| Author | Message | ||
     Shawns |
My bike bogs down for lack of a better term. When I try to open her up it bogs down like a clogged converter on a car. it doesn't stall out it doesn't have the pickup. Tried a tps reset through ecm spy and couldn't get it to work. Did a manual tps reset per the manual, still is the same. Tried a spare throttle body and it has the same result. Idles fine, starts fine, just no power. Trying not to take it into the shop, but I am at a loss. | ||
| Steveford |
Exactly what happened right before your bike started doing this? | ||
| Sprintst |
Could be a bad coil. Have you checked those? | ||
| Shawns |
Haven't tried a coil yet. I would figure it wouldn't idle or start if it was a coil. I believe I have a set of coils I can try, have to see if I can find them. I did make sure that they were plugged in properly. As fas as what happened before it started doing this, I have no clue. Left work one day, opened it up and it just bogged down. Last year I replaced the injectors, after I got some bad fuel. Ran fine after I replaced those. | ||
| Zac4mac |
major brain fart... Check fuel pressure, could be a bad pump. No plug wires, coil-over-plug, so make sure coil is clean and tightened down well. If plugs are over 12k miles, replace. Z | ||
| Sprintst |
My bike was starting and running okay at first, then had no power, hard to even get it moving. Exhaust was also running way hot, since it was dumping fuel into the muffler (Message edited by sprintst on August 04, 2015) | ||
| Shawns |
Anyone know an alternative to the stock coils? $134 a pop seems a bit pricey. I can pick up an used set, but I won't know what i'm getting. What PSI is the pump supposed to be at? (Message edited by Shawns on August 04, 2015) | ||
| Sprintst |
Ebay, buy used ones Have you tested the stock ones? I ended up doing an old fashioned test, put a sparkplug in, ground the body of the plug and crank it over, look for spark (Message edited by sprintst on August 05, 2015) | ||
| Shawns |
I don't think that test would work well as it idles fine. When I give it gas then I have the issue. I ordered a set off of E-bay. I really hope that this is the issue. Cause at this point I'm stumped. | ||
| Ciemny02 |
Dear Shawns, I had exactly the same issues 3 months back. I have been diagnosed with the pump failure. I could regenerate it or buy a new one - I bought a new one and keep the old one for the regeneration for the future just in case. It cost me around 900$ (job at HD + pump). But i live in Poland  sincerely bart | ||
| Ciemny02 |
@up as an addition: my bike wasn't running completely smooth on neutral (even long after startup). There were some pauses in the engine work, like: brum brum brum bru...brum brum brum brum bru....mbrum brum brum. Please forgive me my "brum" explanation I am a total inexperienced layman regarding the mechanics. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sounds like fuel issue, have you looked a diagnostic mode and checked AFV and fuel pressure | ||
| Shawns |
Here are my readings Tps 2.0 goes to 100 with throttle wide open Tps voltage 0.4 goes to 4.1 with throttle wide open Map Kpa 97.0 Map voltage 3.9 Iac 15.6 Fuel Kpa 4.0 Fuel voltage 0.4 Frt o2 0.4 Rear o2 0.4 F adapt Fuel 100.0 R adapt fuel 100.0 | ||
| Shawns |
Ok... Swapped out both coils, same symptoms. Don't think fuel is the issue. Idles fine. If I use ECMSPY what should I look for? Is it possible it's clutch issue? (Message edited by Shawns on August 07, 2015) | ||
| Nikoff90 |
You can have a fuel issue where idle and low rpm are fine. Starvation starts where pressure and flow fail to keep up. On cars this is often seen with clogged fuel filter or fuel pressure sending unit fail. Often the most expensive part is replaced first. start with testing pressure sensor.sender if that passes change any and all filter/screens or at least clean. Its also amazing what just a little water can do to some FI systems, has there been even slight flooding near where you get fuel. (Message edited by Nikoff90 on August 07, 2015) | ||
| Shawns |
How do you test the sensor? Can't find a diag on it the manual. How would the sensor cause the fuel starvation? Does the ecm control it? I just fueled up with fresh 93 octane. Not aware of any problems with the fuel. Fuel our vehicles at the same place. | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Shut pump off before correct pressure is reached or intermittently. Test fuel rail pressure with gauge. Did you listen to injectors for consistant pulses or bad noise. | ||
| Shawns |
I didn't hear any new noise. With these bikes as noisy as they are I don't know if I could hear them. When I am in neutral I can rev it without it bogging down. Or that's at least how it seems. What can i use as a data logger ? | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Stick a long screw driver onto the injector while the bike is running put your ear up to the handle and be amazed at the sounds. It works and you can hear a bad injector coil or intermittent signal. Not sure what the system does when the clutch lets out but one thing is that it picks the idle up, is that working? If not it could be an issue with that switching system. Sounds like you need to do some research and testing as you go or pay up and have someone with experience with the bikes do the work. have you read through the manual for the fuel system? Whats the symptoms when a finger follower fails? Was it jumped timing that caused this issue for a few people? | ||
| Shawns |
Unfortunately there really isn't a place that services these bikes in my area. The place I take it to has an ex race Buell mechanic, but he didn't work on the Rotax motors. I'm an electrical guy, been doing 12v work for 20+ years. I can figure out most of that. I am very mechanically inclined and don't shy away from most work. Valve service does seem a bit daunting, but I will cross that bridge when I come to it. I have a mechanics stethoscope I will put that to the injectors to see how they are working. I'm not giving up just yet. Wish I could find one of those break out box's they show in the manual. These forums are a great source of knowledge to pull from and to add to. | ||
| Theshinenz |
I just recently bought my bike back after selling it 18 months ago. When I sold it, it was running great. It has an EBR ecm in it. Just got it back a few days ago and its running like crap. It has similar issues theres hesitation on throttle a little bit but revs ok but when riding it it misses and has bugger all power. I thought maybe the previous owner had put it together wrong. So i pulled the air filter off to check, seems ok but something i noticed that i didnt when i had it previously was the air intakes were dirty with carbon buildup. I also noticed he had oiled the k&n filter and there was quite a bit of extra oil residue around the air box. I cleaned it all up and reassembled but still running like crap. He also just recently got the plugs changed as he sent me a photo of a pretty dirty plug that got pulled from the bike and said the tech that did it hoped he hadnt damaged the coil pulling out the plug without rotating the motor.... Frustrating to say the least this bike ran so well when i owned it last time. I am going to replace both coils to be safe and try to do a valve check at the same time. Is there anything else I should look at or try ? Thought maybe the injectors needed cleaning or fuel pump maybe needing replacement but its not throwing any errors than i know of. Sorry to hijack thread just thought this issue sounds similar to mine. Scott | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Are you stuck in neutral mode while in gear? Think it limits to 5000 rpm. Saves the bike from over rev on mis-shifts I guess and the occasional parking lot idiot revers. Also is your bike switching mode with the clutch pull as it should, revs should increase as clutch is released. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Had an issue with mine a couple of years ago - pulled just fine up to about 6k, then felt like someone stuffed a sock in the intake. In my case, after changing stick coils, injectors, ECU etc., and spending tons of time looking for the non-existent short in the wiring harness (per manual troubleshooting conclusion) it turned out to be mechanical. Cam sprocket slipped on the cam shaft, throwing rear cylinder out of time, breaking two cam followers. Bike was basically running on the front cyl. I'd pull valve covers and check.... | ||
| Theshinenz |
Thats something I may have to check when I do the valve check Stirz, thanks for the info good to have ideas of what else can be checked. | ||
| Shawns |
God I hope not. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Actually - once I figured it out (and it took me a while), it was a pretty easy fix. Timing jumped maybe 15 degrees - just enough that intake valves barely slapped piston, but enough to break the cam followers. I went ahead and replaced the followers and valves in that head, loosened cam gear, reset cam and tightened the crap out of the cam gear bolts - so far, so good. Broken followers can be checked without removal or rotation of engine or pulling valve covers. Just look into the throttle body and exhaust ports as you turn the engine over - if the valves don't move, may have broken followers - if they move, probably not. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/713190.html?1395715997 | ||
| Theshinenz |
thanks Stirz, i will check this on my next day off. | ||
| Shawns |
How does it jump time? Is it slack in the chain? | ||
| Firemanjim |
Manual calls for 75 psi(517 KPA) when key is turned on and 55-60(380-415 KPA) at idle and 4000 rpm. May be good at idle and fall off as rpm rises. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Nope - simplest stuff. The 3 bolts that mount the cam gear to the cam weren't tight enough I guess and the cam gear slipped along the slotted holes (slotted so you can dial in cam timing before securing cam gear). |
