| Author | Message | ||
     Snp304 |
Did a quick search and didn't see anything matching up..just bought her yesterday, 1125 CR with just over 11k.. Left for work this morning, got about 3 miles into the ride, coming up to a traffic light, the headlights and instrument cluster went dark..no lights, nothing, bike was still running. Did a uturn to go home. About 15 seconds after everything went dark everything came back on. Said screw it, continued on to work, which is almost 40 miles away...never had an issue since. At work now and figured I would throw it out there and see if there are any ideas to look for...thanks in advance | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Sounds like it may have been a voltage spike. Of course, if that were true, that may mean that your voltage regulator might be on it's way out. I would like to suggest a simple test... When you start up your bike, switch the view to watch the voltage. Not exactly sure what voltage shuts off the cluster, but I think it'll be around the 14.9 mark. IF it was the VR that did that, it's a pretty simple swap. Either way, keep us posted on what you find. And good luck!! | ||
| X1brett |
When the bike "went dark" did the cluster read "SYSTEM VOLTAGE"? I had this happen and it was that the voltage regulator went bad, like Dhays said. If the cluster was completely blank, I'd wonder about a bad connection or ground but I have not had experience with one going completely blank. Some people have discussed clusters going bad on this forum but I don't know what happens when they go bad. | ||
| Snp304 |
I snagged an electrical pdf today, will look into it later. Would the cluster take out the headlight? | ||
| Snp304 |
The only reason I realized the cluster was out was because there was no light around me at all. With the headlight going out the cluster would have stuck out like a sore thumb..it was pitch black around me, just like I had ridden into a black hole. I had initially thought that I had lost all power, that the bike had died, but the bike was still running... | ||
| Nuts4mc |
'08 or '09? 08= voltage regulator, old battery, bad battery connections, loose ground 09= bad stator, need rotor update/mod and possibly a new stator on this forum is a sub forum about charging issues...please check it out ...lot's of good info and trouble shooting tips get a multimeter...check for AC while the engine is running ( under the seat) at the big grey connector where the yellow wires come out of the engine( stator) should have 20-30 volts (AC) on each leg AtoB, BtoC, AtoC rev the engine readings should go up...do not check AC to ground. with the engine running check DC at the battery should be 12+ VDC hope this helps | ||
| Two_seasons |
Another thought is this may be related to your ignition switch. There were a couple of BadWebbers that have had the wiring harness from the ignition switch getting cut at the fairing stay. The wiring harness makes a very sharp turn at the fairing stay where it then goes to the frame. Check that out too. | ||
| Snp304 |
I think Dhays1775 may have hit it on the head. Hopped on the bike to head home after work. About 3 minutes into the ride, cluster and headlight goes dark. But, cluster is reading System Voltage, could not see that this morning since the backlight was dark. After about a minute, both come back on. Voltage reading was at 18 volts, finally worked its way down, read between 12.7 and 14.3 the rest of the way home... (Message edited by snp304 on November 13, 2014) | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Snp304, if you just want to replace it with a stock VR for now, I've got a known good one that I'll send your way for $20 including shipping. If you're interested, shoot me a pm. | ||
| Snp304 |
I wonder if this will be the start of stator problems? Not well versed enough with the symptoms. Just quickly checked and the stator it is not shorted to ground...that's a positive. The stator rewind was supposedly done...but I am not 100% sure | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Well, if the stator rewind was done, that's a good thing. If the EBR rotor was installed, that's an even better thing. But, the only way to check that is to pull the stator cover and look for a tiny hole on the rotor. So, with that being said, it should only cost about $350-400 to upgrade from where you are now (asuming you have a good stator, which your test most likely confirmed). With just the rotor upgrade, you'll see your voltage stabilize and the stator should last practically forever. I have about $500 in mine for the failure I knew would happen before I ever bought the beast, and it's great. Worth every penny. Some guys just continue to throw stators at them, then curse every time they burn up. Now is a good time to get in front of the broken glass. You will not regret it. | ||
| Butthurt |
This happened to me while riding my '09 R. I saw my whole instrument cluster shut off no message, just blank. The rpms went to zero but the bike was in 3rd going 50mph. Then a few seconds of me thinkin wtf? It goes back to normal no issue. Take a left hander at about 20 and the same thing I was close to home so stopped in the garage to think. Checked my battery grounds and they had vibrated a little loose. Every once in a while since then i lift the seat before my ride and make sure they are tight, hasnt happened since then. | ||
| Snp304 |
update...replaced the voltage regulator last night..went out for about an hour or so and had no issues at all. Everything seems to be in working order. Thanks to Dhays for the hook up and thanks to all on this board | ||
| Dhays1775 |
Glad to hear it!  |
