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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » A few questions; stator, harness, bolt... « Previous Next »

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B25urgandy
Posted on Tuesday, March 17, 2015 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I'm gearing up to install the big 3. I found my bike did have the recall done to it. So I removed the harness simple enough, but here is my concern; I downloaded the HD recall instructions and I see that they reprogrammed the ECM as well when the harness (band-aid) was being installed. I removed the recall harness, plugged stator into regulator (original setup before recall), and I reconnected the active air intake solenoid to its original harness (see picture) I'm correct in connections Orange 1(left #1 arrow) to orange 2(right #2 arrow) correct? Since Red 1 and Red 2 originate from the harness fix. There was also the little black plug (see picture, green 1) that goes into the ECM that controls the relay (see picture green 2), thats the part where I am concerned. Since it's plugged into nothing can I removed that plug from the ECM? and will it cause me to throw a code? I do not have the EBR ECM that will come in due time (I'm a college student $$$ is tight). I've read about just taping it up and leaving it but when it was installed they did a terrible job and its an eyesore as it follows no clean path and looks very out of place.

Next question I ordered a 32mm deep well socket to get the rotor bolt off, but I'm concerned its not deep enough from the pictures I've seen. It's about 1.25 inches deep where then there is a lip that goes down another 1/4 of an inch (see picture). I'm guessing I'll need another deeper socket.

Third question, based off a post I've read it seams you need to oil the ignition (stator) cover before you reassemble everything? The post I read had a few people say they put the cover on dry and the crankshaft made contact with the cover and caused it to "gall-up" and in a sense embed itself into the cover. I would never have thought about doing that but from reading the post I'll make sure I have a fresh layer of oil on the inside cover. Are there any more tips to help so I don't f-up? I have the Buell manual and printed out hailstorms and BAFs write-ups.
edit: after posting I see by orange and red colored arrows/numbers are very similar in appearance, on my phone the orange was notably more orange. So the leftmost #1 is orange and the rightmost #2 is orange.




(Message edited by B25urgandy on March 17, 2015)

(Message edited by B25urgandy on March 17, 2015)
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Ari1125r
Posted on Sunday, March 29, 2015 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The answers to your questions:

1. The electric tape on the extra harness from ECM will do. Don't need to buy a new ECM from EBR; It's been 2 months since I did the repairs and no CEL has come on with over 1000 miles since the repairs were done.

2. the socket you have will work fine, I used an off the shelf lug nut socket. The heat gun was also an amazing tool to loosen up the nut and rotor off the crank shaft. Make sure to tighten it to 295 ft-lb as instructed on: http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/2009-2010-cha rging-system-rotor-modification.html

3. while lubrication will help, the best way to get the case off and on is to screw on three or four long bolts in the holes where you took off the original bolts and use them as a guide, this will also help with keeping the gasket in place while your fitting the case cover back on. I bought the long bolts from a local hardware store.

I hope this helps.
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Shawns
Posted on Monday, March 30, 2015 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can purchase the socket from Harbor Freight relatively cheap.
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