| Author | Message | ||
     Bweiland68 |
hey everyone. I normally don't post anything on forums but this problem I can't find using the search. I have an 1125cr that I just hit 6200 miles on, so I was looking everything over and changing brake and clutch fluid. After I changed my clutch fluid and bled it, my clutch will no longer disengage. I popped the cap off the the slave cylinder to see if it was moving and it is actuating fine. The clutch lever has a good feel to it as well. When I put the bike in gear and try and spin the back tire it won't spin. I don't understand what could have changed with just changing the fluid. I have had clutches drag slightly but this feels as if the clutch is still completely engaged. Any advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Two_seasons |
You probably have too much fluid in the clutch reservoir. There is a check ball in there that doesn't like to be covered up. Stuff paper towel in the reservoir and get it down so that you are right at the edge of overflowing when the front wheel is turned to the far left position for stem lock. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Two_seasons answer sounds good to me. | ||
| Bweiland68 |
Thanks Two_seasons I'll check it after work and let you know how it goes. | ||
| Bweiland68 |
Well I checked the fluid height and it was right on so I figured I would measure the travel of the slave cylinder/actuator. I can't find anything to go off of in the book but my travel was .080" . I'm not sure if someone knows off hand or someplace to find what it's supposed to be? The book says that it could be warped clutch discs or bad springs causing it not to disengage or drag, but before I order a new clutch set up I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something hydraulic like the master cylinder or slave cylinder. Thanks in advance, Ben | ||
| Two_seasons |
OK then, put the cover back on and start pumping the lever a couple of million times for it to start working...jk...it will probably only be several hundred  | ||
| S21125r |
If it was working correctly before you changed the clutch fluid then you probably still have air in the system. Bleed it some more and make sure the res doesn't run dry while your doing it or you'll have to start from scratch again. | ||
| Bweiland68 |
So after a pump session that would make Ron Jeremy jealous my slave cylinder skipped the clutch weep stage and went straight to dripping. This is the last of the "normal" Buell shortfalls that I should encounter. After I get the new slave cylinder in it I'm hoping it will all be fixed. I'll probably just pull the clutch out while I'm in there and check the plates and springs for good measure. Thanks for the help guys. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Did you ever try the clutch with the engine running, or did you just go by what you said above, which as I understand it, was just trying to rotate the rear wheel with the tranny in gear and the engine not running? Was this with the rear wheel on the ground or in the air? I ask because although I am new to Buells, I can see this is an unconventional clutch that uses engine vacuum to assist in release. Whether this just reduces lever pull or aids in complete release is something I haven't determined yet. I don't know yet what is normal, and an attempt to jack up the rear wheel on mine while on a hydraulic lift table last night to try to find out didn't end well. (No major damage, I managed to keep it from going off the side until help arrived...definitely time for a change in safety procedures on the lift table...) The spilled oil came from the drain pan that was still under the bike. My gut feeling though, is there is still air in the system.  (Message edited by Panshovevo on May 27, 2015) | ||
| Bweiland68 |
Holy crap! I hope the bike is ok....and you too of course. This is my first Buell as well, although I fell in love with them in 2004 when I rode a lightning, they have seemed to elude my wallet through many other bikes lol. I tried it with the engine running just to see. In 1st gear with the clutch pulled in the back tire goes about 9 mph. You can stop it with the rear brake and the engine doesn't bog down. After its stopped you can hold the tire still with your hand, it is still wanting to move but it doesn't pull out of your grip. Maybe the vacuum does assist it to release as well as the slipper function? I have to swap the slave cylinder anyway for it leaking now, but it seems rideable without too much issue. | ||
| Panshovevo |
All of the bikes I have checked that way (engine running, wheel off the ground, in gear with clutch lever pulled), the rear wheel spins, but can be stopped without loading the engine. Sounds like normal to me. Especially with a wet clutch, there is going to be residual drag because of the oil between the plates. Most dry multi plate clutches will do the same thing. The bike appears to be fine...a couple of scratches on the left lower fork leg from the wheel clamp, and two very small scratches on the left outer radiator cover that can be touched up very easily. I expected much worse... I am going to check the front wheel thoroughly though. Being forced out of the wheel clamp had to have put some serious stress on it. |
