| Author | Message | ||
     Aeromech1234 |
So hello, My name is Robert and I'm a bike-o-halic. I bought a 2008 Buell 1125R with just shy of 18,000 miles about a month ago and I've noticed some stuff that I'm hoping y'all can help me with. I'm commuting in phoenix, normally I work grave shift but this week I pulled a few day shifts and actually had to sit in traffic. I was seeing average temps of 200°f with the highest at 211°f. Is this normal? Outside air temp was around 93°f. Also, I'm having an issue with the engine dying while sitting at signals, or actually when I try to leave the signal. After I've sat at the signal for a bit, the signal goes green, I grab the throttle and as soon as I twist it, the engine just stops. Not bogs down, but just stops like the piston hit a wall. It starts back up, but this concerns me more than a little. Just a side note, the problems are separate, due to the length of my commute, the bike has ample time to shed the higher temps before I exit the freeway. So I'm never on the surface streets with temps above 190°f Also, the previous owner told me about changing the ecm to match the aftermarket pipe he put on. Maybe a cause? Thanks for any insight! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
might want to check the clutch lever switch...it talks to the ECM....the "stock" ecm program usually raises the RPM when the clutch is pulled in the stock ECM was designed to meet emission standards...if the PO changed the pipe....yes get a matching ecm or find someone in your area that can communicate with the ECM and dyno tune it. here's a link to some old posts about the '08 1125r http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/525759.html?1379285142 Note! the '08 have a parasitic battery drain due to the anti-theft program in the instrument panel (IC)...make sure you ALWAYS shut off the bike with the kill switch on the handle bar or turn the key off and then hit the kill switch...otherwise you may not have enough juice in the battery to start the bike. hope this helps...you have some great roads in Az...enjoy them! here's a link to recent temperature concerns from another copper state rider: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/759072.html?1427563444 (Message edited by nuts4mc on March 30, 2015) | ||
| Brokengq |
Hey Robert. Welcome to BadWeb and congrats on your first Buell! The first situation you described is normal with the stock ECM. The bike runs warm in hot traffic, and anything up to about 220 degrees is typically ok. Changing to an EBR ECM to match your exhaust will also have the added benefit of the race mapping with the fans turning on at around 150-160 degrees instead of 170. As far as cutting out at red lights I would begin with following these instructions for a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) reset: 1. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position. 2. Turn the ignition key to the On position. 3. With the engine off, rotate the throttle grip from its closed throttle position to the wide-open throttle position and back to closed position three (3) times, holding the throttle grip against each stop (open and closed) for one (1) full second. 4. Cycle the ignition key off and back on. A properly calibrated TPS sensor will indicate 3.7 to 4.2 volts for wide open throttle. (This is viewed in diagnostic mode, which is accessed by holding down the MODE and TOGGLE buttons while turning the key on) A few questions for you, just so we can have some follow up ideas just in case that doesn't work. Have the valves ever been inspected/adjusted? Did the bike ever sit? How new is there battery? What kind of exhaust? I just want to know. Hope this helps, Chris | ||
| Ljm |
Hey, Robert, What they said. I have two 1125's in Phoenix, run above 200 while sitting, but down about 5 degrees with the race ecm. On the freeway, in the high 180's even at 110 outside and above. There is a group of buell riders in Phoenix. They are meeting next Monday night, and meet one time a month on the first Monday. You can find them in the Storm Fronts thread under Arizona Buellers. Two guys have 1125's and a variety of other dating to the 90's. Priscilla and I are there rarely, travel a lot and work out of state but there is a consistent group that gets together. For work on the bike, Andre. Shop address, 6013 w. Glendale Ave. Ph# 623-322-7555. Avoid Harley shops for any work. Andre is the only buell tech that I know of in the Valley. Parts when you can from American Sport Bike. Some parts available from EBR (clutch slave), good threads on here for things like rear bearings, valve shims, other stuff. LJM | ||
| Aeromech1234 |
Thanks for the responses! To answer a few of the questions. The exhaust is Barker. And the PO did change the ecm to one that was tuned for the bike. The bike did sit for a while before I bought it. The PO got a new bike and relegated this one to the garage. Not sure how long. The day I bought the bike, I got one start out of the battery for the test ride, but when I went to leave after handing over the money the battery wouldn't get the job done. Had to jump it. I rode home and put it on a trickle charger for 6 hours and it's started OK since. I do intend to change it before summer. And I am going to get a battery tender based on some posts I read last night, I think it will help. The PO said that he had taken it in for service at 14k miles and the valves were perfect. No adjustment required. I'll try that throttle process tomorrow when I get time and see if it helps. Thanks LJM for the invite, what time do they meet? I work grave shift on Monday nights so a quick stop might be possible if the time is right. | ||
| Brokengq |
Do you know if they changed the plugs during that service? They were due at 10k. Also, typically the valves aren't "perfect" at 14k miles. I could see them being within spec, but I would personally inspect myself. It's a day job, and I know that's hard when you just bought the bike and want to ride. I did that when I bought mine. If you can when you get the time post your o2 sensor stats off the diag mode. That *can* occasionally give an idea about the valves. Also with it being an 08 there is a small issue with the ignition wiring (easy fix) that could be causing your stalling. The wiring was too short from the factory and turning the handlebars puts increased amounts of stress on it, if it is broken from this it could kill the bike. Provided you have the right tools its about an hour fix if done properly. Also, if you like, you can pop off the left side radiator pod with a torx bit and look at the ECM. It should say "RACE USE ONLY" if it has been swapped to an EBR tuned ECM to match your pipe. Personally, I never trust PO's unless I have known them a while. Good luck. (Message edited by brokenGQ on March 30, 2015) (Message edited by brokenGQ on March 31, 2015) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Actually the electrical issue with the switch is open-circuit failures, not shorts. I have re-soldered the wires to my switch so many times one of the pads sunk and quit making contact. New switch fixed that. I have also relieved the fairing stay so it puts less pressure on the wires. I have also increased the wire strand-count for more flex. I continue to have issues but they're easy to fix..... Z | ||
| Ljm |
They usually meet at 6:30. They were going to go to Casa Grande, but it looks like they may just move it back to Chase's Diner because no one seems to be interested in riding down. Check in the Storm Fronts. They are talking about it and looks like they are just going to do it there this Monday. | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
Hello Robert and welcome. Albeit I'm new as well. I too live in Phoenix and just got my 08 1125R a month ago as well. Awesome bike and I just love it. It's also equipped with a Barker exhaust and "Race On" ECM. But the temps you saw that day are very similar to what I had seen. Normal days in light traffic would cross the 200°F mark. Had a hot day and was stuck in stop and go traffic on the I-17. Temps rose to 214°F, scare the crap out of me. For the most part this is normal of any v-twin and the slightly flawed design of the 1125's cooling system does not help. First thing I did was flush out the coolant and replace it with 50/50 water wetter. Now its 175-183 normal riding, with 198-202 in stop and go. Plus its sheds off heat a lot faster. (Food for thought, the first flush ended up being 70% water, 30% wetter. Bike wouldn't rise over the 180s. When I corrected it to 50/50, the temps did suffer a bit to the levels mentioned above. Shows how pure water is the best coolant, thermally speaking, but horrible antifreeze and lubricant, lol) Also I too have experienced the random shutting off from a stop light. Thought it was just me failing at taking off at first, but then seemed too clean of a shut off for a failed throttle/clutch maneuver. Would also like to know what might be causing that. Ljm I'm so looking you guys up. Would love to meet other Buellers. | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
Forgot to add. Looking at installing a third Spal fan on the oil cooler to see if it helps. Summer is coming and you know that means 110+°F is around the corner. I'll be posting up my finds on my other thread as it progresses. See if it helps with temps and how much of a strain it'll be on the 08's charging system. | ||
| Brokengq |
Zac, You are correct about that. Broken wires are the cause of the issue, not shorting on the fairing stay. I had to think back to my issue with this, I apologize for the misinformation and edited my original post. My solution was similar, soldering in wires with a higher strand count, as well as making them significantly (3 inches or so) longer. This allows more movement, as well as makes future repairs easier should issues arise. The idea was to be able to cut and resolder breaks as necessary without having to replace wiring. The extra wire made it a little tricky at first to try and hide, but I solved that by securing the connector between the headlight bezels and putting conduit down the neck. I too filed out my fairing stay with a round bastard file to avoid a hard contact between the harness and the stay. I don't have any problems riding anymore, but for some reason occasionally my lights turn on while moving the handlebars around even when the key is out of the ignition. The issue is rare and until it becomes a problem or my next valve service is due it will just stay that way. (Message edited by brokenGQ on March 31, 2015) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Bingo, Chris. I still have an occasional issue but the up-time keeps getting longer. As far as your lights, I can't imagine a wire insulation problem that would do that. I'd say 90%+ it's at the switch, wire moving and hitting an adjacent hot pad on the switch. Z | ||
| Brokengq |
Zac, I hope it is a wire touching and not the pads in the switch being burned out. Nobody will sell just the switch. Everyone wants you to buy the lock cylinder and keys too, and that just isn't worth it to me. It would make sense though. The switch has been resoldered 3 times now I think and I'm sure the repeated heat has burned some contacts. (Message edited by brokenGQ on April 01, 2015) | ||
| Skntpig |
When doing the TPS reset make sure you leave the key off for at least 2 seconds before restarting. Welcome and nice to have you here. |
