| Author | Message | ||
     Yankwb |
Okay, let me preface with I am NOT very mechanically inclined. I have had my bike for a little over a month and I have had some issues trying to start the bike. When I go to start it, it will turn once and the dash will lose power and it will stop trying to turn and a system voltage error will blink. I can continue holding the ignition and in a second or 2 it will start turning again and start. That was the last few weeks. Today, I rode for about 10 minutes, just installed fmf exhaust, turned it off to sit and when I tried to start the dash kept losing power and finally started after about 60 seconds of trying. Not sure what I need to have looked at. Any suggestions? By the way, I have looked tirelessly on the forum and a lot of the info was above my pay grade... | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
Sounds like an almost dead battery. Do you use a trickle charger? If not get one short trips kill batteries not enough time to recharge. These bikes love juice when starting | ||
| Shawns |
Mine stays on a tender. A weak battery will definitely give you that error. Take the battery to your local auto parts store for a test. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Charge the battery then check the resting voltage. If it's below 12.3 the battery needs to be replaced. | ||
| Yankwb |
Thanks, been out of town. I don't keep it on a tender, but I will start today. Hooked it up, and that was the problem. Thanks for the input | ||
| Ari1125r |
Here is my compilation for all of whom that are experiencing the same issue, I just bought a 09 1125r and got a great deal on it because it had a dead battery at the dealer and the battery was not keeping charge; a sign of the faulty charging system that is a very common issue in the 09 and 10 1125 models. This video is going to help you understand how the charging components all work together to charge the battery: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivOML54j1_s From my research I found out that the Buell Rotax engine 1125cc stator does not have a cooling system due to a design flaw in the rotor (Erik Buell Racing has solved this issue on their modified stators by creating an orifice to spray oil on the stator and cool it down). The other contributing factor the the excessive heating of the stator is the voltage regulator/rectifier; using a series (instead of the shunt type) voltage regulator/rectifier will help to mitigate the excessive heating. Here is a simple test you can do to find out for yourself if your stator is bad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oag9bKcJUM0 If that's the case you need to purchase the following items: -The modified rotor from EBR (http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ 2009-2010-charging-system-rotor-modification.html) -Stator (I'm still researching my options) -Voltage regulator/rectifier (has to be the series type) -Battery; only if it no longer holds charge due to being damaged by the faulty charging system (12V 12AH 200CCA, I found this to be the best bang for the money: PowerSonic PTX14LBS-FS AGM Battery Replaces YTX14L-BS) Oh... I almost forgot, there is a crank locking tool that is essential for this job (http://www.5-0dro.com/index.php/specials/twin-moto rcycles-buell-1125r-cr-09-10-burned-stator-fixing- kit-80-detail) These are the steps you need to take for replacing these parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Smio69nfA2Q https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oVSjXvEIook https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfXS4vzaMOU I spent hours and days researching this problem and trying to find the permanent fix for it, I hope this post help you save some time and get right to the purchasing, fixing, and of course the final result that is getting back on the bike and finding some winding roads  | ||
| Coastrambler |
And knowing when a fix is the fix can be difficult too. My previous stator, number 4, lasted 18,000 miles with a stock VR before THEY failed. I now have a series VR. It's out in the wind and runs barely warm. Have about 4,000 miles on it now. I ponder when to consider it fixed. | ||
| 1eyert |
My 2008 1125R stator died at 16000 miles, I had the stator rewound locally for $100, picked up the gasket from American Sport Bike for $17 and the series VR kit from roadstercycle for $170. I had the VR mounted in the wind just before the license plate mount. I had this done along with the valve adjustment. The total cost of parts was about $300 and the shop charged me $275 labor. So far charging fine 12.1 volts at idle in traffic with both fans running temps ~200 degrees. Up to 14.3 while moving, always keep revs up above 4000 RPM. Hope this helps. | ||
| Ari1125r |
Here is an update to my earlier post... I've been shopping around and found a great deal on the stator: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/2009-Bue ll-1125CR-Stator I was also able to get in touch with the closest EBR dealer and order the crank locking tool for almost half the price of the tool that I provided the link for in my previous post. Since I had to make a trip to the dealership, I also ordered the EBR modified rotor, stator cover gasket, and the nut from the same dealer instead of the EBR website to save the shipping cost. Here is the link to find a dealer near you: http://www.erikbuellracing.com/find-your-dealer/ Lastly, I found a great deal for the Cycle Electric CE-607 series-type voltage regulator and rectifier on Amazon.com I'm planning to start the repairs next week and will post more updates. (Message edited by ari1125r on January 31, 2015) (Message edited by ari1125r on January 31, 2015) | ||
| Ari1125r |
I wrapped up all the repairs yesterday and everything works great. The voltage does not drop below 13.8 with both fans and high beams on at the same time. Let me know if you need detailed explanation about the charging system or how to fix it. | ||
| Righteousbrother1 |
Hi Guys, #I had a similar problem. Replaced everything bar the stator/rotor. Does anyone know if i can get these parts in uk ? preferably not the OEM parts . thanks Luke | ||
| Dannybuell |
twinmotorcycles.nl has the FIX for the euro Buell market. http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/index.asp?gu id=YXHFSC&mc=1 |
