| Author | Message | ||
     Firemanjim |
Never actually done this--- have swapped engines etc but just never this--- and wondered how much time/ effort needed? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Frame off is the easier method. If done this way, engine stand is a must! Kalali has been offering engine stands. PM him for more info. Figure a weekend to get it done. | ||
| Dennis_c |
If you can swap an engines you can do a valve check. I think its easer to pull the motor put rages around all holes have a small magnet and screw driver feeler gauge HD V Rod shims fit same part # as Buell. Get a service manual read first you should be able to reuse the old valve cover gaskets I did no leaks they are rubber. | ||
| Tbowdre |
time is relative... what else are you going to do? ceramic coat/wrap the headers? cover the inside of the frame with reflective material? will you buy a shim kit or just what you need from a shop? First time I would plan for the bike to be down a couple of days if you have a shim kit on hand and plan to do nothing but the valve check. Effort... not much really, no special tools... just patience. Removing the little plastic clips between the finger followers and making sure you don't stretch or pinch any wires when removing and installing the frame can be a challenge. lots of help available here | ||
| Smoke |
get a 10mm shim kit first. i think about $70 shipped. block the engine up after removing muffler and remove frame and front end. leave swingarm installed and on rear stand. pull plugs and rotate motor from stator/rotor side to tdc each cylinder DO NOT DROP SHIMS IN ENGINE WHILE REMOVING THEM!! PAY ATTENTION TO WHERE TO MEASURE!! first time took 2 days in the afternoons after work on the street bike. about 12 hrs total. much faster now on the race bikes. you have the necessary skills Jim! have fun, tim | ||
| Dwp138 |
Stirz007 is making stands also | ||
| Kruizen |
Just started this myself for the first time. Took me approx 2 hours to split the bike & remove suspension and couple of other items that I need to have refreshed after the season. Got my engine stand from stirz and it is quality. Can't actually start measuring and reassembling until this weekend. If your doing the valves do the spark plugs at the same time. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Seriously, remove the frame just to check valve clearances!! That is insane!!!!! This is not my bike but a prospective customer. No other work needed,just a routine inspection as called for . | ||
| Matteson |
Ive done 2 valve checks. The easiest was to remove frame. You never stated it was for a customer. Rotate motor then. I pulled forks just for more room on the rotate. | ||
| Northernyankee |
You can check the valves by just rotating, but it only take 45-60 minutes more to pull the frame. And if you have to swap shims or anything else you will have a much easier time if the frame is off. I have pulled my frame twice now and its not that bad. | ||
| Kruizen |
Since we are talking valves. Just got done doing mine. Split the frame from engine, it gave me unlimited space to check the clearances and change the shims. took me about 1.5 hours to split it and 2 hours to put it back together, really taking my time for both. Next time will be a whole lot quicker. thank god for the space, on my last shim placement I goofed and dropped the little bastard. after fishing around for 45 minutes with the magnet it finally came out, think it was inside one of the exhaust springs. All of the right side valves for both front and back were out of spec(tight). and the ones on the left were all over the place, so I shimmed everything to the middle. Still wrapping my brain around this, so when they tighten up its actually the valve seating or deforming into the head versus the shim shrinking. If thats the case wouldn't you want the lash measurement tight so that it would open the valve more when the cam presses it down? | ||
| Northernyankee |
Kruizen, You are on the right path in that the reason for it "tightening" is that the valve seat is compressing. The problem with it tightening is that once it becomes too tight the valve may not close all of the way. Then you end up with flame cutting which is when caused when the valve is slightly open on the compression stroke and that hot gas escapes back into the valve train...and you can imagine what that would do to the engine. So in reality you want all of your valves to be on the loose side of spec that way when it tightens up you will still be safe...its much better to be loose than tight. (Message edited by Northernyankee on November 04, 2014) |
