| Author | Message | ||
     Artz4405 |
I have been reading posts on here for about 3 years it has been extremely helpful. Currently I have an 1125r (2008 13000 miles) that has had extreme power loss. My mechanical back ground is based off of farm work and industrial machinery mechanics/electronics. When it comes to engines and everything else related, I'm learning. My machine seems to be either flooding out the front cyl or starving the rear. I got on it on my way to work and lost power dramatically, I limped it to the parking lot and came back the next day with a trailer. After a could weeks of troubleshooting and reading posts here I'm finally stumped. I started with replacing the spark plugs, no change. At that time I noticed the butterfly valves were only opening about 30% WOT. I adjusted the cable settings at the throttle and got them working smoothly again. No change in the bike running. I have a race ecm installed and thought it might be that switched it with the stock one, no change so I put the race one back on. Took out the injectors and let them sit in carb cleaner for 4 days thinking one or both might be plugged. No change. Currently I can get the bike to fire up with some coaxing and it will idle at about 1200 rpm once it's warmed up. The rear cylinder is firing normally, but the front cylinder is sucking air in the exhaust pipe. I have true straight pipes one from each cylinder. It keeps the deer away when riding. The front also seems like it "pops off" every 10 seconds or so. I did notice that the rubber boot connecting the front butterfly valve to the top of the cone was loose I put that back on and tightened it down. I can ride it around the parking lot but when I give it the juice it dogs out. Any advice would be helpful at this point. | ||
| Artz4405 |
The fuses are good and I have the latest diagnostics information from today's escapades. U0001 Comm Error P0193 Fuel pr sys error P0506 IAC Sys error P0562 Sys Voltage Batt volt 10.5 TPS 2.0/100 TPS .5V/3.9V Map kpa 88.5 (not sure what this is) Map Volt 3.7 IAC Steps 129 O2 Volt front and rear at .4 | ||
| Dannybuell |
Batt volt 10.5 Hmmm | ||
| Artz4405 |
Yeah, it was a new battery, I know I wore it out while messing around with the bike. Just to inform me, ruling out my junk battery, anything else I could check. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
You said you already did the plugs, Maybe try swapping the coils, if no change swap the injectors next.. After that your going to have to start checking for power and ground to each cylinders coil and fuel injector to see why only the rear is firing. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Max Kpa is fuel pressure (it's low), may be related to low voltage. Did this loss of power come on suddenly, or over time? | ||
| Zac4mac |
MAP kPa is manifold pressure and doesn't look that off. Fuel pressure kPa should be around 400 kPa at idle, a little higher at key-on, engine-off. Books are at work or I'd have the exact numbers. No ideas on this problem tho, other than lo-volts. Get battery charged so it reads 13 or better, these bikes need full volts or they misbehave badly. Z (Message edited by zac4mac on May 12, 2015) | ||
| Artz4405 |
Thank you all for the list. All of the diagnostic info was taken with the engine not running. I work a grave yard shift so I'm tinkering with it today. The loss of power was sudden. Today I took the throttle body off today because I noticed that it wasn't staying seated in place. If the rear was seated and the front popped off then it would explain why the power loss was sudden but I could still limp it a mile or so. The injectors are working, I'll have to find the coils and check those out. Thank you all for the great information. | ||
| Dannybuell |
the coil is at the plug boot | ||
| Nobuell |
The 1125 uses a coil stick. It has an integral boot. It is connected at the top of each head with a single screw. The rear is accessible upon removal of the air cleaner base. The front can be removed without rotating the engine. You must remove the ram air duct and then you can get in from the front to remove the screw. You can then work the coil out of the head. There is a recess that will allow it to come out. It is a bit of a pain but not to bad. | ||
| Nobuell |
I seem to remember that there was an issue with corrosion if water leaks down past the boot seal. If they look OK. Switch and see if the problem moves. | ||
| Zac4mac |
***** Anytime you remove the coil, wipe it clean and apply fresh silicone grease when you put it back in. Any water in there will make bad white and green stuff grow. Z |
