You are correct about the 6 screws holding the sprag clutch, and as already stated, loosen those before you remove the rotor. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Mrred...you'll need more than just a torque wrench..see this thread ( scroll down)...make sure you use the correct loctite when re-assembling the beast http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/694256.html and see this one about alignment dowels...the magnets on the rotor are strong...installing the cover can be a challenge...be very careful of the thrust washer on the balance gear shaft.. gravity never stops working...the washer has an ability to come off and fall into the timing chain/sprockets/starter gears...take pictures if you can before you start.... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/664864.html?1340856808 (Message edited by nuts4mc on February 25, 2016) | ||
| Mrred7 |
Ok. Thanks for the advice guys. I have one issue right now. How do I take off the deutsch connector off the stator to get it through the engine wiring harness? I checked the service manual and it seems rather ambiguous. Also, what Loctite did y'all use for the 6 sprag clutch bolts? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
The connector can be taken apart. Just be sure to pull a string through to fish the new one through. Could possibly use a metal clothes hanger or some bailing wire. Loctite 272 will work on all the bolts and rotor nut. (Message edited by terrys1980 on February 25, 2016) | ||
| Mrred7 |
Terrys1980, I just PM'd you. Anyone else have a solution to the problem of pulling the deutsch connector through the wiring harness? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
If you pull the orange center piece out, the wires clip in and can be released with a small screwdrive. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/592310.html?1283454984 | ||
| Mrred7 |
Thanks Terry! |
