| Author | Message | ||
     Pb259773 |
Froggy mention this in another thread... As you have probably read, there is an issue with the stator design on 2009 and 10 models, but EBR has a fix with a modified rotor cup to cool the stator off... I am new to the CR a 2009, had other Buells but was curious about this... My bike has on 3500 miles on it runs fine, Stole it from a guy  but would like to know more about this issue an if there is a parts list for the fix and where to buy from. Thanks | ||
| Froggy |
Long story short, starting with 2009 models, Buell increased the output of the charging system by putting a bigger/higher output unit in. The problem: At lower RPMs, the stator does not get sufficient cooling. This results in it overheating and failing. Those who use the bike for commuting duty, riding around town, etc, are likely to experience a failure. Those who keep the RPMs up, like track day racers, rarely experience failures. The solution, is to get the modified rotor from EBR. EBR takes the stock rotor cup, modifies it using a special drilling method to install an oil cooling jet. This jet substantially cools the stator off, so it can be ridden at any speed without damaging the stator. This modified rotor is available as a core exchange. EBR sends you a modified rotor, and holds a deposit that is reimbursed once the stock one is returned to them. $175 + $250 for the refundable deposit. http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ 2009-2010-charging-system-rotor-modification.html The issue with this replacement is the tools and labor involved with swapping the rotor. It requires a special tool to lock the crank in position, and you will need a torque wrench or other method that is capable of applying 300 foot lbs of torque to the rotor nut. The locking tool is available from EBR, but you may be able to borrow it from another member on here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/734073.html?1413402301 A friend of mine, BAF, did the swap on his bike and made a great write up. He did additional things like rewound his stator, and replaced the voltage regulator. Neither of those are required, unless they have failed. https://baf.zone/projects/1125-charging-system/wri teup.html | ||
| No_rice |
another solution is the 08 setup. they can be had second hand, and work flawlessly. that being said, i also never had a problem with my 1125cr for the 6000 miles i had it. | ||
| Froggy |
While the 08 setup works (it is what I am using on my CR), it typically will be harder to find and more expensive than swapping the rotor. Also, the 08 setup requires you to get the 08 rotor in addition to the stator, so it is a little more work to install. Downside to the 2008 setup is lower electrical output, which means you can't run as many accessories, and it is easier to discharge the battery. The EBR rotor is currently the best and most practical solution. | ||
| 04colly |
I'll be the first to let anyone know if the 2010 suffers from the same issues | ||
| Froggy |
You won't be the first, it does  | ||
| Pb259773 |
Thanks for the info. I guess I'll continue riding it like I stole it and hope the ugly doesnt rear its head. Neighbors think I'm nuts anyway. Just wait til I get that new pipe and race emc.. hoooya (Message edited by pb259773 on November 21, 2014) | ||
| Dannybuell |
This should be your first move... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBYEYGJfyBw&featur e=youtu.be | ||
| 04colly |
There were only 300 1125 bikes built for 2010 roughly. I have yet to see another on the forums. | ||
| Pb259773 |
Donny did i miss something.. was there new parts for this fix or was just unplug from one place and plug into another? Thnks | ||
| Froggy |
Don't unplug it unless you are having issues. The video shows the relay harness that was added to the bikes after the factory closed via a customer satisfaction program. The added relay is ECM controlled and switches the stator from a three phase to a single, reducing the the overheating issue. The relay is known to fail and cause issues, and it is not guaranteed to prevent issues with the stator, but unplugging it and going back to the stock setup is not recommended unless you are troubleshooting issues or have the EBR rotor. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Harley made Buell increase the output of the charging system Fixed it for ya, Frank I had a stator failure on my CR, original owner, at about 1500 miles. Did the recall - harness, reflash, new stator, new battery. 9k miles now, no issues. - I ride over 4500rpm - I have an HID low beam - I have an LED high beam - I have Buell heated grips - I have Gerbings heated clothes (jacket/gloves) - I have a '10 factory LED taillight - I have a Garmin Quest II GPS - and that sums up my electrical mods. Rev it, ride it, enjoy it (Message edited by ratbuell on November 24, 2014) | ||
| Generalcuz |
I did the stator and rotor upgrade last year and it was well worth it. Ran multiple 600 mile days on it on wide open roads and then rode in stop and go traffic throughout this past summer with no problem. Now, to address the crappy rear brake, replace the tires, and overhaul forks before the spring of 2015. My 1125cr just passed 10,000 miles. I have a personal goal of riding it to 20,000 miles. | ||
| Coastrambler |
OK, Will jump in here. My thoughts and some data. Last stock stator and stock voltage rectifier/regulator on my '09 1125 lasted 18,000 miles before failure. Which causes which to fail I believe is still in question. With the '09 increased output from the alternator the stock series VR must dump a lot more power to ground. So it will run hotter than an '08, which is not good. I've got about 3,000 miles on current setup. Stock rotor and stator. Compu-Fire 55402 VR. This is a series unit. Resulting in cooler running alternator and VR. I'm not a hi rpm rider. Rarely go over 6K. Turned 44,000 miles on the bike today. EBR moded rotor is a good idea too, will get one yet this winter. Going to send my rotor in, avoid tieing up $250. A little more. My HD Road Glide, an '06 has 122,000 miles on it. Original stator. Second VR, original failed a few years ago. My '06 St Rod (a V-Rod model) has 67,000 miles on it. I replaced the stator a few years ago only because it was leaking oil. Point being shunt VR and Hi output alternator setup can be reliable over the long haul. |
