| Author | Message | ||
     Thefleshrocket |
I had my '08's rear wheel off to re-balance the tire. (It's a Q3 that somehow took 7 x 1/4 oz weights to balance initially, but clearly felt out of balance at higher speeds, so I took it off, removed and remounted the tire, and now it amazingly only takes 2.5 x 1/4 oz weights to balance.) When reinstalling the wheel, the upper caliper bolt just kept spinning. I took it off and, looking down the hole, it was clear I had cross threaded it. The threads are destroyed pretty much the entire depth of the hole. (I'm pretty sure I did the damage during a previous reinstallation, and this time just pushed it over the edge.) I've never repaired a destroyed bolt hole. From my understanding, I can either tap it (basically rethread it for a larger-diameter bolt) or helicoil it (which somehow magically repairs the threads). What do you guys recommend that I do, and why? | ||
| Hatch_daddy |
I'd recommend tapping. I've seen helicoils spin which often doesn't allow proper torque to be achieved. Tapping rethreads down to original metal and is much more secure. It's standard practice in aircraft maintenance, should be appropriate for motorcycles. | ||
| Wymaen |
I think the main concern with tapping it larger will be clearance in the through-holes on the rotor- there's not a ton of space for a cap screw much larger than what is stock. I would go Heli-Coil and the medium-duty threadlocker of your choice. The caliper mounting bolts don't actually have to be all that tight, as they aren't really load-bearing; they just need to maintain position against the rotation of the wheel when the brake is applied. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Just cross-threaded my front brake caliper on the S2T. Helicoil fixed it. Helicoil kits sold at your local HW store. | ||
| Sprintst |
helicoil You can try and tap it, but it's unlikely there is enough material left in there to work. It's aluminum, and those threads tend to get destroyed So then your only other choice would be to tap it in a larger thread size, but that introduces more issues - drilling out the caliper clearance hole, making sure the larger bolt fits through the rotor, etc.... Helicoil is your answer (Message edited by sprintst on October 30, 2014) | ||
| Jimustanguitar |
Put in a time-sert. They're a bit tougher than heli-coils. http://www.timesert.com/ | ||
| Northernyankee |
I am with Jim...Time-Sert is the way to go. They are a bit more expensive then the Helicoil, but way stronger and much less finicky to install...always had problems breaking off the tang on Helicoils. I had stripped a engine mount on the frame of my Gixxer Track bike, threw in a helicoil and never had another problem with it. | ||
| Jdugger |
Timesert. No question about it, the way to go. I have them all over the place on the race bike where the common service bolts simply do not hold up over time threaded into aluminum. | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Timesert & Helicoil are both very good but I'd give the edge to Timesert because of the tang breaking on Helicoils as stated as I've experienced also. Keep in mind either one should use a thread locker to keep them from eventually spinning; on the insert not the bolt and back off on the torque specs. somewhat. Bob | ||
| Dannybuell |
In 1997 my 96S1 was in for service at the HDB dealer getting the front brakes serviced. They did the same as you on my front fork and charged me for a timesert and install. The bike now has 105,000 miles and has had several brake jobs with no problems. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
The Timesert looks like a good way to make a permanent fix but.. damn, it's expensive. Looks like $80+ on Amazon, but I guess that's cheaper than replacing the swingarm or having the bolt back out and lock up my rear wheel. Thanks, everyone. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
On a side note, if a one-size-up bolt will fit through the hole in the rotor, is there any reason not to tap? That's pretty much free. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Ace hardware has helicoil kits for about $40... http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ ctId=33707956 | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I stopped by the hardware store, and the bolt is an M8x30. The next size up, M10, is a much larger diameter--even if it fits through the access hole in the rotor, it'll be too wide for the hole in the caliper. Too many review of helicoils say that they periodically need to be reapplied, so I'm not going to trust it for something as critical as the rear brake rotor. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I believe the M8 x 1.25 Timesert kit is the one I need. http://www.amazon.com/M8x1-25-thread-repair-kit-Ti me-Sert%C2%AE/dp/B00NWVHREQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid =1414713127&sr=8-2&keywords=timesert+1812 That kit only comes with 11.7mm inserts. The bolt is 30mm, and I figure about 20mm of that bolt is actually threaded into the swingarm. Do the Timesert inserts have a bottom to them? Ie, if I had a 10mm insert, could it only accept 10mm-long bolts, or could it accept any length? | ||
| Jdugger |
You will be fine. Most of the clamping is done in the first three threads. There's no bottom. | ||
| Northernyankee |
Time-sert makes inserts up to 30mm that are sold separately. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I'd probably be safe with the 11.7mm as Jdugger says, but it's only an extra $5 to get a 20mm insert, so I got one of them. (The hole is at least 30mm deep, as I was able to fully seat the bolt in it.) | ||
| Jossi |
Hi i use Helicoil almost daily at work its great specially at Alloy and Plastic bad side if you use impact gun or bolts that you loose often , If you use impact gun or loose the bolts often i can recommend Keenseerts things that we use on daily basis / Jossi | ||
| Sprintst |
A couple reasons I wouldn't tap to a larger size, though you can - less material left since the hole is larger - bike is now using a non standard part - aluminum threads suck, I'd welcome getting some good steel threads  | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
I use keenserts. They wont twist or spin. http://catalog.alcoafasteners.com/Category/keenser ts-reg- | ||
| Advanguard |
inserts are stronger than threaded aluminum, and gives more surface for the "bolt to insert" to grab onto the aluminum Key-Locking Inserts for Metals http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts /=ufvm8q (Message edited by Advanguard on November 03, 2014) | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Thanks for the other suggestions. My Time Sert set and inserts showed up today. Of course my drill is too long to fit between the swingarm, so I'm going to have to see if a buddy has one that's shorter. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I ended up buying a compact cordless drill as my buddy's cordless was slightly too long. I also had to pick up a tap wrench as one wasn't included and I didn't realize I needed one til I got to step 3. The whole procedure went surprisingly smoothly and quickly. I figured I was going to screw up drilling out the threads, but I didn't. I also figured I was going to cross-thread when tapping, but I didn't. The Timesert went in without any difficulty and feels secure. $170 later, it's fixed. (Timesert kit, inserts, drill and tap wrench.) Just in time for cold, riding-unfriendly weather. LOL | ||
| Zac4mac |
Flesh Make sure you run the install tap(final step) all the way thru. It expands the insert a bit and really anchors the insert well. I only say this b/c I didn't the first time I used a Timesert and had to re-do it. Z | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Zac, I'm pretty sure I ran it all the way through. Eyeballing it, I went past the end of the Timesert, but I didn't measure to confirm. The instructions said to NOT bottom it out so I didn't go until I couldn't turn it any more. I'll check the caliper regularly to make sure the bolt doesn't look like it's backing out. What happened to you when you didn't make yours tight enough the first time? Did it back out right away, or after a while, or.. ? | ||
| Freight_dog |
You can do what I did, have an accident, damage it and get your swinger replaced by insurance. Been very careful about those bolts ever since. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Freight_dog, care to elaborate? I assume you mean that one of the caliper bolts backed out, hit the rotor and locked up your rear tire, causing a crash. I used blue thread lock on both caliper mounting bolts. I'm confident that neither bolt will come loose. However, if the Timesert starts backing out, it'll only be able to back out a mm or two before it hits the caliper and stops. That won't be enough to make it where the bolt could contact the caliper, but it should be enough that I can eyeball it. | ||
| Ducbsa |
I've used these: http://www.essentracomponents.com/product/650-16/1 800145 Thicker wall and you can mix & match int & ext threads between inch and metric, to make tap drilling and tap purchase easier (or get to use an inch tap you already have.) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Nice price on those inserts! Any trouble installing them? The slot looks a little mickey mouse, but I assume you don't actually need it, if its hard to put in you just put it on your bolt first and put both in together. | ||
| Ducbsa |
I probably used a bolt and a locknut to insert. | ||
| Sprintst |
Tire balance - on Dunlops, the dot is the LIGHT spot | ||
| Freight_dog |
I had a car pull out in front of me and I went ass over teakettle. One of the lift stand lugs broke off taking a chunk of the swingarm with it. |
