| Author |
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Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2015 - 09:07 pm: | 
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I still have a MOSFET reg/rec from Ricks, so I'm under the impression that there is no breaker, but likely a short |
Ebmachine
| | Posted on Monday, May 02, 2016 - 09:05 pm: |
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I know this is an old post, but I wanted to provide some additional information. I wanted to upgrade to the CE605SB regulator. Jack from Roadstercycle.com told me they no longer carry the CE605SB because on some installations, there was a problem above 10,000 RPM. They replaced that unit with the SH847, which is a rock solid upgrade. I installed it and am happy with the results. My 2008 runs steady at 14.4v. The unit stays cool behind my license plate. |
Imblasted
| | Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 10:04 am: |
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Did you have to get any extra wiring for the SH847? Where did you install yours? I am thinking behind the license plate sounds good to me. Is the superkit worth it? I have seen the Suzuki part 32800-31J00 for ~$150. And that is the SH847AA. I emailed Jack to see if it is the same one he sells. But if I can find it locally is the wiring and connectors that come in his kit worth the extra $50? |
Figorvonbuellingham
| | Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 12:13 pm: |
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Why not use the Honda Mosfet FH008EE? Seems to work well on other bikes...
Just throwing it out there, I haven't used it but it's one i would like to try when I need one. |
Imblasted
| | Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 01:12 pm: |
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From what I have found about that one it is a 35 amp vs the 50 amps the sh847 can handle. I cannot find if it is a switching regulator or series. |
Imblasted
| | Posted on Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 08:33 pm: |
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Well purely out of laziness I ordered the kit from roadster cycle |
Sirius815
| | Posted on Monday, May 16, 2016 - 08:28 pm: |
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The SH847 is a series regulator, which doesn't short the stator. I want to say the FH008EE is a shunt regulator.
I have the SH847 just under the oil cooler - no issues at all, although I have seen 15.1V for a few (~2-3) seconds during ride. Generally around 14.6-14.7V any other time. |
Figorvonbuellingham
| | Posted on Monday, May 23, 2016 - 05:55 pm: |
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Sirious..
.
What bike do you have? |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2016 - 10:01 pm: |
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So I just got the new CE 605, besides the fact that it's almost as big as my license plate, and it weighs like 5 pounds, I'm pretty excited. I read the instructions, and they say to hard wire it right to the stator and the battery, I want to use the factory plugs for a cleaner installation that I can disconnect if needed. I wire nutted them together to try it out, and I works but I'm not sure how well. With both fans on and the headlamp its at 12.7 v at idle, and like 13.4 at 5k rpm. With only 1 fan on I can get it to 13.8v at 5 k rpm. I checked the stator again and it's putting out plenty of juice. Does any body have the new model and have an idea what kind of volts I should be seeing at the battery? Guess I'm just a little nuts about this since it stranded me once, and almost did it again with the Ricks reg/rec I'm pulling out |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2016 - 10:47 pm: |
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This is for my 09 CR |
Nuts4mc
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 25, 2016 - 10:45 am: |
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1)may want to take a trip down to the auto parts store and add an inline fuse (40amp) to the pos (+) output from the reg to the battery
2)stranded....a) as you were riding along and it just died, or...b)you stopped for gas and it wouldn't turn over?...either way the charging is only as good as the storage device...how old is the battery?
3)if you're still unsure about the fix...strap/tape the volt meter to the bike...hook the leads up to the grey connector for heated grips...go for a ride and monitor the voltage level. ( Note the kill switch connects to the heated grip circuit....so if the kill switch is "off" and you turn the Ignition KEY "on" you will see "0" volts...once the kill switch is "on"...the current will flow and you'll see a voltage reading)
4)depending on the state of charge of the battery and the battery condition (age) you may see voltage as high as 14 VDC...your 13.8 VDC @ 5K looks good...go riding! |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2016 - 09:11 pm: |
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The battery came with the bike, allegedly it is only two years old. I sent I back to Shorai and they tested it, and said it was fine. I talked to the tech about it and he basically said that it sounds like the juice wasn't getting to the battery, reg/rec issue. I am going to solder the factory plugs back into the system, i think it will make for a cleaner install, and less leads to hook to the battery. Also then I do not have to worry about a big fuse being in the way. When it dies when I was riding it basically just stopped charging the battery, and the battery ran dead. I once again tested the stator and was getting at least 18 volts on all 3 legs ar idle. I tested it again today after re doing the wire nuts, and had 13.5-13.6 with the fan and lights on at about 4K, and 12.8 at idle. I'm gonna wire it up tomorrow and take it for a spin....with the fiancée at home near the truck and trailer just in case. |
Figorvonbuellingham
| | Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2016 - 11:57 pm: |
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Sounds right to me with fans going. |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2016 - 10:05 pm: |
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So I got it all hooked up, the install turned out pretty clean, also found out it's hard to solder 10g copper to 12g non copper wire. Took it for a short ride and all seems well so far, hoping to get it out this week and do some more...testing...haha |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 07, 2016 - 09:32 pm: |
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Did some extended testing today. After start up, at idle it went up to 13.4 and then while driving up to 13.7. After about 15 minutes it started to creep down, and hovers at 13.1-13.4. I got stopped at a traffic light, and when the fan kicked on, with the HID front lamp on, it dropped to 12.5. As soon as I left the light, back up to 13.3. Stopped off for a while, and as soon as I pulled in 12.5. When I started back up and took off 13.7. When I got home I let it idle for a while, held strong at 12.3....I guess this is the reg doing its job and not working the stator full bore, but as soon as the battery runs down it charges it back up? It's the brand new CE 605 sub I think. Everything else seems to work great.... |
Dennis_c
| | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2016 - 07:11 pm: |
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What is battery volts when it when not used for 12 hr. |
Imblasted
| | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2016 - 08:15 pm: |
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should be 12.6~ |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2016 - 10:54 pm: |
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The voltage at the battery while the bike is off? |
Imblasted
| | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2016 - 11:03 pm: |
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yes. the battery, once fully charged, should stay around 12.6v unless there is something using power. |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Saturday, June 11, 2016 - 08:11 am: |
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Last time I rode it was Tuesday, had 12.87v when I checked it 5 minutes ago |
Cocheeze15
| | Posted on Sunday, June 12, 2016 - 06:00 pm: |
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So I was able to get the bike out in some nice NE OH 92 degree humidity for about an hour yesterday and all seems well! |
Believer
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 10:17 am: |
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Long time since someone was talking about VRs. So I just burned my CE605SB and I'm looking for something even better then this. I have extra 140W of LED lights installed on my CR.
So as i read the SH847 should be a little more powerfull and better then CE605SB. Is that the one VR I should go or is there anything even better?
Thank you for your help. |
Joe7bros
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 11:46 pm: |
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SH847. You want a SERIES regulator, not a shunt regulator. MOSFET has nothing to do with type of regulators, MOSFET refers to the type of transistor used, not the type of regulator. |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Thursday, January 25, 2018 - 04:00 pm: |
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I have run a Compufire 55150 regulator with great success. It's not a drop-in replacement in terms of bracketry, but it's not terribly difficult to adapt. |
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