| Author | Message | ||
     The_dude |
Hey guys. I upgraded my Lightning X1 to a 2009 1125R this weekend. 1400 miles! I guess it was a dealer bike used for test rides, and I'm the second owner. It's been sitting in a garage for eight years. What a shame! The first owner only put on 400 miles himself, so I got a super-awesome deal on it, leaving me some $$$ for upgrades. Here's what I'm thinking. I'm hoping for suggestions about what I forgot, and possibly some better options available. 1st and most important: An EBR race ECM calibrated for the stock exhaust http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/fuel-injection/1125r-preprogrammed-ecm-for-us e-with-pump-gas.html 2nd: Corbin seat http://corbin.com/buell/hdb1125.shtml 3rd:a GPRv4 steering stabilizer 5011-4045B http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/gpr-v4-stabiliz er-buell-1125r 4th: T-Rex slider kit #N142 + N141-7F + N141-7R http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=503 5th: Jardine rear license plate delete 46-5001-03 http://www.solomotoparts.com/Jardine-Supersport-Fe nder-Kit-for-1125R-08-09/ 6th: Uly pegs: N0006.1AK 7th: Throttlemeister FT&ASDB2 http://throttlemeister.com/applications.html#Buell 8th:LCD rear-view camera: side mirror delete 9th: Barker slip-on exhaust *Edit: keeping the stock exhaust 10th: K&M air filter 11th: rear seat pegs and brackets delete and finally... paint the outer fairing Buell Blue By my math, it looks like about $2,000 in parts plus paint. I have the cash now and I'd rather get it all done at once. So, what have I forgotten? Thanks in advance for sharing your expert advice. Parts are expensive, and knowledge is priceless! (Message edited by the_dude on April 06, 2015) | ||
| B2tomtom |
Welcome to the 1125 world! Sounds like you have a pretty good list to start off with. If you're interested I have an almost new blue with a black dial GPR for an 1125R that I was considering getting rid of. PM me if you're interested. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Actually number ONE should be de-noid and tie the throttle disks together. Enjoy the ride, these bikes make RC-51s and TLRs look like mopeds. Z | ||
| Sprintst |
Welcome!! EBR ECU will take care of the denoid issue I bought my 09 about 2 years ago with 120 miles on it. 3 years and 120 miles = shot fork seals in a few thousand miles and a leaky engine seal. Watch for that, I've had 2 bikes now that sat for years and dried out seals Haven't had a Corbin, but I had a Saddleman on my 08 and liked it so much I bought another for my 09. http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17323-SP I have personally tested the 5-Odro axle sliders, and they work. http://www.5-0dro.com/index.php/buell/1125-models/ 2008-20102013-01-19-02-24-09/1125-black-sliders-de tail. Haven't needed the frame sliders, my side fairings have done the job, along with better engine pucks http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16332 Just got the throttlemeisters for this bike, work well K&N air filter, always good Stuck with stock exhaust on both 08 and now my 09. I like the stealth(y) sound What you've forgotten - the 2009/2010 had an upgraded stator for higher output, but this leads to heat damage issues. HD did a wiring harness patch, but it doesn't work well. Look at upgrading to the EBR Stator mod - http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/engine/2009-2010-charging-system-rotor-modifi cation.html See the subforum for more information on this issue (Message edited by sprintst on April 05, 2015) | ||
| The_dude |
Much appreciated, all. B2tomtom: Pm'd. Zac4Mac: I didn't understand this: "Actually number ONE should be de-noid and tie the throttle disks together." I read that an EBR ECM will resolve several issues with the engine. So I should do that, right? But why would I tie the throttle disks together? Sprintst: Thanks for the rotor upgrade suggestion. I didn't even know that was a potential issue. Is this a professional-mechanics-only job, or can the average spark-plug changer do it? Dried seals: Are there any precautions I can take? Is this a wait-and-see-what-happens thing? Fork seals leaking would affect handling, that would be dangerous, right? What will be my first indication? I appreciate the seat and sliders suggestions. I hadn't seen those products before. Funny you mentioned the stock muffler. I like the sound, too - but the Barker weighs 14lbs less than stock - to me, the only good reason to change it. As I was riding yesterday I was thinking - this bike has so much power the tires will let go of the asphalt before the motor is producing full power. Unless I'm racing professionally, 14lbs isn't going to affect performance by any measurable amount. Besides, more weight means more grip. So I can keep the stock exhaust, save $500, and the bike might even perform better for my needs. Thank you! You just saved me $500! You know, this means now I owe you one.  | ||
| Sprintst |
The stator swap is pretty do-able. You won't need to drop or rotate the engine. You will need to drop the exhaust. There is a crank tool to prevent rotation and you need a big torque wrench, but otherwise it's pretty easy. Check the subforum, lot's of info there. My 2009 had problems by 4300 miles, and had partially toasted the stator, but was still usable. It had the factory harness "fix", but by then damage was occurring and I was losing electrical power and starting capability. No issues since the fix, have 13k now Dried seals - no, not much you can do. Just something to keep in mind. My fork seals went at 5500, naturally on the first day of a trip to the Tail of the Dragon. Oil pouring all over the front brake rotor ended my day. Too much smoke going down the mountain! lol (seriously) Hopefully you won't have an issue. Fork seals were easy to do, the engine seal was a lot more involved. Ah, also - might want to get the EBR front brake rotor mounting kit - improved performance, better heat transfer, pretty cheap - http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/parts-accesso ries/brakes/front-brake-rotor-mounting-kit.html I'm a big guy, living in the mountains, ride pretty hard. I like the EBC pads. I've done the caliper rebuild kit, master cylinder rebuilt, but still don't like all the take up on the front brakes, so will be doing a brembo rcs19 master cylinder soon. So seals-wise, I've had to do the forks, an engine seal behind the clutch housing, and the clutch activator (leaking). Needed to do the front caliper rebuild kit at 11k (couple frozen pistons it turned out). Choose to do clutch and front brake master cylinder rebuilds. I do think most of it had to do with the bike sitting for 3 years unused before I got it. I didn't have these issues with my 2008 Still, all said, love the bike, many of the fixes give you a chance to upgrade, so.... | ||
| B25urgandy |
"Funny you mentioned the stock muffler. I like the sound, too - but the Barker weighs 14lbs less than stock - to me, the only good reason to change it. As I was riding yesterday I was thinking - this bike has so much power the tires will let go of the asphalt before the motor is producing full power. Unless I'm racing professionally, 14lbs isn't going to affect performance by any measurable amount. Besides, more weight means more grip. So I can keep the stock exhaust, save $500, and the bike might even perform better for my needs. Thank you! You just saved me $500! You know, this means now I owe you one. " Ha! reading that I think you just saved me $500 as well. looks like I owe you one back! But... I'm still deciding on the Dean MT-1 or the Hawk 1125 modified stock cans. I love the look of the Hawk but there hasn't been many people with them and how they might work with an EBR em, I'm assuming the stock tune would work good but he does a lot to them to make me think the stock tune might not be best. SprintST: How did you know your brake had brake pistons seize? reducing braking power? Brake drag? (Message edited by B25urgandy on April 07, 2015) | ||
| Sprintst |
one of the "tricks" I've picked up working on this bike is that when I've got the front wheel out, I will apply the brake and extend the pistons inward, apply some cleaner fluid, clean, then push them back in. Really makes the brake response feel much better. Now, the pistons certainly never all move in and out the same, due to design (how the fluid is moved internally) and friction differences between the different pistons. I had several that simply didn't want to move no matter how I held the ones that would move. I think I just reassembled and ordered a rebuild kit During the rebuild, I found 2 pistons pretty stuck. As I recall, I ended up clamping all the good pistons and using a whole lot of air pressure to blow out the stuck ones. (Message edited by sprintst on April 07, 2015) | ||
| Zac4mac |
You are right, the race ECM will not fire the 'noid so there's no real need to remove it, but it is a heavy piece of useless metal and easy to remove. Just add a terminator resistor to the harness plug after unplugging the 'noid. The throttle plates on the linkage are held together by a spring just to the left of the rear throttle body. At WOT the butterflies can flutter a bit, so a lot of us have tied the 2 together, physically keeping them in synch. | ||
| The_dude |
"but it is a heavy piece of useless metal" Now I'm thoroughly confused. What's the 'noid again? I thought he was a blue gremlin that screws up your pizza order? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Its full name is Active Air Solenoid and its only raison d'être is to pass EPA noise limits. It works by shutting the butterflies as the bike goes by the test mic. Really scary if it shuts you down when you're trying to pass a big truck. I think it's a couple of pounds. Z | ||
| Nobuell |
Removing the solenoid will also lighten the throttle action a bit. | ||
| Dannybuell |
get the seat pins at American Sport bike! this is a must do!! http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/A16501.html |
