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Javaman21011
| | Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2015 - 02:23 am: | 
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oi vey... 8 hrs and I haven't even bled the lines. The dammed throttle cables! I Pull the bars to the right and the throttle acts normally, pull it straight and they're a little stiff, pull it left and the damned thing is stuck in the on position. Is a cable snagging or did I screw up the assembly? |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2015 - 09:49 am: |
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Here you go Java
http://imgur.com/PbiU5Pm
There's three cables:
-Farthest right is for the solenoid to close one throttle body (EPA thing)
-The two on the left are for the throttle return and throttle open. One with the black nuts is throttle return and goes on the bottom U of the silver cable bracket.
The silver nutted cable is the throttle open and it goes in the top U of the bracket.
Attach the throttle body side of the cable FIRST or you'll have a hell of a time having enough slack... leave the handlebar ends loose.
Black nut cable (throttle return) goes along the bottom of the throttle body barrel (black plastic thing with groove it in attached to spring) and attaches to the rear-most hole--you're going to have to open the throttle bodies to access it.
Silver nut cable (throttle open) goes along top of the throttle body barrel and attaches to the forward-most hole.
Then do the handlebar side of the cables.
Shoot me a PM if you have a problem, I'll send you my #
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on May 17, 2015) |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2015 - 11:47 am: |
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Cool that'll help, but do you have a pic of the handler bar throttle box with the cover open? I can't figure out how the 2 cables should enter the black box, also I need to know how/what orientation the throttle grip/cable wheel needs to be in |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2015 - 11:58 pm: |
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Another few hours wasted, is there some secret technique I'm missing? Can these cables not bend that much? Is there some maximum amount of slack or distance there is supposed to be between them and the handlebar housing? What is the secret >.< |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Monday, May 18, 2015 - 01:07 am: |
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I'm tempted to try this http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/670965.html?1334006011
As I've tried to route the cables inside the front head lamp area and have only been met with frustration.. apparently bending the throttle assembly towards the linkage is another idea but that seems extreme... |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Monday, May 18, 2015 - 10:37 am: |
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You shouldn't have to bend anything, but there does seem to be a magic spot where the throttle cables are free to move how they please. I was utterly frustrated for two hours working on the routing... trust me, keep working at it. Take plenty of breaks.
My cables ended up going through the top-right corner of the windscreen, behind the windscreen area where my HID headlight ballasts and ignitors are, and down to the main harness where they route just underneath. You'll see a notch molded into the plastic cover that shields the main electrical harness and allows a place for the left fork to go when fully locked to the left. The cables route just under that area and are secured with a zip tie (VERY IMPORTANT so they don't get pinched by the fork tube)!
Look how the cables were routed here--mine follow the exact same route: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/533188.html?1264622147
For the throttle tube, look here first: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/754855.html?1420131375
1. Start with the front of the throttle/switch housing. Look at these pictures: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/754859.jpg
2. Do the throttle return cable first, the one without the plastic J to guide the cable. Look at the adjustment area: there's a flat spot and the rest is round--that flat spot is locked in place when the throttle open cable is installed... the plastic block molded into it locks the throttle return cable in place via that flat spot.
3. Attach the throttle return cable to the throttle tube: the tube is going to have the cable ends pointing towards you if you were riding the motorcycle... so, 45º up and back. When the cable end is attached (the rear-most hole when the throttle tube is positioned rigth), guide the cable through the small groove in the front of teh switch housing, the push the adjuster all the way back into its hole, with the flat spot facing forward.
4. Attach the throttle open cable end, then put the throttle tube into its spot within the switch housing.
5. Guide the adjustment mechanism for the throttle open cable into its spot right next to the throttle return cable. The flat edge of the throttle return housing should be facing the block in the throttle open housing, and when the back side of the housing it on and secured, it'll clamp these two adjustment housings together so the throttle return housing doesn't just spin when you try to adjust it.
Tip for giving yourself enough cable to work with: on the throttle body side of the cables, make sure the 10mm adjusting nut is snug up against the 8mm hex portion of the cable. If you find yourself needing more cable, adjust it here.
(Message edited by jeepinbueller on May 18, 2015) |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Monday, May 18, 2015 - 01:32 pm: |
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Hmm yea I read that link you sent but there's some key photos missing between the metal bar that houses the electronic wires that go into the engine and the headlamp area. There's actually 2 photos but they are so blurry and I have no idea what I am looking at. I will try again tonight to follow the wiring harness, but I read elsewhere that the problem is something is pinching the cables. Sadly I couldn't figure out what's pinching them. If tonight's attempt fails I will probably do the route outside the headlamp... |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Monday, May 18, 2015 - 01:54 pm: |
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I'll post some pictures up tonight showing my whole route, don't fret. Make sure the cables are parallel and don't twist the whole way, especially down where the left fork bottoms out near the frame/wiring cover.
From there, I used a flashlight on the top-side shining down through the frame and where the radiator support brackets are so I could see the clearest route up for the cables, and just poked them on up through there.
Could you take some pics of what you're currently working with?
Especially on the throttle body linkage end and your cable route. |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Monday, May 18, 2015 - 07:48 pm: |
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Link to album: http://imgur.com/a/I3N8C
My adjusters are bottomed-out, cables go back in parallel
http://i.imgur.com/qyOKtoN.jpg
One zip-tie for the throttle cables and front brake switch wires, not too tight. Throttle cable enter behind the windscreen higher than with the Clubman bars
http://i.imgur.com/psiQe37.jpg
Straight around behind the windscreen, then straight down to the inside of the left fork tube. (I have the ballasts and ignitors for my HID headlights tucked back here, so it's a little busy)
http://i.imgur.com/cvXfeO3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Ajs9AKT.jpg
Exit windscreen on inside of left fork tube, outside the wiring cover, then below the wiring cover (there's a little plastic finger by the zip-tie path that the throttle cables go into)
http://i.imgur.com/za0dbYd.jpg
You can see my zip-tie slipped off--I have to redo it
http://i.imgur.com/4PtChk5.jpg
You can see the little finger for the throttle cables--they should be a little bit to the left here if the zip-tie was doing its job securing them.
http://i.imgur.com/CRpkpSy.jpg
That should get you real close. To get your routing right, try leaving the bar side of the cables loose so you can pull them by hand and manipulate the bars to see where the snag is. |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 19, 2015 - 12:47 am: |
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Well I finally got it working, I used your route and resorted to bending the bracket a smidge like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79nY4Jte2ho
The left lock sticks a tiny bit, but it's good enough for me! Thanks for your help!!! |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 20, 2015 - 10:01 am: |
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Awesome! Glad you got it. I bet you that your hang up is in that little area where the cables route by the left fork near the frame/wiring cover. Took almost four hours to get that little snag situated right, but now the throttle snaps back with forks lock-to-lock. |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 20, 2015 - 07:21 pm: |
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Yea I am thinking you are right. I still can't figure out why bending the bracket helped... Also I notice if I pull the 'on' cable uptowards the ceiling a 1/4 inch then it won't snap back. But if I pull it down towards the ground it snaps back fine. It seems REALLY finicky. |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2015 - 02:10 am: |
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Hmm, my next problem is I can't seem to get a seal on the bleeder valve with the rubber elbow attachment that the mityvac came with. Does anyone have a pic of how I should attach all the hoses to get a good seal? |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2015 - 02:24 am: |
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Mine is a little hand pump and it came with a bunch of small rubber nipples. Found the smallest one fit in the bleeder valve orifice. |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Saturday, May 23, 2015 - 11:10 pm: |
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Like the tiny conical one? How'd you get it to stay in? |
Jeepinbueller
| | Posted on Sunday, May 24, 2015 - 10:19 pm: |
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I just held it in the bleeder valve by hand while I pumped. |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Monday, May 25, 2015 - 02:12 pm: |
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Did you have someone helping you? I don't think 2 hands could do all that :P |
Javaman21011
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 26, 2015 - 01:19 pm: |
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Finally got the brakes bled, I had to use a combination of the Mityvac and the bottle method. The vac just never got a good seal and so once I felt the lines were mostly filed I resorted to the bottle method. I think I will buy this http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0143-Hydraulic -Bleeder/dp/B000MXW2EM and maybe try again later in the year. I am 90% confident I won't crash so maybe this weekend I can test ride it. |
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