| Author | Message | ||
     Stevel |
Mrlogix, The 1190rr is a bored out 1125. Is the RS, RX and SX the same? | ||
| Mrlogix |
The part numbers for the RX cylinders are different as are the heads (obviously if they have the above mentioned swirl bypass port) Cams are different, etc., etc. That is why I asked EBR if the entire cylinder head assembly will bolt on the 1125 engine cases. | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
Don't worry guys, I don't mind going off on tangents with good information. It makes me happy to see many members getting involved in the platform and trying to improve on it. My inquiry wasn't so much as to converting the 1125r into an 1190rx, but as having more options with possible upgrades as things need replacement. And unfortunately Stevel is right, it should be the 1190 owners asking what 1125 parts will work. I did look into buying that demo SX in CA, but it looks like I'd have to sell the 1125 and I sure as hell am not doing that. So I'll wait and see how things go. (Although I find it amusing that if I had waited I could of bought the RX, but I'm beyond happy with Vicky). So far I hope things turn around for the best and EBR comes back strong. | ||
| Rick_fears |
No I meant block. The engine cases. Bottom end, call it what you will. From my own quick comparisons of the RX and 1125, they are similar enough. Although I'm sure somewhere along the lines there were changes made enough to where it won't even remotely be plug and play. That is a large generational gap. 1125r>1125rr>1190rr>1190RS>1190R/SX Yes RS and RX top end are different. I cannot say for the Bottom end though. Logix, I bet Pegram has some good info on the RX. He's local enough. | ||
| Stevel |
The part numbers for the RX cylinders are different as are the heads Of course, they have a 106mm bore! The question is "Are they the same casting?" | ||
| Stevel |
Rick, the bottom of the 1125 cylinder, the part that extends into the case, is 112mm in diameter. The cylinder wall is 4.5mm thick when the bore is 103mm. At 106mm, the wall is 3mm thick. The generation gap you mention is virtual fiction. In fact that has been the problem. This Rotax engine has suffered from the lack of development. So for the most part, it will be plug and play. This whole discussion can easily be put to bed. Somebody get a wreck and take it apart! As soon as I find one, I'll do it. | ||
| Mrlogix |
Rick-yeah, we need to see if Pegram will talk to us. Doesn't look like I will get to make the Ohio ride up north in the middle of this month. Let's see if we can hook up one weekday this month and pay Larry a visit. | ||
| Rick_fears |
http://www.mercedessalvagecars.com/mercedes-for-sa le/salvage-for-sale-2014_BUELL_1190RX_21133274/c-1 /g-21133274/ 5600. Not the cheapest thing in the world. I have a friend out west that purchased a salvage RX a while back. Might be able to get him to ship the engine out. Maaaaaaaybe. EDIT: Damn. That lot sold already. Back to looking. (Message edited by rick_fears on May 05, 2015) | ||
| Ace117 |
Part numbers for cooling system conversion. Q0023.1B7 Bracket, Radiator Mount, Right QTY:1 $39.10 Q0024.1B7 Bracket, Radiator Mount, Left QTY:1 $31.00 CA0023.1B6 Screw, M6-1.0X14, T30 Head QTY: 2 $0.78 Q0222.1B7 Thermostat Housing Assembly QTY: 1 $89.34 Q0273.1B7 Thermostat Housing Assembly QTY: 1 $89.34 Q0223.1B7 Radiator Hose, Cylinder Head To Thermostat, Right QTY: 1 $42.80 Q0224.1B7 Radiator Hose, Cylinder Head To Thermostat, Left QTY: 1 $43.00 Q0225.1B7 Radiator Hose Right Thermostat To Y-Fitting, Water Pump QTY: 1 $26.00 Q0226.1B7 Radiator Hose Left Thermostat To Y-Fitting, Water Pump QTY: 1 $34.90 Q0290.1B7 Y-Fitting,Thermostat To Water Pump QTY: 1 $18.00 Q0233.1B7 Radiator Hose, Y-Fitting To Water Pump QTY: 1 $37.40 Q0246.1B7 Radiator Hose Left Thermostat To Left Radiator QTY: 1 $43.40 Q0247.1B7 Radiator Hose Right Thermostat To Right Radiator QTY: 1 $31.10 Q0231.1B7 Radiator Hose Right Radiator To Water Pump QTY: 1 $38.90 L0059.1B7 I Bracket, Right QTY: 1 $69.84 L0060.1B7 I Bracket, Left QTY: 1 $69.84 B1020.2BL Washer, M10X20 Hardened, Black Chromate QTY: 2 $1.55 B0816.2BL Washer, M8X16 Hardened, Black Chromate QTY: 2 $0.66 A08030.2CVB Screw, M8-1.25X30 SHCS, Class 10.9, Black Olive QTY: 2 $2.48 A10045.2CCVB Screw, M10-1.5X45 SHCS, Class 8.8, Black Olive QTY: 2 $1.94 CA0023.1B6 Screw, M6-1.0x14, T30 Head QTY:1 $0.78 M0860.1B7 SHROUD, RADIATOR COOLING FAN, LEFT QTY:1 $26.90 M0861.1B7 SHROUD, RADIATOR COOLING FAN, RIGHT QTY:1 $26.90 Q0060.1B7 COOLING FAN QTY:2 $170.32 A05012.10CCVB SCREW, M5-0.8 X 12 BUTTONHEAD TORX, T25, CLASS 8.8, BLACK OLIVE QTY:8 $3.00 Q0021.1B7 RADIATOR, RIGHT QTY:1 $371.80 Q0022.1B7 RADIATOR, LEFT QTY:1 $354.92 CA0030.1B6 Screw, Shoulder, M6 QTY:10 $0.67 CP0006.1B6 GROMMET,RADIATOR & OIL COOLER QTY:4 $3.44 CH0019.10B5 Grommet Insert QTY:4 $8.90 CA0063.1B6A HEX/TORX-FLANGE SCREW M6X30-SW8/T30 CL 8.8 QTY: 4 $1.12 CP0023.1B7 GROMMET, RADIATOR ISOLATOR QTY:5 $4.40 CN0024.1AY 1-EAR CLAMP, 25.4-28.6 MM QTY:2 $3.15 CN0025.1AY 1-EAR CLAMP, 31.4-34.6 MM QTY:1 $3.33 Q0232.1B7 RADIATOR HOSE, CROSSOVER LEFT TO RIGHT RADIATOR QTY:1 $18.90 Q0242.1B7 RADIATOR HOSE, OVERFLOW LEFT TO RIGHT RADIATOR QTY:1 $13.40 CN0030.1B6 1-EAR CLAMP, 23.9-27.1MM QTY:2 $3.11 Q0071.1B7 COOLANT OVERFLOW BOTTLE QTY:1 $79.76 Q0235.1B7 DRAIN HOSE, OVERFLOW BOTTLE QTY:1 $19.40 Q0234.1B7 RADIATOR HOSE, OVERFLOW BOTTLE INLET QTY:1 $13.40 Q0072.1B7A PLUG, OVERFLOW BOTTLE QTY:1 $11.40 CD0022.1B6 NUT, SPEED CLIP, M6 QTY:1 $0.66 M0344.1B7 RADIATOR OUTLET DUCT STANDOFF QTY:2 $36.80 M0040.1B7 RADIATOR OUTLET DUCT, LEFT QTY:1 $27.40 M0041.1B7 RADIATOR OUTLET DUCT, RIGHT QTY:1 $27.40 Q0002.1B7 OIL COOLER QTY:1 $422.52 Q0030.1B7 OIL LINE ASSEMBLY, COOLER FEED QTY:1 $65.64 Q0031.1B7 OIL LINE ASSEMBLY, COOLER RETURN QTY:1 $24.81 Q0044.1B7 OIL LINE FITTING, JIFFY-TITE 1/2" X 9/16-18 UNF QTY:2 $43.70 CN0020.10AZ Travel gauge clamp, lower QTY:2 $4.30 M0039.1B7 RADIATOR INLET DUCT, RIGHT QTY:1 $26.90 M0038.1B7 RADIATOR INLET DUCT, LEFT QTY:1 $26.90 CA0030.1B6 Screw, Shoulder, M6 QTY:6 $0.67 | ||
| Ace117 |
1190RS exhaust conversion pics.    | ||
| Ace117 |
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| Ace117 |
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| Ace117 |
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| Ace117 |
These are all the pics I have for now, unfortunately I did not have time to test fit the radiators and I-brackets. I will be home this weekend to pack and will take pics of the parts before and after install. Im not quite sure if the radiator ducts will fit, they are secured by threaded standoffs that install on both sides of the frame. I don't remember if the holes to mount those are present on the 1125, if they are not Im sure an adapter bracket could be fabricated to make it work. Most of these components should drop right in with little to no modification. One thing that will be a pain in the A** is the wiring harness. The ECU and Bank Angle Sensor will need to be relocated and the wiring rerouted, this will require hacking into the harness and persuading wires to go different directions. There are some other connections that also need yo be re routed but Ill need to take a look at my bike to see which ones because I don't remember. My goal for this project is to make the 1125 better in my book, not make it look like an 1190. In my opinion this is how the bike should have rolled out of East Troy, but thanks to HD that never happened. The cooling system on the 1125 to me looks like it was a last minute add on enforced by HD. Having tinkered with this bike for a good while I came to the conclusion that the 1125 was to be built and styled a different way but, like i just said HDs doing. Im not too concerned with the cost if this project, Im more concerned about being able to obtain parts. I intend on finishing what I started, I have waited too long for the parts I needed to be available. This is extremely frustrating. | ||
| Rick_fears |
Thank you very much for posting Ace. That is a LOT of good info. Good luck with everything. | ||
| Nobuell |
The standard cooling system is lacking on the 1125R. At this week ends races I was running water temperatures in the 212 F range and the ambient temperatures were in the 75 F range. I saw a custom made front mount radiator that looked very nice. I am trying to find out the cost. For me it is a bit simpler mod since I do not need a fan for the track. Just more HX surface. | ||
| Mrlogix |
thanks for sharing Ace- looks like quite the project. I think parts will et hard to find depending on the outcome of EBR, but not impossible to find. That is the first I have heard about the grinding requirement. | ||
| Ace117 |
No problem, Ill keep posting and updating as I progress with the project. This set up would be good for racing and wont require all the parts on that list. I will be riding my 1125 on the street and possibly just tracking my 1190 so for my application I need all the parts. All that should be needed besides the straight front header are the radiators,oil cooler, thermostat,coolant hoses,hose clamps (could be generic),oil lines, radiator brackets and I-brackets. There would still be some fitting required like rounding out the old oil cooler hangars on the engine cases. The cutting and grinding only really needs to be done to the right side so the exhaust has clearance. I only did the left side to even out the look as there is plenty of room on that side for the exhaust. EBR does the same thing they just don't paint over the exposed metal, 1190 owners can take a quick glance and see what I mean. This mods still requires a lot of work, but if all works out good with EBR and parts are available again its more than doable. This could be be a good solution to the POS cooling system on the 1125 or for those racing the 1125 seeking a better cooling solution. I love my 1125 and will ride till I cant no more, its a great bike that never got the credit it deserved. By the time I finish this project I will be at my new house in Tennessee, Im moving to Cleveland TN and from what the wife tells me the Tail of the Dragon isn't too far from our new house so 1125 will be out there for sure. | ||
| Yankeerl |
Ace, welcome to TN. I live in Murfreesboro. Cleveland is about 2 hours from the Dragon and Cherohala Skyway. Great roads all around. I'm about 3.5 hours out, but do several trips that way each year. Let me know when you get settled in, i am always looking for an excuse to go play in the mountains. | ||
| Hughlysses |
A bit more semi-OT info for this thread- I found the patent application for the swirl combustion system: https://www.google.com/patents/WO2015057952A1?cl=e n&dq=inassignee:%22Erik+Buell+Racing,+Llc%22&ei=F1 dPVeeFIIHaoATGyYFw | ||
| Mrlogix |
^^ nice find | ||
| Stevel |
H-, I'm going to stick my neck out here, but this swirl stuff is BS. I think the mod may actually help, but not for the reasons stated in the patent app. Consider that when this swirl stuff is supposedly occurring, the piston is approaching TDC dwell at the end of the previous exhaust stroke and no piston caused vacuum yet exists. The fuel injector has just fired and fuel is puddled around the just now opening inlet valve(s). The exhaust valve is still closing. There is now vacuum at the exhaust port caused by the exhaust gases racing out of exhaust system leaving in their wake a vacuum. Intake opens 15 degrees before TDC and exhaust valve closes 60 degrees after TDC (Overlap period). There is 25cc of chamber space in the head at TDC and 22cc of space in the piston. There is no turbulence nor swirl. There is very little there to swirl! However, there is a vacuum and a very late closing exhaust valve, as well as puddled fuel sitting on the back of the now just opening intake valves. That fuel and some air will respond to the reflected exhaust vacuum and get sucked right out into the exhaust system unburned leaving a very lean mixture behind as the exhaust valve finally closes. At this point the rest of the intake cycle completes, but a large portion of the fuel charge has left the combustion chamber as it was puddled behind the intake valves at the beginning. The reason the mod may actually work is by allowing some pure air without fuel to flow into the exhaust port partially satisfying that reflected vacuum preserving more fuel to remain in the combustion chamber at low throttle, high vacuum conditions. | ||
| Ace117 |
I finally got a little time to test fit the 1190 radiators on my 1125. Just as I predicted all the parts fit like a glove! I still need to order the remaining parts, hopefully I can do that once my hose closes and and get paid. I have more pics but posted these for now, I will be starting a thread on this build and will upload everything at a later time. I wish I could finish this project soon but its gona have to wait until after deployment. The two to last pictures at the bottom (the one with the fan is the 1190 and the one without is the 1125) are of the mounting locations for the standoffs that secure the fan shrouds, they are identical so everything should fall into place. This cooling system conversion does not stick out like the 1125s did and will actually make the bike slimmer helping out the overall look of the bike. The picture at the end is what I plan my bike to kinda look like when I'm done.                 | ||
| Dannybuell |
looks like you are doing a great job! | ||
| Mrsuperbuckets |
I think it would look amazing to fit the race fairing for an xb and the sides for an 1125. Or maybe custom fairings. | ||
| Mrlogix |
Nice thread. Looks good. oh yeah....nice DOD sticker | ||
| Rick_fears |
What are the differences between the 1190 and 1125 side mounted radiators? Looking for numbers here. On another note, I'm really not sure how I feel about the header proximity between the radiators. Awesome, looking good. Lol now I know who to go to if I ever need some extra bubblewrap. | ||
| Sprintst |
As I recall, it was stated here that nothing was interchangeable, down to the valve caps.  | ||
| Mrlogix |
As I recall, it was stated here that nothing was interchangeable, down to the valve caps. EBR told me the same. Guess that wasn't 100% true. | ||
| Stimbrell |
FYI, If no one has mentioned it, wheel weights on the front wheel should be on the right (rotor) side. Fantastic thread by the way, thank you. |
