| Author | Message | ||
     Cocheeze15 |
The last time I took my CR out I noticed the volts running really low, and then steadily drop off, next time I went to ride it was dead. I talked to Ricks and had them yes my reg, and all is good, but I noticed that as soon as the fan kicks on, the volts start to drop. Has anyone had this problem? I'm assuming there is a short or falls ground on one of the fans? Also when reading the manual it states that the fans (2) should kick on at 170F and back off at 159F, I have never seen this bike run below 174F once it's up to temp, is this normal? I have the EBR race ECM, and thought I read somewhere that one fan kicks on and stays on regardless until the bike is shut off, if so, why is it running so hot? Also went to check my coolant strength since it's about that time in NE Ohio, and it's only good to 0F, I'm assuming it's been replaced with something, since it looks like urine, never seen it look like that. Any ideas are always appreciated | ||
| Rocketjump |
Sounds completely normal to me. You have a lot more draw on the battery and that's why your voltage drops. The EBR ECM treats the fans different, I believe they both kick on at a certain temperature (174?). The fans just help the bike cool down and do not stay on for the duration of your ride. If you're coolant looks like piss, do a flush and change it out. My personal preference was the HD kind. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Fans do go bad, I just changed one on the '08 recently. It was locked up when I got the bike, so I don't know what was happening as it was failing, but I would guess that it drew progressively more amperage until it seized completely. Pull your battery fuse, and reach inside the fan housings to see if the fans turn freely, or are dragging with roughness in the bearing(s). | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
The fans spin freely even with the fuse in, doesn't seem like a motor issue. But they should not be pulling more volts than the rec lets through, they run the bike dead. Guess it's time to pull it apart and check all the wiring...I did notice the last time that the left front turn signal wasn't working either | ||
| Nuts4mc |
how old is the battery? (it's getting kinda cold up there) are the connection at the battery clean and tight? check your grounds... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/713720.html?1370269317 have the buzzards left for the winter? ( a NE O H ten tradition) | ||
| Panshovevo |
Plus one. ^^^ The reason for pulling the battery fuse before sticking your fingers in the fan was to avoid the possibility of the fans kicking on unexpectedly. While major injury is unlikely, it could be painful. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
The battery is brand new Shorai, and I checked the fans with the bike off....buzzards left a while ago too....just crappy weather now. I was gonna work my way back through the wiring this coming week to see what I can fin | ||
| Panshovevo |
You know that the fans can run with the bike off, right? It's unlikely that they would kick on with the bike cold and the switch off, but something killed your battery, right? Better safe than sorry? Do you have a Shorai charger, or other cell balancing charger intended for LI-Po-Fe (or whatever they call the lithium-iron batteries)? | ||
| Two_seasons |
"The battery is brand new Shorai,..." Did you also buy the Shorai battery tender? Makes a diff from what I've read. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
It comes with the charger/tender. Everything is fine until the fans kick on, then instantly the volts at the battery go down, even though the stator and rec check out good... | ||
| Dannybuell |
that is the way mine has always been... it won't charge at idle and discharges more with the fans on.. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
With the EBR ECM, the fans come on at a ridiculously low temperature (170F, if memory serves), and are set to turn off at a temperature that the bike will never ever hit unless it is turned off (160F, I think). I reset mine to come on at 185F and turn off at 175F, and on highway rides, the bike does occasionally cool off enough that the fans shut off. During the winter, I think I am going to reprogram the fans to come on at 195F and turn off at 185-190F--reason being that when it's so cold outside, the oil isn't going to get hot enough to burn off contaminants. I'm also going to block off the oil cooler to help on my morning commute. When it's 40F, my bike runs at 165-170F and it doesn't even get up to fan temp (185F) by the time I get to work. Also, I turned off the fans running after the bike is shut off. The last thing a bike with a weak charging system needs is to have the fans run for 30-60 seconds after the bike is shut off, further drawing down a barely-charged battery. I've previously posted threads with links to the (free) software you'll need in order to make this happen. Google the forum and if you can't find it, let me know and I'll hunt around for you. | ||
| Panshovevo |
I have an '09 CR with a Race Use Only ECM and a Shorai 270 (equivalent) CCA battery. I've never seen any less than 13.6 volts with the engine running, even when idling in heavy traffic. The battery has never gone dead while sitting, even during the months before I bought a Shorai charger and started using it between rides. It has a stock regulator, but I don't know what has been done with the rotor or stator. The Harley 'fix' has been removed. Those who are saying the OP's bike is performing normally: is your bike an '08 or a later model? If '09 or later, does it have the 'fix' relay harness installed? Fan settings can be done with a Buelltooth device ( available from member UpAero), an Android device (phone, or $50 tablet) and a free program called ECMDroid, downloadable from Google Play. Lots of other things can be done with this setup as well. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
Mine is an 09 CR with the Buell Race ECM, and I did the rotor upgrade and new stator this fall. I was thinking of running it with one of the fans unplugged to see if I can at least maybe narrow down which fan could be causing the issue.. Other than fallowing the wiring all the way back I'm not sure what else to do. It does have the Harley Fix wiring, but I'm not using it as I have replaced/upgraded the charging system | ||
| Panshovevo |
That sounds like a reasonable plan. I rode my '09 CR yesterday for the first time since I installed the R front and side fairings (more about that later) and hit some rain on my way home last night. When I shut it off in the shop and was getting out of my gear, I heard what sounded like the fuel pump cycling on and off every few minutes. The kill switch and the key switch were both off. It was late and I was tired and hurting, so I just pulled the battery fuse and left it. Put the fuse back in today, and nothing unusual was happening... I'm guessing the rain water is getting in somewhere it shouldn't. | ||
| Oldog |
The pump may cycle to maintain rail pressure for a few minutes after shut down, this is normal ... | ||
| Terrys1980 |
I haven't really followed this thread but have you checked the resistance on the fans and the wiring going from the fan to the relays? If the fan itself was drawing that much amps to bring the voltage down it would likely blow a fuse. Sounds like a weak battery or bad connection... | ||
| Panshovevo |
First time I've heard it... | ||
| Terrys1980 |
The 1190 will do it for a half hour after if it's hot enough and more now that I have a newer IDS ECM. | ||
| Dannybuell |
my 09cr has the HD stator from 2,000 miles 22,000 miles now. the fix is unplugged. always on a battery tender. 3 quarts with new filter every 2,000 miles. 'The pump may cycle to maintain rail pressure for a few minutes after shut down, this is normal .' yes I have read this many times when they are hot they have a tendency to vapor lock. Keeping the fuel pressure up supposedly reduces the chances of a vapor lock. | ||
| Panshovevo |
I'm going to make a guess that I've never heard it before because the motor was previously more exposed. Now that I have the side fairings on, it retains more heat after shutdown. True vapor lock only happens with a suction type fuel system, typically where an engine driven pump is pulling fuel from a tank located below the engine, and the fuel line between the tank and pump is exposed to heat. Fuel can vaporize in other types of systems, but can be cleared out easily by a pusher type pump. It may not start right away, but it will clear the vapor out. | ||
| Zac4mac |
When the 1125 debuted, the ECM kept rail pressure up for 30 minutes. The charging system was marginal and lots of dead batteries ensued. The interval was dropped to ten minutes IIRC in one of the first ECM "recall" remaps and has been there ever since. I believe you can use this to evaluate your pump/rail health. A well sealed system, including the injectors will have a longer interval between pump cycles than one with leaks... Z | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
Sorry for the delay...the holidays got in the way. After doing some light checking of the fans and wiring around them, I could not find anything immediate. The fans both turn freely, and didn't see any wiring damage. I sent my battery back to Shorai and the did a load test as well as a leakage test( for losing standing voltage) and advised me that the battery is fine. When I talked to the tech again about the issue he advised that the battery is strong enough that it should be able to run the bike for 45 minutes or so if the charging system was compromised. Does this sound right? When I test and the fans kick on it literally takes less than 5 minutes to kill the battery? So I'm thinking either loose ground, or maybe the reg really is bad? | ||
| Panshovevo |
I'd venture a guess that the Shorai tech isn't all that familiar with an 1125...the fans do draw a significant amount of current. I'm going to read back over the thread, see what I might have missed. | ||
| Dennis_c |
I have the Buell race ECM and Shorai the next size larger battery its 315 CCA it had the #21 in the size. My fans kick on from 166 to 170 F. Have a CE605 VR charges at 14.4 at idle and 14.4 to 14.6 2000 RPM with Ricks stator. | ||
| Cocheeze15 |
I'll have to check and see what size the battery is when I get it back...but it just seems to me that the reg may be bad since the stator is putting out all kinds of volts, and the battery charges, until the fans kick on. I've been thinking of doing the CE 605 swap anyway just to help with the stator cooling after the fun job of removing and replacing that rotor. | ||
| Dennis_c |
The battery Shorai called for has 18 in the # and has less CCA I got the larger one it still fits easer than the stock battery. You still have to warm it a little in the 20s F. outside it fast though just a few seconds.  Heres my CE605 | ||
| Dennis_c |
The battery Shorai called for has 18 in the # and has less CCA I got the larger one it still fits easer than the stock battery. You still have to warm it a little in the 20s F. outside it fast though just a few seconds.Heres my CE605 | ||
| Aussie_bueller |
Hi Guys Mr Cocheeze 15 Did you find out what was causing your voltage drop when the fans start.I have the same problem. I have the modified stator/rotor with a Mostef 847 voltage reg. i also have the Buell race ECU and my bike is a 2010 model. I soldered the grey plug onto the end of my stator wires. Does anyone have any idea what mite be the problem . I have not had a good ride now for about 6 weeks and summer is close and I really want to enjoy some rides. PLEASE HELP  | ||
| Aussie_bueller |
Hi Guys Does anyone have a Electrical Troubleshooting and Diagnostics manual ? If so please have a look and c if it says anything about Fans draw current ? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Voltage drops from battery discharging faster than it is being charged or excessive current draw. Also battery could be getting weak. What is the resting voltage of the battery after it has sat overnight? Check fan motor current draw for each and compare to see if one has higher current. You can also check the fan motor and wiring resistance. | ||
| Reepicheep |
2007 XB12X fan, used pull in good shape with about 10k miles on it. Startup: Over 10 amp draw Steady State: 3.8 amps DC current (full fan speed) (Measured with a Fluke 77, connected to a battery booster, which was probably at close to 14 volts, so a good approximation of a running motor. A non running motor, off battery, would likely be about 10% lower current). (Message edited by reepicheep on October 21, 2016) |
