| Author | Message | ||
     Russmannnn |
My 2008 1125R has some weird things going on and I’m thinking about parting it out A few years ago I was in the last 2 weeks of my extended warranty when I had some issues the crank shifted messed up some gears and took out the cam chain tensioners. I ended up getting one of the very last brand new 2010 motors in my 2008 R, and put about 3,000 miles on it. I think from day one with the new motor it was low on oil. It burned the balance gears under the stator, and I found this out after about 3,000 miles I heard a weird noise around the stator. I thought it was just the stator router nut. After taking everything off I found the balance gears were very pitted and you could see where the gears were under way to much heat. I was able to pick up another set of gears off Ebay instead of buying them for $900.00. We installed the new gears and went to fire up the R to see if the noise was corrected. It fired up for about 5 seconds and shut its self off after the Instrument Cluster blinked a few times. Now if I turn on the ignition all I get is the rear taillight nothing more no signals, horn, and blacked out cluster. I do get the brake light if I hit either brake and that’s it. We checked all the grounds, fuses, relays and everything electrical we could think of. We also checked the key switch to see if any of the parts inside were broken and it all looked normal. The bike has been sitting for almost 2 years there was a little bit of fuel in the frame and I really wasn’t sure how to get it out without any electric any suggestions? My R is a 2008 with a new 2010 motor. The new motor had an issue with low oil and the balance gears needed replaced because of it. There may be more to it or that may be it. I was never able to get it fired back up long enough to know if the issue was fixed. I’m at the point know where I just want to either part it out or see if anyone here wants a great loaner or project bike. The electrical part has me worried because I travel a lot and don’t want to run the risk of having and expensive break down far from home. It could be a really easy fix I have no clue about or the whole electrical system could be screwed? I really don’t have the time to find out and I figure if someone else wants to take it on here it is. Bike Details Brand New 2010 motor with 3,000 miles it had an issue with the balance gears Keda RT3 with EBR ECM (with engine braking) Rear Fender Eliminator New rear tire Pilot Power 2CT Neither of the rims have damage but the rear one is dirty from brake dust. Flexie Glass Full Faring Kit along with Flexie Glass Front Fender painted black to match also all original body work. The frame and swing arm don’t have any damage however there is more than likely bad gas in the frame that needs to be pumped out it’s not a lot but there is some in there. I have all the paperwork for when the new motor was put it cost around $6,000 $4,000 was for the motor covered by Harley and I had to pay the difference for it to be installed. I want to get $3,000 from parting it out and I don’t think that’s unreasonable. I would rather it all go to one person however I am also willing to part it out I’m located in Ohio and if you have any questions please let me know. Thanks Russell | ||
| Brokengq |
Hi Russell, Hate to hear you're going through these troubles with your R. One thing I can say though it that they are tough motors and withstand a lot of abuse. I find it unlikely that the whole bike is shot over what's going on. As far as the balancer gears go, there is a very nice thread on here I can try to find about this issue that a few others have had, and now that you have replaced them the bulk of the work is over if I recall correctly. As far as the cluster blacking out on you, that is pretty typical for an 08 R if the ignition switch wiring is broken. These wires were not made long enough from the factory, and it was corrected in 09. The simple fix is to remove the switch (two tamper-proof torx head screws) and examine the wiring. If you find a break there are two options: one is the cheaper and more simple route of just soldering in new (longer of course) wires and running it. The second is to buy a switch from and 09 and route it in such a way that there is minimal binding. When my switch went out, all I had was headlights. No cluster, starter, anything. Just headlights. If that is the problem with your bike it should be an easy fix, not to mention the switch is easy to remove and repair. If you still want to go the route of parting out, and the bike has a clean title, I have linked someone that may be interested in buying it from you. Best of luck, Chris. | ||
| Russmannnn |
Thanks for the information I did check the switch and everything looked ok I may try to get an 09 switch off eBay or somewhere and see if that may help kinda sounds like that may be part of the problem | ||
| Brokengq |
The wires tend to break inside the bundle right around the fairing stay. | ||
| Mrsuperbuckets |
I would like to see some pictures of the bike, if you wouldnt mind. | ||
| Mitchg |
EBR ECM (with engine braking) Any more info on this "engine braking"? | ||
| Nuimageaudio |
I just wrecked mine, I'd be interested in quite a few parts if not the whole bike as t the right price. | ||
| Dannybuell |
'engine braking' is referring to the Idle Air Control (IAC). early ECM and the stock ECM are torque monsters! The later EBR ECM's set the IAC idle up. This makes up or down shifting much easier, RPM matching between gears is not as critical. EBR and the racers think this is the way to go. Nothing happens when you downshift, no torque. :-( | ||
| Russmannnn |
It will be a few days for pictures we are going threw a remodel and have all kinds of junk in the garage. Should have some crap cleared out by the weekend. | ||
| Rick_fears |
Where are you in ohio? I'm interested and local. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I've ridden with the engine braking enabled and with it disabled. I hated it with it disabled--you close the throttle and instead of the bike decelerating moderately, it barely decelerates at all. I found myself needing to use the front brake to slow for corners that I could previously slow for just using engine braking. (This is on the street, not the track.) Sucks about your engine problems--hope the advice you get helps you get it resolved! | ||
| Shawns |
I would be interested in a few bits as well. I think you should be able to get it sorted out with some help from fellow Buellers. | ||
| Russmannnn |
Rick I'm near Lima Ohio. I do think I'm going to try a key switch and see if that may help, and depending how that goes decide what to do after that. | ||
| Rodrob |
As far as the balancer gears go, the critical issue is, what did the bearing surfaces in the cases look like. Was there scoring and discoloration from wear and heat? I disagree that the engine can take a lot of abuse. Yes it can be run hard, but a drop in oil pressure or oil contamination can cause case bearing damage very quickly. Since the bearing surfaces are machined into the case, the only real fix, is replacing the case. I know from experience. If the bearings were clean and smooth, the the rest of the motor is probably OK as long as all the contamination from the gears was complete cleaned out. which is not easy to do without tearing down the engine. Everything else should be pretty easy to fix. | ||
| Rick_fears |
I am actually in Lima right now. I will be in town until about 4 o'clock today. Get ahold of me if you get a chance. 1740 three 576892. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Russ, I would be interested in ECM and exhaust | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
Russ, if you part, I'd be interested in the blue swingarm and the main wiring harness. Very possibly the stator cover as well. S | ||
| Nuimageaudio |
I would be more than interested in the whole bike for 3k. Like have money in hand interested. You can email me at de_ja_vu_2@hotmail.com. |
