| Author | Message | ||
     Stimbrell |
I have the low voltage at idle issue, charges at 14+ from cold but when the bike is warming up, even before fans kick in, volts drop when stopped at lights until charging light on dash comes on, However I have the modified rotor; the stator and regulator checked as good. I have so far fitted a new stator from Twin Motorcycles, fitted a spare regulator, swapped the battery with my other bike, ran an extra ground to the regulator, ran the regulator DC out direct to the battery and nothing makes any difference. Milliamp draw test is fine at 1.5 so, what have I missed? Any thoughts welcome, I am at a loss. | ||
| Shawns |
Gremlins? A poor ground will cause the same type of issues. Are you using the stock regulator? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
1) Accessories...non stock lights/heated gear? 2) run an additional ground to the engine block (large gauge wire) 3) old batteries? 4) corrosion in the fuse block/relay bank 4) try an non stock VR ..remember resistance goes up as temperature goes up...I would look for corrosion in a "connection" some where in the power circuit...you may need to add a ground to the ECM circuit or you have fuel pump connection issue...see here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/705083.html?1380506536 hope this helps | ||
| Stimbrell |
Thanks for the replies, I am using the stock regulator but only because I have two available, I have no non stock electrics other than an EBR ECM. Today I have checked the main ground to the frame next to the fuel pump, the front ground and the fuses and relays, no issues other than when I removed the main ground to the frame both rear turn signals came on and stayed on, not flashing, looked at the wiring diagram and have no idea how that happened. I realize I have missed one important piece of information from my first post, The voltage drop only occurs during the first warm up from cold, once the bike is fully warmed up I can sit at idle, with the fans running and the volts will be 13.8 or better. I will move on to adding an extra ground to the engine and checking the ECM grounds next weekend. Thanks for the help, appreciate it. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
...the big gray connector with the yellow stator wires coming into it and going to the VR is also a source of problems...check the condition of the wires and disconnect (take apart the two halves of the connector) and inspect the contacts inside... | ||
| Stimbrell |
Just to update, I have tried running extra grounds to the engine, frame and sub frame, non made any difference. I checked the grey connector for the stator to regulator wires and they are good and finally I fitted a new battery which seems to make it worse if anything. I am really at a loss at what I can look at next. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
So did you check stator voltage during this issue? Have you completed the full stator checks reading a/c voltage at idle, 3k, 4.5k rpms? Did you remove the HD relay fix after stator fix/mod? I don't want to  but two things are usually the culprit in the particular situation and it's weak battery or failing insulation on the stator winding or wiring. My CR did this and a new battery from HD solved the problem. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Yes, both the old and new stators are putting out 18vac at idle, 40vac at 3K and 50 vac at 4k, the so called fix was removed when I had the rotor mod completed and tonight I have fitted a 16AH, 240CCA battery but the batteries I have used were absolutely fine, never failed to start the bike even when the battery warning light had been on. It is something else and it is getting worse so hopefully I will track it down soon. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Just a thought but has someone with a bike without any charging problems checked the VAC output at idle? I would like to know what they see. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
WASG...see this link: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/745758.html?1412213667 | ||
| Stimbrell |
Well I think I have found the problem, decided the only thing left to check was the rotor and found this, the magnets have become detached and have been slipping inside the rotor  I am using JB High heat epoxy putty to attempt a repair but if anyone has a suggestion for something better please say, I cleaned every thing with carb cleaner followed by meths and used sandpaper before putting it back together, here it is as it is being fitted.  | ||
| Stimbrell |
And here it is finished  I will leave it overnight to set and see how it is tomorrow and post the result. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Good find! Hope it works out. Doesn't look like you put any RTV on the stator wire grommet?? | ||
| Sparky |
Just wondering as a data point, was an impact wrench used on the rotor nut? | ||
| Stimbrell |
Not put anything on the stator wire grommet so far but will look in to it and consider it going forward. This rotor was fitted under warranty by HD when the first stator and rotor failed and was later removed and re-fitted by me when it was modified, I did not use an impact wrench on it but cannot say for sure what was done by the dealer. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Well the day didn't start well, the voltage dropped quicker than ever, checked the output and it was down to 8 vac on all three legs, pulled it all apart, easier said than done with the putty fully hardened, to see what was wrong and realised what I had done, I gave no thought to the polarity of the magnets when I installed them. This time I laid them out on the bench next to each other to make sure they were N-S-N-S... and have put it back together, will see if it is fixed tomorrow. FYI starting the bike with the oil line to the cooler disconnected makes one hell of a mess  Not a good day. | ||
| Reepicheep |
How on earth did you get JB weld epoxied magnets back apart! Wow. I was playing with hall effect sensors recently, and did the same thing several times. | ||
| Stimbrell |
Well success at last, today I was able to sit at the traffic lights with the fans running and the voltage never dropped below 14.1. Taking apart the epoxied rotor took hours using small screwdrivers and picks, I think I was lucky as it is only just above freezing here at the moment so I think it delayed the curing process, I am sure it could have been worse. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Nice work man!  | ||
| Bubba_ |
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| Sparky |
Awesome! | ||
| Jjbanks |
Stimbell’s original problem looks eerily similar to what I have been experiencing (I have all very similar upgrades). Bike starts off charging to +14volts, but then drops down while riding (especially when stopped). Also, I often get a ‘Comm Error’ and the lights on my dash sometimes dim when I start the bike. I don’t know if I have the time/energy to get to the stator to see ‘if’ this truly the problem. Has anyone ever seen this before/again? Could it be anything else (battery? faulty ECM?)? Also, maybe I don’t fully understand how a stator works, if things came unglued, how would it work at all? Thanks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
A stator is as simple as it gets. Coils of wire are arranged around plates of ferrous steel, and as a permanent magnet are rotated around them, a mechanical force is induced on the crank and an electrical current is induced in the coils. If one magnet came unglued, and somehow didn't destroy everything, the other magnets would continue to function. Given the design of the stator bell, they might creep and rub on the case or stator, but I don't know if they would just come out. | ||
| Stimbrell |
The magnets are held in place relative to each other by a plastic frame as shown in this picture http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/778950.jpg When the adhesive fails all the magnets will spin inside the rotor which is being lubricated with an oil spray with the modified rotor, the magnets are not spinning as fast as the rotor and that is the cause of the low voltage. I have had no issues or charging light since the above repair but how common this fault will be I really have no idea. |
