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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through May 31, 2015 » Aluminum or Nylon bolts for body work? « Previous Next »

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Gofastalot99
Posted on Thursday, April 23, 2015 - 07:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In my never-ending quest to take weight off my 1125CR I'm considering some new fasteners for non-stressed or low load parts. Mainly the pods, fender, rear bodywork, airbox cover, eyebrow and maybe the hugger, guards and heal protectors. I won't be using nylon on the heat shield or the guards but for those that have replaced the original fasteners with aluminum or nylon can you provide some advice? Can I use nylon on a street bike for the body parts?
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Stevel
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 03:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am guessing of course, but you must be looking for a hobby. Your proposed effort might, if every fastener weight reduction opportunity was realized, save 100 grams. You would be better off using the toilet before riding.
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Sprintst
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RC cars are a great hobby
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Gofastalot99
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 10:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its about 7 grams per fastener, aluminum would be about 2 grams, nylon even less. I counted about 30 body fasteners, and about 10+ others like belt guards, heal protectors, L/P, heat shield, etc. So I'm guessing about 200 grams for the body work if I use nylon. I will replace any empty bolt holes like the upper belt guard and whatever else I decide to remove with nylon coated in anti-seize just to protect the threads in case I ever change my mind, then use aluminum in the heal protectors, L/P, etc, which is about 10 bolts x 5 gram savings. So, best case scenario is 9 oz. savings at a cost of about $30-40 (a dozen aluminum and 50 nylon with shoulders).

I never really got into RC cars - too boring. But I have saved about 35 pounds on my 1125CR, still basically street legal with mirrors and t-signals.
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Nobuell
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use nylon bolts to hold the body work on the track bike. They are sacrificial to minimize damage to other parts. Not a weight issue.
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Figorvonbuellingham
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You'd reduce more weight by starving yourself, or just spit more often.
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Gofastalot99
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nobuell,

Ever had any issues? Like body work rattling or coming loose? Melted nylon bolts?
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Nobuell
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I mostly have Dzus fasteners but use nylon in in threaded areas. I use nylon lock nuts where possible. They are not used in hot areas. I have not had any issues.
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Gofastalot99
Posted on Friday, April 24, 2015 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Nobuell
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